Only of interest to the family I suppose but as this is my only means of communication here it is.
I managed to get a room for two nights at an old convent or something, right next to the cathedral on the 4th floor (thanks ksam). It was only 23euro a night too so I am over the moon, great price for a private room and right in the middle of all the action. It is luxury really, I nearly cried with happiness at the sight of a real towel in the bathroom. Still a bunkbed but at least I get the bottom, picture me struggling to the top these past few days after 29miles when I can barely stand.
Unrelated for a second. Does anyone know if you can get Aquarius drink in England? Absolutely hooked on the stuff, especially the lemon one.
I fly back on Friday at 10am, landing at 11am. So tomorrow I may get a bus to finisterre or I may just bum around, this internet cafe is quite affordable. The pain is that I then have to wait around at the airport until 3pm so I can catch a national express bus back to Tamworth which arrives at 8:45pm at the bus depot. I will jump on a bus so I should be knocking on my frontdoor by about 9:20pm. I hope someone is in!
Happier now all that is sorted. I did a spot of shopping and bought myself a camino tshirt. I wanted one anyway but the bonus is that is saves me having to do any washing.
Wednesday, 19 October 2011
Quest Complete: Walk 490.3miles from St. Jean to Santiago
So I am here and I have done it. Not sure how I feel yet as I have not had time to let it all sink in, my head is crammed full of thoughts and I think I have been through every emotion possibly upon arriving here. So to fill you in on the last two days.
I last posted in Palas de Rei and the next day I walked 29miles to Arca do Pino. It was a very difficult walk as I already had the previous days 29miles in my bones. It was the hardest day yet actually but it was nice to finally have a hard time of it in a way, how can it be a pilgrimage without a bit of pain. The pain came from my aches just simply getting that bad, just tired jelly legs. Where my boots are degrading they have given me a blister on the heel of my right foot which means it hurts to set my foot down. After awhile of just setting my foot down and ignoring the pain I don't really feel it anymore but I kept catching myself subconsiously walking on the ball of my right foot. This is where the real pain came from as this seemed to really tire my right ankle and knee. My right calf was also in a bit of pain. I carried on, trying to use my foot properly but it was a losing battle as once I began to admire the scenery I started walking funny again.
So I borke my camera too. The previous night it managed to jump off the top of my bunk, suicidal I think. There is not a scratch on it but I think there is an internal break as it just wont capture images properly. I kept trying to be positive, telling myself that accidents happen, at least I still have all my images and at least I could still walk but really I was gutted. I bought a desposable camera to try and catalogue my entry into Santiago. Bag of sh*t. I missed so many good photo opportunities. I don't really remember much from that day, think I was just really in a negative place due to my camera and my troubles. I really wanted to just get to Santaigo and get home but it was hard to walk my usual pace so I had to settle for a slow crawl. I kept telling myself, "It doesn't matter how slow I go I will just walk until I get there and I will get there eventually". I didn't see much of the town as I went straight to the albergue and only left to go to the shop nextdoor. The bunk I was on was literally falling apart, I darent move on it.
So I woke up at 5am, the plan was to slip out quietly and avoid the crowds. It worked, too well actually. The first few hours were through some really dense eucalyptus forrests. They were pitch black and my torch was on its last legs. This was the creepiest part of the camino by far. Things falling off trees. Animals making noises. My eyes seeing things that weren't there. It was all fun though. After awhile my right leg started to give me some trouble again, becoming as hard as yesterday to walk. It also began to rain! I had gone all this way without a drop and now on my last day it rains. I would not be beaten. Overheating I took off my jumper and continued in a t-shirt, no need for my poncho. So finally I made it into Sandiago. Not sure if I am underwhelmed. In a way I guess I am as it is just another city to me, and the cathedral (Lichfield's impresses me more) is just another religious building. The mass was just another Spanish ceremony, with as far as I am concerned, odd traditions. That said, they swing a huge incense burner from the roof really high and fast, that was cool. I went to see St. James' casket after the mass and then I came here to look at flights. I have already grabbed my compestela (certificate) and I decided against Finisterre and Muxia. I am not sure when or how I am getting back yet but I am about to explore all options.
So I really need to think about it all really. The whole point of this pilgrimage was not religious or to get to Santiago, especially towards the end when it became a pilgrimage to get home. I could have been walking in any country and towards any end point, completely cliche but it really was the journey that I was interested in. The journey has mainly been a good one until these last two days, and it certainly hasn't been for nothing. I have grown as a person, not spiritually as many claim to but I am a more confident and strong person. The physical improvement can't be over looked either. I am not entirely sure what I was looking for with this trip, I didn't have a question which I sought an answer to. I think it was just an accessible way to travel. Now the reason behind this want to travel I guess comes down to wanting to 'find' myself who am i, what do I want etc and I think in that respect it has been a success. I have always known that I have these hidden depths that I only expose when I am good and ready but it is good to see how much I am capable of. I think I have changed for the better, maybe only slightly but there has been a change.
So would I do it again? He types as his right calf muscle throbs. I certianly would and I intend to, I was planning it yesterday to try and escape the pain. I think it will be a different trip though. Not one of solitute where I aim to improve myself as a person or to understand myself and what direction I should take with my life, but a more lighthearted one where I can go with a friend or my father (may have to wait until retirement kicks in for that) and not take it too seriously. I loved every minute of the camino, even these last two days, when I admit a little bit of cursing did slip out. I think next time I will try to stop and smell the roses a little more, that is something I have had highlighted to myself, my impatience. Once I wanted to be home I was unable to walk the short stages in my book and wait for it to arrive, I had to go out and get it. I think next time I will take some of home with me in the form of a friend and stay in contact with home more than just through a blog. I never knew I would be one to get homesick but I guess I am now, only after a month too but as I have said before walking everday really stretches time out. I barely rememeber home.
I am rambling now. I am sure I will post another one or two posts when I have had time to reflect more. I appreciate all of the help and support you have given me, especially these last few days.
Gutted my camera was unable to capture Santiago. I will have to scan the prints I get when I develop my disposeable.
I have learnt lots of little lessons and lots of things about myself. I think I need time to think and get my head clear now. I know, a camino would provide me with the perfect opportunity to clear my head. Back to St. Jean! Just kidding.
I last posted in Palas de Rei and the next day I walked 29miles to Arca do Pino. It was a very difficult walk as I already had the previous days 29miles in my bones. It was the hardest day yet actually but it was nice to finally have a hard time of it in a way, how can it be a pilgrimage without a bit of pain. The pain came from my aches just simply getting that bad, just tired jelly legs. Where my boots are degrading they have given me a blister on the heel of my right foot which means it hurts to set my foot down. After awhile of just setting my foot down and ignoring the pain I don't really feel it anymore but I kept catching myself subconsiously walking on the ball of my right foot. This is where the real pain came from as this seemed to really tire my right ankle and knee. My right calf was also in a bit of pain. I carried on, trying to use my foot properly but it was a losing battle as once I began to admire the scenery I started walking funny again.
So I borke my camera too. The previous night it managed to jump off the top of my bunk, suicidal I think. There is not a scratch on it but I think there is an internal break as it just wont capture images properly. I kept trying to be positive, telling myself that accidents happen, at least I still have all my images and at least I could still walk but really I was gutted. I bought a desposable camera to try and catalogue my entry into Santiago. Bag of sh*t. I missed so many good photo opportunities. I don't really remember much from that day, think I was just really in a negative place due to my camera and my troubles. I really wanted to just get to Santaigo and get home but it was hard to walk my usual pace so I had to settle for a slow crawl. I kept telling myself, "It doesn't matter how slow I go I will just walk until I get there and I will get there eventually". I didn't see much of the town as I went straight to the albergue and only left to go to the shop nextdoor. The bunk I was on was literally falling apart, I darent move on it.
