After I did my blog yesterday I relaxed in the garden of the albergue, oh how a beer would have suited the weather and the scenery. I had a gorgeous ice lolly and it was so good that I had another right after. Three Canadian women stayed at the albergue too, they came later in the evening and had their own room. They started in Leon and I gave them some advice and slightly scared them by telling them about the next few stages, they were really nice. The albergue hospitalerio was such a nice lady, kept returning my smiles and just being really friendly. She asked if I wanted to soak my feet and I said no they are fine and just my muscles ache, she then insisted that I take this cream to rub into my muscles before I go to bed and when I wake up. Later when I was eating the pilgrims menu she heard me coughing and brought over a shot to help with my chest, had to turn it down unfortunately. The pilgrims menu was very odd, it was described as traditional. Starters were stewed vegetables, peas and ham or green beans. I went for the stewed vegetables which was nice enough apart from the random fish like meat that was mixed in. I swear there were the heads of some weird eel or something thrown in for good measure. The mains were eel, veal or meat balls. I went for the meat balls and they were lovely, nice chips too.
So I got into bed for about 8:30pm but I found it hard to drop off as id had a nap earlier. It was great having my own room but I think there was football on as I could hear "GOOOOOOOOOAAAAALL GOOOOOAAAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL!" as the continental commentators get a bit excited. I managed to drop off though and woke up at 6:30am, having a half an hour lie in as breakfast wasn't till 7am. Once I was all packed and ready to go the place was still all shut up so I headed off on an empty stomach. I also needed to fill my water bladder at the fountain outside the albergue but it was dry. I was again walking in the dark but the moon was so bright it lit my way, it was such a lovely walk and I flew through the first 5.8km. After 9.6km I found a water fountain and filled up my bag, the australian was also sat nearby and he insisted that I had his bananna as I had missed breakfast. Nothing but lovely people along the camino. After 4.5km more I stopped for a coffee con leche and a croissant with butter and jam, that really got me going. I then continued for the last 16.2km without a break but I felt good. There were two small climbs and a couple of small descents but nothing too major. There was also a really nice girl with a south african accent in the middle of nowhere giving pilgrims juice and some food. I had some lemonade which was gorgeous once you ignored the dead flies floating in it and I had a wholemeal biscuit too, I left a donation and headed off.
Astorga is nice enough, pretty dead though. Apparently it is a public holiday today so lots of places are closed. The albergue is really nice, I have a single bed which is great as it means no climbing into a bunk bed or hacing someone above me. Once I had washed my clothes and myself I went to grab some food, lots of places had finished until 7pm which sucked. I did find one place that serves all day though. One question though. Why is it always so bluddy hard to get just a plate of chips in Spain? I am under the impression that chips are 'Patatas fritas' please correct me if I am wrong, which may very well be the problem here. The first time, I forget where, they bought me some crisps so I just ate them and said nothing. At this place I had a terribly confusing conversation with the barmaid which saw me ordering small roast potatos covered in alioli, and I mean "would you like some roast potatos with your alioli?" covered. Still they were very nice and I am glad I opted for the GRANDE helping, I love garlic so it was all good but even this was too much for me so I had to scrape most of the sauce off. I feel sorry for the people in the beds next to me because I can still taste the stuff now.
Today's 19miles was easy enough, after doing 23miles 19 was never going to give me any problems, well at least not mentally. I did however at one point get random shooting pains in my right knee, it was fine when walking but killed when I stopped and began again. It is all good now though, just slightly tired legs. I am ready for the 13miles of ascent tomorrow. I am really liking these solitary walks again as I am free to do what I want and I can go at whatever pace my legs feel they can manage. I also have started taking a lot more photo's again now I am by myself.
So not much else to report here. Still not sure about Finisterre and Muxia which would be a further 4 days and apparently the best walks of the whole Camino. The thing that is putting me off is the price of my plane tickets as they will be 200euros rather than 80euros (that is bags included) if I don't head home straight away. I need to check out my financial situation and make a decision. I am in no real rush to get home as once I am home the job hunting begins so I should really make the most of this.
