A truly magical day on the Camino - 47.9km / 29.7miles to Molinaseca

Yes you read that right and before you start telling me how I should slow down and not over do it (which is all great advice) I don't want to hear it. I feel like I am walking on air tonight, stiffly but still walking. I understand that it is important that I don't do too much, too fast else I will injure myself and that would be a tradgedy when I am so near to the end. Though I decided that if the unthinkable should happen then I would just buy a bike or some other form of transport, nothing is stopping me from getting to Santiago. So save all of your well meant and sensible advice, trust me I had it running through my head all day already. So now that is out of the way, I shall explain todays adventure. Really was unlike any other day so far, and not one I shall forget in a hurry.

So I started out in Astorga at 7:30 after a breakfast buffet which put some wind in my sales, I find coffee does that to me. I was expecting to go no further than Rabanal del Camino 13.3miles and I started out very slowly. My right knee was giving me a bit of jip so I decided today was going to be a slow walk. After 5.3km someone came running up behind me, "Did you lose something?" a voice said in a German accent. It was Nadia. I couldn't believe it. She had split the two stages that I combined how I was going to before I opted to just go all the way to Leon. It was such a surprise to see her again and not only that she had found something of mine that I had accidently dropped a day ago, my camera case. I had noticed but decided to not go back, she had come along some time later and found it. She was doing well but she was infested with bedbugs and was covered in bites. I felt so sorry for her. She has thrown away her sleeping bag as despite chemical treatment and washing her bag she is still being eaten alive. I took this chance to do what I am not very good at and express my feelings. I explained how bad I felt after we barely said goodbye and told her how I find it hard to express how I feel, she said I was silly and I should have just said it. I explained why I wanted to go alone and she said she understood it and she herself sees now that she was holding me back and not letting me go. I was happy with this though as familiarity brings security so we held onto each other. It seems that since we split up that both of our Camino's have truly begun. We talked about a lot of coincidences such as how she had met the guy that lives by me and he had mentioned me, and other such things. I also assured her that I had a feeling that we would be seeing David, if not before Santiago then in the city itself. We walked for some time together until she stopped to have a drink and I continued. We said goodbye as if we may never see each other again, I said that I knew we would but she insisted just incase. I got talking to another australian which was nice and I joined him and his group for a drink, strangely one of htem was a guy from Ireland who I had sat next to on the train to St. Jean. The other Australian I had met came by and joined us too.

I got to Rabanal 13.3km for about 11:30 which was far too early to stop so I decided to continue to the next place. I had a bite to eat and a drink and then continued. I decided that if I stopped in the place 5.8km after Rabanal then I would pass the Cruz de Ferro in the dark, this is the place where people bring a stone from home to place at the cross to reprosent their sins or something. I brought a stone from the top of Scafell Pike. I had met Nadia again and we took each others picture here and then I continued. The next place to stay was just a matress on the floor and a hole in the ground for a toilet, very basic so I continued. By this point I had done all the climbing up the mountain and I still felt great, I was hardly hanging around either. I got to Acebo and decided that I felt strong enough to go to the next place, the last place before Molinaseca. My knee had stopped hurting as soon as I met Nadia for the first time and I had felt so strong all day. I decided that I would keep going until I felt that I was too tired to continue, this took me all the way to Riego de Ambros a total of 42.2km and although I was tiring now I felt that I could do the last 5.7km to Molinaseca. This last stretch was all down hill, well 14.2km of it was and parts of it were very steep. It was a real tough stretch to Molinaseca and I felt that I was near to done but I kept on and finally I reached the town. A lovely place, one of the most beautiful places I have come to on the Camino. I saw the two Canadians Brian and Paul who had walked 30 odd Km today and they were amazed when I told them where I had come from.

I got in to the albergue that I had chosen from my book and who is sitting outside with a glass of wine, David. I couldn't believe it and neither could he. He especially couldn't believe how far I had come. We had a brief talk and I told him that I would fill him in after my shower. Unfortunately it was time for dinner and he hadn't booked a menu here so he went into town. We agreed to stay at the same albergue tomorrow so we can catch up. It is weird that although we only knew each other for 3 days it is very good to see him again and I am looking forward to catching up with him. I was absolutely starving, I hadn't eaten properly for such a big walk. I ate lentil soup which was gorgeous, salad - yes salad, tomato, lettuce, carrot, you name it I ate it and it was actually alright with a bit of oil and vinegar on, lots of spaghetti, pineapple and peach. I am stuffed now but I really needed to eat so much, should give me energy for tomorrow.

As I got in so late, just after 6pm, I did not have chance to wash my clothes so I shall be walking in a smelly kit tomorrow. I plan to take it slow tomorrow and enjoy the day, walking 19miles to Villafranca del Bierzo. I doubt the walk will be as beautiful as today though, it really was the most beautiful walk I have done yet. The latter parts gave me a chance to be alone which was lovely and the path led through bushes and trees, it really felt like an adventure or exploration. The scenery was lovely too, rolling mountains and forrests with an autumn colour gradient. Absolutely gorgeous walk and despite the hardship I really enjoyed myself.

The hospitalerio called me crazy when he asked where I had started from today, I don't see the problem if I was sure my body could do it. I will pay tomorrow though with stiff knees and aches but I will take it slow and rest often. Not sure if there is much that I can't do when I set my mind to it, still trying to decide if I am strong or just too damn stubborn to quit.

So no pain, just very stiff. I am off to give myself a massage of the lower limbs and to stretch my muscles. Very tired but absolutely over the moon with todays experience. Up and down 1,505m mountain and 29.7miles. Slightly impressed with myself. I remember struggling to do 17miles to Larassona and feeling worse than this at the end of it. How far I have come. I think I am starting to get the hunger for a physical challenge, what next after the Camino? No greater feeling than achieving something you never thought yourself capable of. I am beginning to wonder what aren't I capable of.