So I woke up at 5am, the plan was to slip out quietly and avoid the crowds. It worked, too well actually. The first few hours were through some really dense eucalyptus forrests. They were pitch black and my torch was on its last legs. This was the creepiest part of the camino by far. Things falling off trees. Animals making noises. My eyes seeing things that weren't there. It was all fun though. After awhile my right leg started to give me some trouble again, becoming as hard as yesterday to walk. It also began to rain! I had gone all this way without a drop and now on my last day it rains. I would not be beaten. Overheating I took off my jumper and continued in a t-shirt, no need for my poncho. So finally I made it into Sandiago. Not sure if I am underwhelmed. In a way I guess I am as it is just another city to me, and the cathedral (Lichfield's impresses me more) is just another religious building. The mass was just another Spanish ceremony, with as far as I am concerned, odd traditions. That said, they swing a huge incense burner from the roof really high and fast, that was cool. I went to see St. James' casket after the mass and then I came here to look at flights. I have already grabbed my compestela (certificate) and I decided against Finisterre and Muxia. I am not sure when or how I am getting back yet but I am about to explore all options.
So I really need to think about it all really. The whole point of this pilgrimage was not religious or to get to Santiago, especially towards the end when it became a pilgrimage to get home. I could have been walking in any country and towards any end point, completely cliche but it really was the journey that I was interested in. The journey has mainly been a good one until these last two days, and it certainly hasn't been for nothing. I have grown as a person, not spiritually as many claim to but I am a more confident and strong person. The physical improvement can't be over looked either. I am not entirely sure what I was looking for with this trip, I didn't have a question which I sought an answer to. I think it was just an accessible way to travel. Now the reason behind this want to travel I guess comes down to wanting to 'find' myself who am i, what do I want etc and I think in that respect it has been a success. I have always known that I have these hidden depths that I only expose when I am good and ready but it is good to see how much I am capable of. I think I have changed for the better, maybe only slightly but there has been a change.
So would I do it again? He types as his right calf muscle throbs. I certianly would and I intend to, I was planning it yesterday to try and escape the pain. I think it will be a different trip though. Not one of solitute where I aim to improve myself as a person or to understand myself and what direction I should take with my life, but a more lighthearted one where I can go with a friend or my father (may have to wait until retirement kicks in for that) and not take it too seriously. I loved every minute of the camino, even these last two days, when I admit a little bit of cursing did slip out. I think next time I will try to stop and smell the roses a little more, that is something I have had highlighted to myself, my impatience. Once I wanted to be home I was unable to walk the short stages in my book and wait for it to arrive, I had to go out and get it. I think next time I will take some of home with me in the form of a friend and stay in contact with home more than just through a blog. I never knew I would be one to get homesick but I guess I am now, only after a month too but as I have said before walking everday really stretches time out. I barely rememeber home.
I am rambling now. I am sure I will post another one or two posts when I have had time to reflect more. I appreciate all of the help and support you have given me, especially these last few days.
Gutted my camera was unable to capture Santiago. I will have to scan the prints I get when I develop my disposeable.
I have learnt lots of little lessons and lots of things about myself. I think I need time to think and get my head clear now. I know, a camino would provide me with the perfect opportunity to clear my head. Back to St. Jean! Just kidding.
Monday, 17 October 2011
29.3 miles to Palas de Rei - Only 42.3miles left to Santiago
So I decided last night whilst eating a beautiful pilgrims menu that I was going to combine another two stages. As much as I am enjoying this walk I just feel like I am ready to go home now. I plan to hit Santiago on Wednesday and then decide about Finisterre. I am either going to walk it and get a bus back on Saturday, hanging about the Cathedral at 7pm to surprise David and Nadia or I am going to jump on a plane Thursday or Friday, possibly visiting Finisterre by bus. I just feel that each day doesn't bring anything new. I find that the nearer we get to Santiago the less considerate and unfriendly people are. The Camino was absolutely packed this morning though I did accidently oversleep until 7am. I had to really race along to out walk the crowds. That is the good thing about doing a long day as by the time I start the second stage of the two I am combining, the Camino is virtually empty. A downside is that the Albergues are often full when I turn up at 6pm, but I manage to find somewhere.
The food was great last night, as I said it smelt. I gave it 6* out of 5, it was that good. Minestroni soup, meatballs and chips and some triffle thing. It all seemed home made. I am unsure why I was the only one having the menu. So I decided that I am done here now and I just want to get to Santiago. So tomorrow the plan is to walk 29.7miles to Arco do Pino, if I am up to it. Then Wednesday I will leave early and stroll 12.5miles into Santiago. I looked at the distances I have done over the last few days:
19.4
29.7
19.2
18.7
24.8
29.3
Pretty good going.
So today. As I overslept I ate my breakfast as I walked which was a half eaten ham and cheese Bocadillo from yesterday. The Camino was so crowded, counting 17 people right in front of me which I had to squeeze past and over take. I tried to enjoy the moonlight walk through a lovely forrest but it was hard with the crowds. Again everywhere smelt like sh*t which was lovely. I came across a lovely little cat sat on a wall, I think he had a home as it looked well fed and clean. He was such a pest! He loved being stroked and he climbed up the front of me and sat on my backpack. I took a few pictures and then realised he was chewing on the collar of my fleece and on the tassles of my bag. Took me ages to get him off. I would post the pictures but this place is closing soon. They will be among all the others when I get home. The only other exciting thing was bumping into someone from Orisson. Jane the South African who was walking with her son Mike, not sure if I mentioned them. I hadn't seen her since Puerte la Reina. Mike left her at Burgos as he only had so long but she planned to go all the way. After 400km she got bad tendinitus (sp) and so got a taxi to Sarria and is walking the last 100km over 10 days. It is such a shame, I hope she makes it. She is in so much pain but she battles on. Again it made me think how lucky I have been.
I stopped for some lunch after 30.2km and had a massive plate of chips, fried egg, bacon and pork. It was great and gave me the energy to go on. Not much to report about the walk. It went through some gorgeous forrests but a lot of it was along the road. I didn't really talk to anyone today. Had a lot of brief conversations but nothing further. The first Albergue I went to was full and I had to wait about 15-20minutes for someone to turn up to check me in at the next one. Very basic, one toilet between a room of 8. The girl on the bunk behind me keeps putting her rucksack against the ladder and putting her jumper over the rungs. I had to move her jumper to climb up but she has put it back. One example of how people just don't seem to be aware of others. It was never like this before, maybe I happened to be walking the same stages as a lot of nice thoughtful pilgrims but I have now left them behind.
So that is it. All being well I will be posting from Arco do Pino. My last long walk before Santiago and even if I go to Finisterre the longest will be 19miles. So close now, strange that it is nearly finished. Feels like I have been walking for months. Will be strange to go back to normality, will miss walking rediculous distances each day but as I said, I am ready to go home now.
The food was great last night, as I said it smelt. I gave it 6* out of 5, it was that good. Minestroni soup, meatballs and chips and some triffle thing. It all seemed home made. I am unsure why I was the only one having the menu. So I decided that I am done here now and I just want to get to Santiago. So tomorrow the plan is to walk 29.7miles to Arco do Pino, if I am up to it. Then Wednesday I will leave early and stroll 12.5miles into Santiago. I looked at the distances I have done over the last few days:
19.4
29.7
19.2
18.7
24.8
29.3
Pretty good going.
So today. As I overslept I ate my breakfast as I walked which was a half eaten ham and cheese Bocadillo from yesterday. The Camino was so crowded, counting 17 people right in front of me which I had to squeeze past and over take. I tried to enjoy the moonlight walk through a lovely forrest but it was hard with the crowds. Again everywhere smelt like sh*t which was lovely. I came across a lovely little cat sat on a wall, I think he had a home as it looked well fed and clean. He was such a pest! He loved being stroked and he climbed up the front of me and sat on my backpack. I took a few pictures and then realised he was chewing on the collar of my fleece and on the tassles of my bag. Took me ages to get him off. I would post the pictures but this place is closing soon. They will be among all the others when I get home. The only other exciting thing was bumping into someone from Orisson. Jane the South African who was walking with her son Mike, not sure if I mentioned them. I hadn't seen her since Puerte la Reina. Mike left her at Burgos as he only had so long but she planned to go all the way. After 400km she got bad tendinitus (sp) and so got a taxi to Sarria and is walking the last 100km over 10 days. It is such a shame, I hope she makes it. She is in so much pain but she battles on. Again it made me think how lucky I have been.
