Good company on the way to Villafranca del Bierzo - 19.2miles

Pretty long one again. Sorry for waffling. Maybe print it off and read it before bed.

I woke up at 6:00 this morning as breakfast was at 6:30. I hadn't slept very well, I think it was a combination between a very full stomach and so much exercise. My legs felt fine though, the odd slight ache but nothing as bad as I should be feeling. I just hope it is not a case of the aches hitting me a day late, this would not be fun heading up O'Cebreiro. That said, I don't mind the ascents as you can really throw yourself into the mountain and speed up them. With the descent you have to take it a lot slower as the path is usually quite dangerous, this kills the thighs and knees.

Breakfast was ok, 3euro for two pieces of toast and a coffee. I was just grateful to get something inside of me though as I felt that my stomach had made light work of last nights haul of food in order to repair my poor legs. Again I had jam, really starting to get a taste for all this weird food now. I like to try more things now, who would have thought that salad wouldn't kill me. Crazy.

So I set off in the dark, making myself go slow despite feeling good. I knew that I owed that much to my body after yesterday. The waymarks out of Molinaseca were terrible and I had a hard time, as did others, of getting out of the place. Finally I was on the way into Ponferrada, slowly but surely. Paul and Brian passed me, telling me that I needed to up the pace. Brian said he was 65 and was flying. Paul said that my 23 year old knees must be feeling it after yesterday, he tapped on his special knee mechanism (he has no knee cartilage and it keeps the bones locked in place) and said not to worry as they have the technology to keep me going. They are really friendly guys. I love Americans but I must admit that I think the Canadians are just begining to edge it, sorry if there are any Americans reading! Blame the very anti-english American I met on the camino, the only person so far I have not liked.

Anyway. I resisted the urge to rise to the bait and I continued slowly. I was proud of my ability to do this, I find that I surprise myself in someway each day. Some small like this, some huge like yesterday. Ponferrada was terrible to navigate and I got slightly lost, bluddy big citites, but I found out later that I wasn't the only one. I stopped for a coke as I needed the toilet, my choice of establishment was possibly not the best as it was slightly too posh for a pilgrim such as me. I didn't care but I got the feeling that my presence was not cared for. I finally fought my way out of the city and someone caught me up, David. We then walked the rest of the day together, finally catching up. It was a lovely walk and great fun. He had been walking with a girl from Brighton who I met in Roncesvalles, which seems another lifetime ago. He is good fun, and he made me laugh by picking any and every fruit off the trees he walks past. Despite it being against my morals David seemed quite happy to do it. I think he ate a grocery stores worth of fruit including some very strange apple things which I suspect were not apples at all. We stopped for lunch in another lovely town, I had a pizza to completely contrast against yesterdays meager lunch.

The walk was easy enough, a few ascents and descents, but these molehills were nothing compared to that which I battled yesterday. Today was probably my 3rd favourite walk so far. Yesterdays two stages were my favourite, then the Pyrenees which I split into two stages but am counting as one. The scenery was beautiful, wine fields for as far as the eye could see and mountains providing a suitably breathtaking backdrop. I just couldn't stop commenting on the view, it really was beautiful. I have a feeling that these last stages are going to be the best of the Camino if they continue the precident. I am very excited to walk them and I have decided to stick to the stages in my book now, take it slow and really enjoy the walks. 8 stages till I reach Santiago, so close I can smell the incense.

Villafranca is a gorgeous town, another of my favourites along the camino I think. The albergue we are staying at is very clean and modern but slightly lame. There are no hand washing facilities for clothes, only a 7 euro charge to have your stuff cleaned. I decided to stick one to the man and walk for a 2nd day in a smelly kit. The crowds of the Camino shall part before me like the red sea before moses. Also no internet so I have scoured the town for internet just to let you all know that I managed todays long stage ok after yesterday. I know one person who likes to worry, so consider this entry just for you. The funny part was somehow entering Villafranca before Paul and Brian after all their comments about me being too slow today.

The walk tomorrow takes me up to 1,300meters and over a total distance of 30.1km or 18.7miles and the next day takes us down again. Don't worry you will not be logging on to see that I have done the mountain in one day and done 32miles. I am looking forward to this walk, the views should be amazing. Tomorrow we enter Galacia, people have told me that this is where the magic on the Camino begins. For me it has already begun, I am not sure that I can expect much more than I have already witnessed.

I plan to walk alone again tomorrow, probably meeting David at the end of the day. I have a feeling that the next 7 days are going to be quite special. Well saying that, the next 11 days as I have worked out that by cutting two stages I will just about be able to afford to go to Finisterre and Muxia. I just can't get enough of this walking business now, maybe I should walk home! Very excited to be able to walk to the sea, my boots which were dark blue are now red with dust. I love these boots but they shall need to be thrown away at the end of the Camino as I have already worn the heels down to the inside of the shoe. I must be a sloppy walker. I plan to buy myself a pair of the same boots though, really have done me well. I actually decided to send an email to North Face to congratulate them on a good pair of boots. Maybe if I mention the heel ware they will send me a free pair?

Oh I also forgot to mention an experience I had yesterday. As I was walking up the mountain in a solitary part of the path I rounded a corner to find a girl walking in her underwear. She was walking in front of me for a good few minutes and I was desperately trying to inspect the floor before me. They then stopped and she was very friendly, she was from Scotland. We talked briefly and I had to have the strenth of a saint to maintain eye contact with her, lets just say that walking in underwear does a very bad job of keeping everything where it should be. I have seen some people walking in some crazy things but I think this wins so far. Very friendly and nice girl but a strange atmosphere so I raced away from them after we shook hands. Crazy.

Oh and there is a guy doing the Camino on a unicycle, I am yet to meet him though.

Bit of a long one again, they usually are when I am in good spirits but I apologise. Keep the comments coming.



@ksam - I intend to do just that thank you. I also expect to be walking with socks on my hands in two days time. I can't help but think back to one of your previous comments when you said that I would be seeing Nadia again. Who knew that you would be so right, David too.