That is it, nothing else comes to mind. I am going to put my feet up and decide where to have dinner. Apparently a posh hotel/restaurant does a pilgrims menu but I am not sure if it is a good idea that I go there as I make pilgrims look like they are black tie smart. The hair and face fuzz situation is a bit out of control and my clothes just seem to get filthier with each wash. Then there is the small matter of my sandals, or rather the feet that wear them and the small fact that they resemble those that belong to a leper. At least I smell good, I seem to get through a bar of soap a week and nowhere is open here to get a new one so tomorrow I wash with a paper thin bar.
I am rambling about nothing now so time to go.
Drew, If you can, go to Finisterre and Muxia. It is worth it. They also have busses that you can take from Santiago, for not much, if you don't want to spend the extra days walking. There is something about seeing that west coast of Spain that is awesome. Just my humble opinion. You are doing great!
ReplyDeleteAhhh the walking tomorrow will be lovely! I remember the juice and tea stop so very well! 'Cept in June it was a guy running it! 'Spose they take turns...rather like hospiteleras...!
ReplyDeleteHey Hicko,
ReplyDeleteAbout time family checked in to give you some support. Fair play to all fellow Pilgims that are making comments here. After all they have been there and done that so to speak. So I hope you can take their comments on board.
You know what I would say about Finistere and Muxia ----- DO IT ,WHY .... BECAUSE IT'S THERE & WHY NO. 2 [& MORE POTENT] YOU SAID YOURSELF ABOVE IT'S THE BEST WALK OF THE CAMINO.
So what more is there to say? I know you've got to walk it and we haven't but I've noticed now about your walking fitness is better than ever and you are just gobbling the miles up.
OH! HOW YOU HAVE CHANGED, [From the start of the walk] YOU NOW CONSIDER 13 MILES AS JUST A DAY OFF, LOL.
If it's money your worried about , then don't.
Let us wire you some money [you'll have to tell us how and we will do it]; it's not giving up your 'self sufficiiency' it's us giving you a last great service [like over the previous uni years] before we finally lose you to THE GREAT WIDE WORLD and a self sufficiency CAREER.
When will you be Finistere & Muxia way again [like never] DO NOT MAKE MY 'TAJ MAHAL' mistake or you'll be regretting it for the rest of your life just like me.
PLEASE LET US DO THIS LAST SERVICE [WE'RE LOSING OUR LITTLE BOY {ALL 6'1" OF HIM , lol}], IF WONGA IS THE PROBLEM.
lIKE I mentioned earlier have you thought about a bus or train back to Santander OR Bilbao to get a boat back to PLYMOUTH OR PORTSMOUTH respectively.This is about a day on the boat , chance for a rest & you'll go thro the notorious 'Bay of Biscay' [You'll be ok because your a 'salty sailor' LOL but if it was me or your sister we would be feeding the fishes lol].I don't know if its any cheaper though [it should be]. Then you can get a train from Plymouth or Portsmouth to Brum.
It's just an idea.
It's good how you are into Veggies now and coffee lol.
Amazed u set off really early without breakfast and water supply for the day.I couldn't do that.The early I could do, but the rest would be essential for me.
Great that you are surrounded by very nice people [Perhaps there is an opening for a charitable Podiatrist to give his services for free up and down the Camino for ever more LOL].
Spanish food sounds an acquired taste.
Buen viajes!!
Take care [lol, walking off at 6.30 in the morning, in the dark desn't sound like care LOL].
Mucho Amor,
PADRE XXX
PS. WHAT'S WRONG WITH RAMBLING? I DO IT ALL THE TIME LOL. XXX
ReplyDeleteDon't forget: 'Ink falls like dew on a thought that makes 100's perhaps 1,000's think'. SO RAMBLE, IT MAY BE PEARLS OF WISDOM MAN.
I'M MISSING MY SPURS BUDDY MAN AND THERE IS TOO MUCH QUIET HERE MAN, NO 24/7 GUNFIRE COMING FROM YOUR BEDROOM!!!
AS CASSIDY WOULD SAY TAKE CARE BOICEY!!