I stopped for some lunch after 30.2km and had a massive plate of chips, fried egg, bacon and pork. It was great and gave me the energy to go on. Not much to report about the walk. It went through some gorgeous forrests but a lot of it was along the road. I didn't really talk to anyone today. Had a lot of brief conversations but nothing further. The first Albergue I went to was full and I had to wait about 15-20minutes for someone to turn up to check me in at the next one. Very basic, one toilet between a room of 8. The girl on the bunk behind me keeps putting her rucksack against the ladder and putting her jumper over the rungs. I had to move her jumper to climb up but she has put it back. One example of how people just don't seem to be aware of others. It was never like this before, maybe I happened to be walking the same stages as a lot of nice thoughtful pilgrims but I have now left them behind.
So that is it. All being well I will be posting from Arco do Pino. My last long walk before Santiago and even if I go to Finisterre the longest will be 19miles. So close now, strange that it is nearly finished. Feels like I have been walking for months. Will be strange to go back to normality, will miss walking rediculous distances each day but as I said, I am ready to go home now.
Sunday, 16 October 2011
Happy chappy in Sarria
Yes so I shouldn't be here yet but I will get to that, I am afraid that I got the hunger for another long one. I just seem to enjoy these days more, it is a nice challenge and I like arriving late. So I have two days to update you on, I will try and keep it short as I am hungry.
So saturday I did 18.7miles from Villafranca up to O'cebreiro which was a very tough but enjoyable walki. I found it steeper than the Pyrenees to be honest. I really enjoyed the walk, great views and despite walking alongside a road for most the day the views were great. The countryside in Galicia is very much like england, very green and it stinks of sh*t. I passed through some remarkable little villages, places I could imagine living and I felt like I was walking back home, it was great. It is tough to remember all of the details of this walk as it was a day ago and my diary is upstairs. I enjoyed the steep climb, the tactic I prefer is to really attack the climb and to fly up it. This was great fun, jumping over rocks and battling against the climb. My legs felt fine but It was a real challenge for my cardio fitness, I was pouring sweat and out of breath but it felt great. The path led through trees which was lovely but breathing was hard as I was attacked by flies and the stench of the cow sh*t that covered the floor. Not far from the top the presence of all the sh*t was explained as I rounded a corner to see 6 cows being herded down towards me by a man with a stick and a dog. I went back round the corner where it was slightly wider and stood on the edge of the path, I did panic slightly though when the cows came right at me and nearly knocked me off. I find most places now stink of sh*t, especially the smaller villages which are basically just farms. The smell really attacks your nostrils. Finally I got to the top and to O'cebreiro which was a lovely little place but very touristy (just making up words now), it was a small taster of Santiago I felt. The albergue was nice enough, no doors on the shower cubicles and the window gave the people outside a great view into the showers. I felt good afterwards, just stiff bum muscles and stiff back of my thighs. I ate with David, Rose and Nadia which was nice, we had a good laugh. Apparently I don't need to drink to be hilarious. We all agreed that on Saturday we will all meet outside the cathedral in Santiago at 7pm, we don't have to but it gives us a way of meeting if we want to.
So this morning I set off on an empty stomach and in the light of the moon. It was a lovely walk, through creepy dark forrests and along tracks that gave a great view over the mountains. I was walking alone again which was great. I always start off slowly, being overtaken by everyone and then about 9:30 I wake up and pick up the pace, often catching everyone back up. I stopped and got a coffee and some pastries which helped. I don't remember exactly when but at some point I began walking with a girl from Holland, we talked about Tottenham's wonderful talisman from the Netherlands. She was a nice girl and had started in Leon but she had walked it before. We had lunch together at Triacastela 13.2miles which was todays stage but it was only 12pm so I decided to go on, as did Linda (the girl from Holland). We got talking to a guy called John from England, we ended up walking together for some time as we seemed to have a lot in common. He had been travelling for 4 months or something and was a really intelligent guy, very nice too. He stopped for lunch so I waited for Linda and we carried on. I am loving meeting all these new people, it is so unlike me to just speak to people. Even if this confidence is hte only thing I take home to England it will be a great prize. A few km after Triacastela we were terrorised by an idiot on a crossbike, this really shook Linda up as she had been hit by one back in Holland. She had a really bad time of it, barely escaping brain damage and really struggling to return to normality. This left her visibly shaken and I could tell she wasn't happy. I tried to comfort her but it was difficult, I am not a psychologist. She began to walk really slow and as much as I wanted to shoot off I wanted to stay and make sure she was ok. Eventually she said that I should go on so she can sit and 'contemplate' so she can feel better, she is into meditation and holistic therapy etc so maybe this is what she meant. I did as she said and I sped off to Sarria. I had lost about an hour and a half but it was nice to walk with someone new, just a shame it had to end like that. I am sure I will see her along the way, just hope she is ok. My water soon ran out and it was a very hot day, passing through more farmvillages I was unable to find any water and being a Sunday most cafes were closed. I finally found one that was open and drank two bottles of Aquarius (some weird drink Linda was drinking, was quite nice), a coke and a litre and a half of water. I really needed that. I finally reached Sarria after a total of 40km/24.8miles and it felt good. I had to climb about a billion steps to get to the albergue which was fantastic. The albergue is nice, expensive for what is provided though (10euro for very basic facilities but the cooking smells great). I am in a huge bed in a room with a bunk bed sleeping a girl from London and one from America. They are nice.
Tomorrow I will do 13.9miles to Potomarin. I plan to take it easy (I say this every time) and relax. I have left David and Nadia behind but it was the right thing to do. I have learnt not to get too attached to the same people as it becomes too comfortable. I like being on my own and I meet a lot more interesting people this way.
Oh and I ate cabbage soup which was filled with all kinds of vegetables. Go me.
So saturday I did 18.7miles from Villafranca up to O'cebreiro which was a very tough but enjoyable walki. I found it steeper than the Pyrenees to be honest. I really enjoyed the walk, great views and despite walking alongside a road for most the day the views were great. The countryside in Galicia is very much like england, very green and it stinks of sh*t. I passed through some remarkable little villages, places I could imagine living and I felt like I was walking back home, it was great. It is tough to remember all of the details of this walk as it was a day ago and my diary is upstairs. I enjoyed the steep climb, the tactic I prefer is to really attack the climb and to fly up it. This was great fun, jumping over rocks and battling against the climb. My legs felt fine but It was a real challenge for my cardio fitness, I was pouring sweat and out of breath but it felt great. The path led through trees which was lovely but breathing was hard as I was attacked by flies and the stench of the cow sh*t that covered the floor. Not far from the top the presence of all the sh*t was explained as I rounded a corner to see 6 cows being herded down towards me by a man with a stick and a dog. I went back round the corner where it was slightly wider and stood on the edge of the path, I did panic slightly though when the cows came right at me and nearly knocked me off. I find most places now stink of sh*t, especially the smaller villages which are basically just farms. The smell really attacks your nostrils. Finally I got to the top and to O'cebreiro which was a lovely little place but very touristy (just making up words now), it was a small taster of Santiago I felt. The albergue was nice enough, no doors on the shower cubicles and the window gave the people outside a great view into the showers. I felt good afterwards, just stiff bum muscles and stiff back of my thighs. I ate with David, Rose and Nadia which was nice, we had a good laugh. Apparently I don't need to drink to be hilarious. We all agreed that on Saturday we will all meet outside the cathedral in Santiago at 7pm, we don't have to but it gives us a way of meeting if we want to.
So this morning I set off on an empty stomach and in the light of the moon. It was a lovely walk, through creepy dark forrests and along tracks that gave a great view over the mountains. I was walking alone again which was great. I always start off slowly, being overtaken by everyone and then about 9:30 I wake up and pick up the pace, often catching everyone back up. I stopped and got a coffee and some pastries which helped. I don't remember exactly when but at some point I began walking with a girl from Holland, we talked about Tottenham's wonderful talisman from the Netherlands. She was a nice girl and had started in Leon but she had walked it before. We had lunch together at Triacastela 13.2miles which was todays stage but it was only 12pm so I decided to go on, as did Linda (the girl from Holland). We got talking to a guy called John from England, we ended up walking together for some time as we seemed to have a lot in common. He had been travelling for 4 months or something and was a really intelligent guy, very nice too. He stopped for lunch so I waited for Linda and we carried on. I am loving meeting all these new people, it is so unlike me to just speak to people. Even if this confidence is hte only thing I take home to England it will be a great prize. A few km after Triacastela we were terrorised by an idiot on a crossbike, this really shook Linda up as she had been hit by one back in Holland. She had a really bad time of it, barely escaping brain damage and really struggling to return to normality. This left her visibly shaken and I could tell she wasn't happy. I tried to comfort her but it was difficult, I am not a psychologist. She began to walk really slow and as much as I wanted to shoot off I wanted to stay and make sure she was ok. Eventually she said that I should go on so she can sit and 'contemplate' so she can feel better, she is into meditation and holistic therapy etc so maybe this is what she meant. I did as she said and I sped off to Sarria. I had lost about an hour and a half but it was nice to walk with someone new, just a shame it had to end like that. I am sure I will see her along the way, just hope she is ok. My water soon ran out and it was a very hot day, passing through more farmvillages I was unable to find any water and being a Sunday most cafes were closed. I finally found one that was open and drank two bottles of Aquarius (some weird drink Linda was drinking, was quite nice), a coke and a litre and a half of water. I really needed that. I finally reached Sarria after a total of 40km/24.8miles and it felt good. I had to climb about a billion steps to get to the albergue which was fantastic. The albergue is nice, expensive for what is provided though (10euro for very basic facilities but the cooking smells great). I am in a huge bed in a room with a bunk bed sleeping a girl from London and one from America. They are nice.
Tomorrow I will do 13.9miles to Potomarin. I plan to take it easy (I say this every time) and relax. I have left David and Nadia behind but it was the right thing to do. I have learnt not to get too attached to the same people as it becomes too comfortable. I like being on my own and I meet a lot more interesting people this way.
Oh and I ate cabbage soup which was filled with all kinds of vegetables. Go me.
Friday, 14 October 2011
Good company on the way to Villafranca del Bierzo - 19.2miles
Pretty long one again. Sorry for waffling. Maybe print it off and read it before bed.
I woke up at 6:00 this morning as breakfast was at 6:30. I hadn't slept very well, I think it was a combination between a very full stomach and so much exercise. My legs felt fine though, the odd slight ache but nothing as bad as I should be feeling. I just hope it is not a case of the aches hitting me a day late, this would not be fun heading up O'Cebreiro. That said, I don't mind the ascents as you can really throw yourself into the mountain and speed up them. With the descent you have to take it a lot slower as the path is usually quite dangerous, this kills the thighs and knees.
Breakfast was ok, 3euro for two pieces of toast and a coffee. I was just grateful to get something inside of me though as I felt that my stomach had made light work of last nights haul of food in order to repair my poor legs. Again I had jam, really starting to get a taste for all this weird food now. I like to try more things now, who would have thought that salad wouldn't kill me. Crazy.
So I set off in the dark, making myself go slow despite feeling good. I knew that I owed that much to my body after yesterday. The waymarks out of Molinaseca were terrible and I had a hard time, as did others, of getting out of the place. Finally I was on the way into Ponferrada, slowly but surely. Paul and Brian passed me, telling me that I needed to up the pace. Brian said he was 65 and was flying. Paul said that my 23 year old knees must be feeling it after yesterday, he tapped on his special knee mechanism (he has no knee cartilage and it keeps the bones locked in place) and said not to worry as they have the technology to keep me going. They are really friendly guys. I love Americans but I must admit that I think the Canadians are just begining to edge it, sorry if there are any Americans reading! Blame the very anti-english American I met on the camino, the only person so far I have not liked.
Anyway. I resisted the urge to rise to the bait and I continued slowly. I was proud of my ability to do this, I find that I surprise myself in someway each day. Some small like this, some huge like yesterday. Ponferrada was terrible to navigate and I got slightly lost, bluddy big citites, but I found out later that I wasn't the only one. I stopped for a coke as I needed the toilet, my choice of establishment was possibly not the best as it was slightly too posh for a pilgrim such as me. I didn't care but I got the feeling that my presence was not cared for. I finally fought my way out of the city and someone caught me up, David. We then walked the rest of the day together, finally catching up. It was a lovely walk and great fun. He had been walking with a girl from Brighton who I met in Roncesvalles, which seems another lifetime ago. He is good fun, and he made me laugh by picking any and every fruit off the trees he walks past. Despite it being against my morals David seemed quite happy to do it. I think he ate a grocery stores worth of fruit including some very strange apple things which I suspect were not apples at all. We stopped for lunch in another lovely town, I had a pizza to completely contrast against yesterdays meager lunch.
The walk was easy enough, a few ascents and descents, but these molehills were nothing compared to that which I battled yesterday. Today was probably my 3rd favourite walk so far. Yesterdays two stages were my favourite, then the Pyrenees which I split into two stages but am counting as one. The scenery was beautiful, wine fields for as far as the eye could see and mountains providing a suitably breathtaking backdrop. I just couldn't stop commenting on the view, it really was beautiful. I have a feeling that these last stages are going to be the best of the Camino if they continue the precident. I am very excited to walk them and I have decided to stick to the stages in my book now, take it slow and really enjoy the walks. 8 stages till I reach Santiago, so close I can smell the incense.
Villafranca is a gorgeous town, another of my favourites along the camino I think. The albergue we are staying at is very clean and modern but slightly lame. There are no hand washing facilities for clothes, only a 7 euro charge to have your stuff cleaned. I decided to stick one to the man and walk for a 2nd day in a smelly kit. The crowds of the Camino shall part before me like the red sea before moses. Also no internet so I have scoured the town for internet just to let you all know that I managed todays long stage ok after yesterday. I know one person who likes to worry, so consider this entry just for you. The funny part was somehow entering Villafranca before Paul and Brian after all their comments about me being too slow today.
The walk tomorrow takes me up to 1,300meters and over a total distance of 30.1km or 18.7miles and the next day takes us down again. Don't worry you will not be logging on to see that I have done the mountain in one day and done 32miles. I am looking forward to this walk, the views should be amazing. Tomorrow we enter Galacia, people have told me that this is where the magic on the Camino begins. For me it has already begun, I am not sure that I can expect much more than I have already witnessed.
I plan to walk alone again tomorrow, probably meeting David at the end of the day. I have a feeling that the next 7 days are going to be quite special. Well saying that, the next 11 days as I have worked out that by cutting two stages I will just about be able to afford to go to Finisterre and Muxia. I just can't get enough of this walking business now, maybe I should walk home! Very excited to be able to walk to the sea, my boots which were dark blue are now red with dust. I love these boots but they shall need to be thrown away at the end of the Camino as I have already worn the heels down to the inside of the shoe. I must be a sloppy walker. I plan to buy myself a pair of the same boots though, really have done me well. I actually decided to send an email to North Face to congratulate them on a good pair of boots. Maybe if I mention the heel ware they will send me a free pair?
Oh I also forgot to mention an experience I had yesterday. As I was walking up the mountain in a solitary part of the path I rounded a corner to find a girl walking in her underwear. She was walking in front of me for a good few minutes and I was desperately trying to inspect the floor before me. They then stopped and she was very friendly, she was from Scotland. We talked briefly and I had to have the strenth of a saint to maintain eye contact with her, lets just say that walking in underwear does a very bad job of keeping everything where it should be. I have seen some people walking in some crazy things but I think this wins so far. Very friendly and nice girl but a strange atmosphere so I raced away from them after we shook hands. Crazy.
Oh and there is a guy doing the Camino on a unicycle, I am yet to meet him though.
Bit of a long one again, they usually are when I am in good spirits but I apologise. Keep the comments coming.
@ksam - I intend to do just that thank you. I also expect to be walking with socks on my hands in two days time. I can't help but think back to one of your previous comments when you said that I would be seeing Nadia again. Who knew that you would be so right, David too.
I woke up at 6:00 this morning as breakfast was at 6:30. I hadn't slept very well, I think it was a combination between a very full stomach and so much exercise. My legs felt fine though, the odd slight ache but nothing as bad as I should be feeling. I just hope it is not a case of the aches hitting me a day late, this would not be fun heading up O'Cebreiro. That said, I don't mind the ascents as you can really throw yourself into the mountain and speed up them. With the descent you have to take it a lot slower as the path is usually quite dangerous, this kills the thighs and knees.
Breakfast was ok, 3euro for two pieces of toast and a coffee. I was just grateful to get something inside of me though as I felt that my stomach had made light work of last nights haul of food in order to repair my poor legs. Again I had jam, really starting to get a taste for all this weird food now. I like to try more things now, who would have thought that salad wouldn't kill me. Crazy.
So I set off in the dark, making myself go slow despite feeling good. I knew that I owed that much to my body after yesterday. The waymarks out of Molinaseca were terrible and I had a hard time, as did others, of getting out of the place. Finally I was on the way into Ponferrada, slowly but surely. Paul and Brian passed me, telling me that I needed to up the pace. Brian said he was 65 and was flying. Paul said that my 23 year old knees must be feeling it after yesterday, he tapped on his special knee mechanism (he has no knee cartilage and it keeps the bones locked in place) and said not to worry as they have the technology to keep me going. They are really friendly guys. I love Americans but I must admit that I think the Canadians are just begining to edge it, sorry if there are any Americans reading! Blame the very anti-english American I met on the camino, the only person so far I have not liked.
Anyway. I resisted the urge to rise to the bait and I continued slowly. I was proud of my ability to do this, I find that I surprise myself in someway each day. Some small like this, some huge like yesterday. Ponferrada was terrible to navigate and I got slightly lost, bluddy big citites, but I found out later that I wasn't the only one. I stopped for a coke as I needed the toilet, my choice of establishment was possibly not the best as it was slightly too posh for a pilgrim such as me. I didn't care but I got the feeling that my presence was not cared for. I finally fought my way out of the city and someone caught me up, David. We then walked the rest of the day together, finally catching up. It was a lovely walk and great fun. He had been walking with a girl from Brighton who I met in Roncesvalles, which seems another lifetime ago. He is good fun, and he made me laugh by picking any and every fruit off the trees he walks past. Despite it being against my morals David seemed quite happy to do it. I think he ate a grocery stores worth of fruit including some very strange apple things which I suspect were not apples at all. We stopped for lunch in another lovely town, I had a pizza to completely contrast against yesterdays meager lunch.
The walk was easy enough, a few ascents and descents, but these molehills were nothing compared to that which I battled yesterday. Today was probably my 3rd favourite walk so far. Yesterdays two stages were my favourite, then the Pyrenees which I split into two stages but am counting as one. The scenery was beautiful, wine fields for as far as the eye could see and mountains providing a suitably breathtaking backdrop. I just couldn't stop commenting on the view, it really was beautiful. I have a feeling that these last stages are going to be the best of the Camino if they continue the precident. I am very excited to walk them and I have decided to stick to the stages in my book now, take it slow and really enjoy the walks. 8 stages till I reach Santiago, so close I can smell the incense.
Villafranca is a gorgeous town, another of my favourites along the camino I think. The albergue we are staying at is very clean and modern but slightly lame. There are no hand washing facilities for clothes, only a 7 euro charge to have your stuff cleaned. I decided to stick one to the man and walk for a 2nd day in a smelly kit. The crowds of the Camino shall part before me like the red sea before moses. Also no internet so I have scoured the town for internet just to let you all know that I managed todays long stage ok after yesterday. I know one person who likes to worry, so consider this entry just for you. The funny part was somehow entering Villafranca before Paul and Brian after all their comments about me being too slow today.
The walk tomorrow takes me up to 1,300meters and over a total distance of 30.1km or 18.7miles and the next day takes us down again. Don't worry you will not be logging on to see that I have done the mountain in one day and done 32miles. I am looking forward to this walk, the views should be amazing. Tomorrow we enter Galacia, people have told me that this is where the magic on the Camino begins. For me it has already begun, I am not sure that I can expect much more than I have already witnessed.
I plan to walk alone again tomorrow, probably meeting David at the end of the day. I have a feeling that the next 7 days are going to be quite special. Well saying that, the next 11 days as I have worked out that by cutting two stages I will just about be able to afford to go to Finisterre and Muxia. I just can't get enough of this walking business now, maybe I should walk home! Very excited to be able to walk to the sea, my boots which were dark blue are now red with dust. I love these boots but they shall need to be thrown away at the end of the Camino as I have already worn the heels down to the inside of the shoe. I must be a sloppy walker. I plan to buy myself a pair of the same boots though, really have done me well. I actually decided to send an email to North Face to congratulate them on a good pair of boots. Maybe if I mention the heel ware they will send me a free pair?
Oh I also forgot to mention an experience I had yesterday. As I was walking up the mountain in a solitary part of the path I rounded a corner to find a girl walking in her underwear. She was walking in front of me for a good few minutes and I was desperately trying to inspect the floor before me. They then stopped and she was very friendly, she was from Scotland. We talked briefly and I had to have the strenth of a saint to maintain eye contact with her, lets just say that walking in underwear does a very bad job of keeping everything where it should be. I have seen some people walking in some crazy things but I think this wins so far. Very friendly and nice girl but a strange atmosphere so I raced away from them after we shook hands. Crazy.
Oh and there is a guy doing the Camino on a unicycle, I am yet to meet him though.
Bit of a long one again, they usually are when I am in good spirits but I apologise. Keep the comments coming.
@ksam - I intend to do just that thank you. I also expect to be walking with socks on my hands in two days time. I can't help but think back to one of your previous comments when you said that I would be seeing Nadia again. Who knew that you would be so right, David too.
Thursday, 13 October 2011
A truly magical day on the Camino - 47.9km / 29.7miles to Molinaseca
Yes you read that right and before you start telling me how I should slow down and not over do it (which is all great advice) I don't want to hear it. I feel like I am walking on air tonight, stiffly but still walking. I understand that it is important that I don't do too much, too fast else I will injure myself and that would be a tradgedy when I am so near to the end. Though I decided that if the unthinkable should happen then I would just buy a bike or some other form of transport, nothing is stopping me from getting to Santiago. So save all of your well meant and sensible advice, trust me I had it running through my head all day already. So now that is out of the way, I shall explain todays adventure. Really was unlike any other day so far, and not one I shall forget in a hurry.
So I started out in Astorga at 7:30 after a breakfast buffet which put some wind in my sales, I find coffee does that to me. I was expecting to go no further than Rabanal del Camino 13.3miles and I started out very slowly. My right knee was giving me a bit of jip so I decided today was going to be a slow walk. After 5.3km someone came running up behind me, "Did you lose something?" a voice said in a German accent. It was Nadia. I couldn't believe it. She had split the two stages that I combined how I was going to before I opted to just go all the way to Leon. It was such a surprise to see her again and not only that she had found something of mine that I had accidently dropped a day ago, my camera case. I had noticed but decided to not go back, she had come along some time later and found it. She was doing well but she was infested with bedbugs and was covered in bites. I felt so sorry for her. She has thrown away her sleeping bag as despite chemical treatment and washing her bag she is still being eaten alive. I took this chance to do what I am not very good at and express my feelings. I explained how bad I felt after we barely said goodbye and told her how I find it hard to express how I feel, she said I was silly and I should have just said it. I explained why I wanted to go alone and she said she understood it and she herself sees now that she was holding me back and not letting me go. I was happy with this though as familiarity brings security so we held onto each other. It seems that since we split up that both of our Camino's have truly begun. We talked about a lot of coincidences such as how she had met the guy that lives by me and he had mentioned me, and other such things. I also assured her that I had a feeling that we would be seeing David, if not before Santiago then in the city itself. We walked for some time together until she stopped to have a drink and I continued. We said goodbye as if we may never see each other again, I said that I knew we would but she insisted just incase. I got talking to another australian which was nice and I joined him and his group for a drink, strangely one of htem was a guy from Ireland who I had sat next to on the train to St. Jean. The other Australian I had met came by and joined us too.
I got to Rabanal 13.3km for about 11:30 which was far too early to stop so I decided to continue to the next place. I had a bite to eat and a drink and then continued. I decided that if I stopped in the place 5.8km after Rabanal then I would pass the Cruz de Ferro in the dark, this is the place where people bring a stone from home to place at the cross to reprosent their sins or something. I brought a stone from the top of Scafell Pike. I had met Nadia again and we took each others picture here and then I continued. The next place to stay was just a matress on the floor and a hole in the ground for a toilet, very basic so I continued. By this point I had done all the climbing up the mountain and I still felt great, I was hardly hanging around either. I got to Acebo and decided that I felt strong enough to go to the next place, the last place before Molinaseca. My knee had stopped hurting as soon as I met Nadia for the first time and I had felt so strong all day. I decided that I would keep going until I felt that I was too tired to continue, this took me all the way to Riego de Ambros a total of 42.2km and although I was tiring now I felt that I could do the last 5.7km to Molinaseca. This last stretch was all down hill, well 14.2km of it was and parts of it were very steep. It was a real tough stretch to Molinaseca and I felt that I was near to done but I kept on and finally I reached the town. A lovely place, one of the most beautiful places I have come to on the Camino. I saw the two Canadians Brian and Paul who had walked 30 odd Km today and they were amazed when I told them where I had come from.
I got in to the albergue that I had chosen from my book and who is sitting outside with a glass of wine, David. I couldn't believe it and neither could he. He especially couldn't believe how far I had come. We had a brief talk and I told him that I would fill him in after my shower. Unfortunately it was time for dinner and he hadn't booked a menu here so he went into town. We agreed to stay at the same albergue tomorrow so we can catch up. It is weird that although we only knew each other for 3 days it is very good to see him again and I am looking forward to catching up with him. I was absolutely starving, I hadn't eaten properly for such a big walk. I ate lentil soup which was gorgeous, salad - yes salad, tomato, lettuce, carrot, you name it I ate it and it was actually alright with a bit of oil and vinegar on, lots of spaghetti, pineapple and peach. I am stuffed now but I really needed to eat so much, should give me energy for tomorrow.
As I got in so late, just after 6pm, I did not have chance to wash my clothes so I shall be walking in a smelly kit tomorrow. I plan to take it slow tomorrow and enjoy the day, walking 19miles to Villafranca del Bierzo. I doubt the walk will be as beautiful as today though, it really was the most beautiful walk I have done yet. The latter parts gave me a chance to be alone which was lovely and the path led through bushes and trees, it really felt like an adventure or exploration. The scenery was lovely too, rolling mountains and forrests with an autumn colour gradient. Absolutely gorgeous walk and despite the hardship I really enjoyed myself.
The hospitalerio called me crazy when he asked where I had started from today, I don't see the problem if I was sure my body could do it. I will pay tomorrow though with stiff knees and aches but I will take it slow and rest often. Not sure if there is much that I can't do when I set my mind to it, still trying to decide if I am strong or just too damn stubborn to quit.
So no pain, just very stiff. I am off to give myself a massage of the lower limbs and to stretch my muscles. Very tired but absolutely over the moon with todays experience. Up and down 1,505m mountain and 29.7miles. Slightly impressed with myself. I remember struggling to do 17miles to Larassona and feeling worse than this at the end of it. How far I have come. I think I am starting to get the hunger for a physical challenge, what next after the Camino? No greater feeling than achieving something you never thought yourself capable of. I am beginning to wonder what aren't I capable of.
So I started out in Astorga at 7:30 after a breakfast buffet which put some wind in my sales, I find coffee does that to me. I was expecting to go no further than Rabanal del Camino 13.3miles and I started out very slowly. My right knee was giving me a bit of jip so I decided today was going to be a slow walk. After 5.3km someone came running up behind me, "Did you lose something?" a voice said in a German accent. It was Nadia. I couldn't believe it. She had split the two stages that I combined how I was going to before I opted to just go all the way to Leon. It was such a surprise to see her again and not only that she had found something of mine that I had accidently dropped a day ago, my camera case. I had noticed but decided to not go back, she had come along some time later and found it. She was doing well but she was infested with bedbugs and was covered in bites. I felt so sorry for her. She has thrown away her sleeping bag as despite chemical treatment and washing her bag she is still being eaten alive. I took this chance to do what I am not very good at and express my feelings. I explained how bad I felt after we barely said goodbye and told her how I find it hard to express how I feel, she said I was silly and I should have just said it. I explained why I wanted to go alone and she said she understood it and she herself sees now that she was holding me back and not letting me go. I was happy with this though as familiarity brings security so we held onto each other. It seems that since we split up that both of our Camino's have truly begun. We talked about a lot of coincidences such as how she had met the guy that lives by me and he had mentioned me, and other such things. I also assured her that I had a feeling that we would be seeing David, if not before Santiago then in the city itself. We walked for some time together until she stopped to have a drink and I continued. We said goodbye as if we may never see each other again, I said that I knew we would but she insisted just incase. I got talking to another australian which was nice and I joined him and his group for a drink, strangely one of htem was a guy from Ireland who I had sat next to on the train to St. Jean. The other Australian I had met came by and joined us too.
I got to Rabanal 13.3km for about 11:30 which was far too early to stop so I decided to continue to the next place. I had a bite to eat and a drink and then continued. I decided that if I stopped in the place 5.8km after Rabanal then I would pass the Cruz de Ferro in the dark, this is the place where people bring a stone from home to place at the cross to reprosent their sins or something. I brought a stone from the top of Scafell Pike. I had met Nadia again and we took each others picture here and then I continued. The next place to stay was just a matress on the floor and a hole in the ground for a toilet, very basic so I continued. By this point I had done all the climbing up the mountain and I still felt great, I was hardly hanging around either. I got to Acebo and decided that I felt strong enough to go to the next place, the last place before Molinaseca. My knee had stopped hurting as soon as I met Nadia for the first time and I had felt so strong all day. I decided that I would keep going until I felt that I was too tired to continue, this took me all the way to Riego de Ambros a total of 42.2km and although I was tiring now I felt that I could do the last 5.7km to Molinaseca. This last stretch was all down hill, well 14.2km of it was and parts of it were very steep. It was a real tough stretch to Molinaseca and I felt that I was near to done but I kept on and finally I reached the town. A lovely place, one of the most beautiful places I have come to on the Camino. I saw the two Canadians Brian and Paul who had walked 30 odd Km today and they were amazed when I told them where I had come from.
I got in to the albergue that I had chosen from my book and who is sitting outside with a glass of wine, David. I couldn't believe it and neither could he. He especially couldn't believe how far I had come. We had a brief talk and I told him that I would fill him in after my shower. Unfortunately it was time for dinner and he hadn't booked a menu here so he went into town. We agreed to stay at the same albergue tomorrow so we can catch up. It is weird that although we only knew each other for 3 days it is very good to see him again and I am looking forward to catching up with him. I was absolutely starving, I hadn't eaten properly for such a big walk. I ate lentil soup which was gorgeous, salad - yes salad, tomato, lettuce, carrot, you name it I ate it and it was actually alright with a bit of oil and vinegar on, lots of spaghetti, pineapple and peach. I am stuffed now but I really needed to eat so much, should give me energy for tomorrow.
As I got in so late, just after 6pm, I did not have chance to wash my clothes so I shall be walking in a smelly kit tomorrow. I plan to take it slow tomorrow and enjoy the day, walking 19miles to Villafranca del Bierzo. I doubt the walk will be as beautiful as today though, it really was the most beautiful walk I have done yet. The latter parts gave me a chance to be alone which was lovely and the path led through bushes and trees, it really felt like an adventure or exploration. The scenery was lovely too, rolling mountains and forrests with an autumn colour gradient. Absolutely gorgeous walk and despite the hardship I really enjoyed myself.
The hospitalerio called me crazy when he asked where I had started from today, I don't see the problem if I was sure my body could do it. I will pay tomorrow though with stiff knees and aches but I will take it slow and rest often. Not sure if there is much that I can't do when I set my mind to it, still trying to decide if I am strong or just too damn stubborn to quit.
So no pain, just very stiff. I am off to give myself a massage of the lower limbs and to stretch my muscles. Very tired but absolutely over the moon with todays experience. Up and down 1,505m mountain and 29.7miles. Slightly impressed with myself. I remember struggling to do 17miles to Larassona and feeling worse than this at the end of it. How far I have come. I think I am starting to get the hunger for a physical challenge, what next after the Camino? No greater feeling than achieving something you never thought yourself capable of. I am beginning to wonder what aren't I capable of.
Wednesday, 12 October 2011
Astorga 19.4miles
After I did my blog yesterday I relaxed in the garden of the albergue, oh how a beer would have suited the weather and the scenery. I had a gorgeous ice lolly and it was so good that I had another right after. Three Canadian women stayed at the albergue too, they came later in the evening and had their own room. They started in Leon and I gave them some advice and slightly scared them by telling them about the next few stages, they were really nice. The albergue hospitalerio was such a nice lady, kept returning my smiles and just being really friendly. She asked if I wanted to soak my feet and I said no they are fine and just my muscles ache, she then insisted that I take this cream to rub into my muscles before I go to bed and when I wake up. Later when I was eating the pilgrims menu she heard me coughing and brought over a shot to help with my chest, had to turn it down unfortunately. The pilgrims menu was very odd, it was described as traditional. Starters were stewed vegetables, peas and ham or green beans. I went for the stewed vegetables which was nice enough apart from the random fish like meat that was mixed in. I swear there were the heads of some weird eel or something thrown in for good measure. The mains were eel, veal or meat balls. I went for the meat balls and they were lovely, nice chips too.
So I got into bed for about 8:30pm but I found it hard to drop off as id had a nap earlier. It was great having my own room but I think there was football on as I could hear "GOOOOOOOOOAAAAALL GOOOOOAAAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL!" as the continental commentators get a bit excited. I managed to drop off though and woke up at 6:30am, having a half an hour lie in as breakfast wasn't till 7am. Once I was all packed and ready to go the place was still all shut up so I headed off on an empty stomach. I also needed to fill my water bladder at the fountain outside the albergue but it was dry. I was again walking in the dark but the moon was so bright it lit my way, it was such a lovely walk and I flew through the first 5.8km. After 9.6km I found a water fountain and filled up my bag, the australian was also sat nearby and he insisted that I had his bananna as I had missed breakfast. Nothing but lovely people along the camino. After 4.5km more I stopped for a coffee con leche and a croissant with butter and jam, that really got me going. I then continued for the last 16.2km without a break but I felt good. There were two small climbs and a couple of small descents but nothing too major. There was also a really nice girl with a south african accent in the middle of nowhere giving pilgrims juice and some food. I had some lemonade which was gorgeous once you ignored the dead flies floating in it and I had a wholemeal biscuit too, I left a donation and headed off.
Astorga is nice enough, pretty dead though. Apparently it is a public holiday today so lots of places are closed. The albergue is really nice, I have a single bed which is great as it means no climbing into a bunk bed or hacing someone above me. Once I had washed my clothes and myself I went to grab some food, lots of places had finished until 7pm which sucked. I did find one place that serves all day though. One question though. Why is it always so bluddy hard to get just a plate of chips in Spain? I am under the impression that chips are 'Patatas fritas' please correct me if I am wrong, which may very well be the problem here. The first time, I forget where, they bought me some crisps so I just ate them and said nothing. At this place I had a terribly confusing conversation with the barmaid which saw me ordering small roast potatos covered in alioli, and I mean "would you like some roast potatos with your alioli?" covered. Still they were very nice and I am glad I opted for the GRANDE helping, I love garlic so it was all good but even this was too much for me so I had to scrape most of the sauce off. I feel sorry for the people in the beds next to me because I can still taste the stuff now.
Today's 19miles was easy enough, after doing 23miles 19 was never going to give me any problems, well at least not mentally. I did however at one point get random shooting pains in my right knee, it was fine when walking but killed when I stopped and began again. It is all good now though, just slightly tired legs. I am ready for the 13miles of ascent tomorrow. I am really liking these solitary walks again as I am free to do what I want and I can go at whatever pace my legs feel they can manage. I also have started taking a lot more photo's again now I am by myself.
So not much else to report here. Still not sure about Finisterre and Muxia which would be a further 4 days and apparently the best walks of the whole Camino. The thing that is putting me off is the price of my plane tickets as they will be 200euros rather than 80euros (that is bags included) if I don't head home straight away. I need to check out my financial situation and make a decision. I am in no real rush to get home as once I am home the job hunting begins so I should really make the most of this.
That is it, nothing else comes to mind. I am going to put my feet up and decide where to have dinner. Apparently a posh hotel/restaurant does a pilgrims menu but I am not sure if it is a good idea that I go there as I make pilgrims look like they are black tie smart. The hair and face fuzz situation is a bit out of control and my clothes just seem to get filthier with each wash. Then there is the small matter of my sandals, or rather the feet that wear them and the small fact that they resemble those that belong to a leper. At least I smell good, I seem to get through a bar of soap a week and nowhere is open here to get a new one so tomorrow I wash with a paper thin bar.
I am rambling about nothing now so time to go.
So I got into bed for about 8:30pm but I found it hard to drop off as id had a nap earlier. It was great having my own room but I think there was football on as I could hear "GOOOOOOOOOAAAAALL GOOOOOAAAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL!" as the continental commentators get a bit excited. I managed to drop off though and woke up at 6:30am, having a half an hour lie in as breakfast wasn't till 7am. Once I was all packed and ready to go the place was still all shut up so I headed off on an empty stomach. I also needed to fill my water bladder at the fountain outside the albergue but it was dry. I was again walking in the dark but the moon was so bright it lit my way, it was such a lovely walk and I flew through the first 5.8km. After 9.6km I found a water fountain and filled up my bag, the australian was also sat nearby and he insisted that I had his bananna as I had missed breakfast. Nothing but lovely people along the camino. After 4.5km more I stopped for a coffee con leche and a croissant with butter and jam, that really got me going. I then continued for the last 16.2km without a break but I felt good. There were two small climbs and a couple of small descents but nothing too major. There was also a really nice girl with a south african accent in the middle of nowhere giving pilgrims juice and some food. I had some lemonade which was gorgeous once you ignored the dead flies floating in it and I had a wholemeal biscuit too, I left a donation and headed off.
Astorga is nice enough, pretty dead though. Apparently it is a public holiday today so lots of places are closed. The albergue is really nice, I have a single bed which is great as it means no climbing into a bunk bed or hacing someone above me. Once I had washed my clothes and myself I went to grab some food, lots of places had finished until 7pm which sucked. I did find one place that serves all day though. One question though. Why is it always so bluddy hard to get just a plate of chips in Spain? I am under the impression that chips are 'Patatas fritas' please correct me if I am wrong, which may very well be the problem here. The first time, I forget where, they bought me some crisps so I just ate them and said nothing. At this place I had a terribly confusing conversation with the barmaid which saw me ordering small roast potatos covered in alioli, and I mean "would you like some roast potatos with your alioli?" covered. Still they were very nice and I am glad I opted for the GRANDE helping, I love garlic so it was all good but even this was too much for me so I had to scrape most of the sauce off. I feel sorry for the people in the beds next to me because I can still taste the stuff now.
Today's 19miles was easy enough, after doing 23miles 19 was never going to give me any problems, well at least not mentally. I did however at one point get random shooting pains in my right knee, it was fine when walking but killed when I stopped and began again. It is all good now though, just slightly tired legs. I am ready for the 13miles of ascent tomorrow. I am really liking these solitary walks again as I am free to do what I want and I can go at whatever pace my legs feel they can manage. I also have started taking a lot more photo's again now I am by myself.
So not much else to report here. Still not sure about Finisterre and Muxia which would be a further 4 days and apparently the best walks of the whole Camino. The thing that is putting me off is the price of my plane tickets as they will be 200euros rather than 80euros (that is bags included) if I don't head home straight away. I need to check out my financial situation and make a decision. I am in no real rush to get home as once I am home the job hunting begins so I should really make the most of this.
That is it, nothing else comes to mind. I am going to put my feet up and decide where to have dinner. Apparently a posh hotel/restaurant does a pilgrims menu but I am not sure if it is a good idea that I go there as I make pilgrims look like they are black tie smart. The hair and face fuzz situation is a bit out of control and my clothes just seem to get filthier with each wash. Then there is the small matter of my sandals, or rather the feet that wear them and the small fact that they resemble those that belong to a leper. At least I smell good, I seem to get through a bar of soap a week and nowhere is open here to get a new one so tomorrow I wash with a paper thin bar.
I am rambling about nothing now so time to go.
Tuesday, 11 October 2011
Relaxing in Villar de Mazarife
I slept terribly last night, not sure why, maybe it was the guy in the bunk next to mine who fancied a cuddle. Maybe it is my soap, everytime the bunk beds are pushed together my neighbour always joins me on my side. I set off at 6:30, really taking it slow today after yesterdays adventure. I didn't feel too bad considering, just a few stiff parts. I was going quite slow, trying to follow the signs in Leon which I personalyl think were the worst yet. They were so random and hard to find. I ended up following three women who had a map and were making their own way. My limbs were still asleep so I struggled to keep up. Once we were out of Leon and back on the path I dropped back and walked alone.
It was nice to be alone again, I decided to take a 30 minute nap on a bench in a quiet little village. I then continued and stopped at the next place for half of a bocadillo. I got talking to a guy from Australia who was talking to me about photography. He also told me that a friend booked her tickets home the other day and was shocked to find they cost 200euro. Wow. I just checked the price and he is right they are about 150euro which is shocking. I checked the day after I arrive in Santiago and they are 48euro. I need to find a safe computer to book it from and one with a printer. I am also not sure about the date as I am still undecided about going to Finisterre. From the start I wanted to do the extra 80km and then more to Muxia as it is supposed to be a nice walk but I am not sure if I can be bothered now, as bad as that sounds. So I am unsure whether I should book it once I find a place or wait and see if I change my mind, though the price may go up. I will jump on the camino forum and ask advice on booking tickets safely.
So the walk was easy enough today, just a little muscle fatigue in the legs. I took it slow for the 13.8miles as I need to recover to walk 19miles tomorrow. The albergue I am in is nice enough, I am the only person here though as I think others opted to stay in the first place in town. This means I have my own room and should get a peaceful nights sleep with no need for ear plugs, result. So I should be well rested for tomorrow.
So that is it really, quite a short one as not a lot has happened. Feeling good but tired due to a lack of sleep, think I will try and get to bed for 7-8pm tonight.
It was nice to be alone again, I decided to take a 30 minute nap on a bench in a quiet little village. I then continued and stopped at the next place for half of a bocadillo. I got talking to a guy from Australia who was talking to me about photography. He also told me that a friend booked her tickets home the other day and was shocked to find they cost 200euro. Wow. I just checked the price and he is right they are about 150euro which is shocking. I checked the day after I arrive in Santiago and they are 48euro. I need to find a safe computer to book it from and one with a printer. I am also not sure about the date as I am still undecided about going to Finisterre. From the start I wanted to do the extra 80km and then more to Muxia as it is supposed to be a nice walk but I am not sure if I can be bothered now, as bad as that sounds. So I am unsure whether I should book it once I find a place or wait and see if I change my mind, though the price may go up. I will jump on the camino forum and ask advice on booking tickets safely.
So the walk was easy enough today, just a little muscle fatigue in the legs. I took it slow for the 13.8miles as I need to recover to walk 19miles tomorrow. The albergue I am in is nice enough, I am the only person here though as I think others opted to stay in the first place in town. This means I have my own room and should get a peaceful nights sleep with no need for ear plugs, result. So I should be well rested for tomorrow.
So that is it really, quite a short one as not a lot has happened. Feeling good but tired due to a lack of sleep, think I will try and get to bed for 7-8pm tonight.
Monday, 10 October 2011
In Leon obviously. 37.4km / 23 Miles
I slept well last night after giving myself a shin and foot massage which seems to have worked wonders. The pilgrim menu was weird, I had rice with tomato sauce and a fried egg placed on top. So I said goodbye to Nadia, maybe not as well as I would like though. I told her last night that I planned to go further today but I didn't really explain that I probably wouldn't see her again. I wanted to thank her for her company for the last few weeks but I never did, not very good at talking about all this mushy stuff. So I simply said goobye and left at 6:30. She did send me a friend request on facebook though which I will accept when I get home.
It was dark when I left and as far as I could tell I was the first to leave the albergue, or so I thought. It was another silent morning and very very dark, it was quite creepy. The moon looked set to burst and it glowed red which was pretty eerie. The path was poorly waymarked so I stopped to look at my map, trying to use the building I was stood next to as a point of reference. Once I had worked out that it was a cemetary I couldn't get away quick enough, now was not the hour to be lurking around such places. I also had 15 minute spell where I thought I was following a ghost or something, very long story and I am too tired to tell it now but it was basically a combination of bad night eyes, strange sounds and a strange Spanish man who seemed to keep appearing and disappearing.
The walk was 18.8km of Senda which is basically a gravel path at the side of a road, made for pilgrims to keep them out of harms way. It was perfectly straight which made it hard going. I stopped to talk to a man who passed me earlier as I was resting, he had been at my albergue and I thought that I had picked up a Brummy twang to his voice. I was right. He lived in Sutton but had previously lived in Polesworth (about 10 minutes from where I live) and his cousin lives in Stonydelph which is also in Tamworth. Small world. I stopped after 18.8km for a coke and I ate my twix and crisps, having only eaten 4 little rolls with chocolate in them for breakfast.
I left Mansilla de las Mulas which is where I would have been staying and carried on along the senda. I only just realised that I walked the remaining 18.6km without a break, not very good! I was struggling to find anywhere to stop for another break on the way to Leon and once I hit the city I decided to check into the albergue first. The walk was pretty flat all day, mostly along a senda and with a dodgy part over a narrow bridge where you virtually had to dodge the traffic. There was a slight climb after 10.2km from Mansilla but nothing that I hadn't faced before and the descent was equally as tame. The path descended into Leon, having to use bridges over the busy motorways. I then got lost and ended up walking probably a further 2km when as fate would have it someone saw me walk over to a street map (the only one in the whole of Leon I think). This guy was German, obviously he would be from nowhere else after I left my German friend behind and obviously he didn't speak a word of English. I actually found this quite funny, typical I thought. He really wanted to help me and he happened to be headed in the same direction as I was. We followed his map and finally found the albergue, he was staying there too but I am not sure if he is a pilgrim as he doesn't seem to have any equipment.
So I have done my routine though it is a bit cold now for my clothes to dry. Speaking of which, Spain is very cold in the mornings now and I am actually considering buying some gloves. I then went to a Burger King which we had passed and feasted like a king, lunch and dinner in one I think. I finally felt human again. I had no real pains today, the odd twinge in my shin when I twisted my leg a certain way towards the end, but my legs don't half ache now. To be expected I guess, I really will sleep like a log tonight. Tomorrow is only 13.8miles and I plan to take it easy. I am glad that I made it this far, the furthest I have ever walked and I was pretty fast too. No pains and my aches are subsiding now that I am sat down. My poor body, it really served me well today. All I had in my mind this morning when considering going all the way to Leon was, how can you know your limits if you don't try to reach them. Although I kept telling myself that I would stop if I had to at Aracahueja after 29km I knew really that the only place I was going to stop was Leon, mission accomplished. I enjoyed the challenge and even the aches were good, they were the aches of a winner I kept telling myself.
So tomorrow I have two choices as the path splits again at the outskirts of Leon. I think I will go the way which takes me on natural paths as I am not sure if I can face much more sendas.
I am feeling good, tired but good. The albergue is nice, decent facilities and it seems clean enough despite sleeping 142. I think I will give myself another lower limb massage and then head to bed for about 8pm. Only 12 days till I reach Santiago, crazy.
Proud of myself after todays long walk. Very happy too.
It was dark when I left and as far as I could tell I was the first to leave the albergue, or so I thought. It was another silent morning and very very dark, it was quite creepy. The moon looked set to burst and it glowed red which was pretty eerie. The path was poorly waymarked so I stopped to look at my map, trying to use the building I was stood next to as a point of reference. Once I had worked out that it was a cemetary I couldn't get away quick enough, now was not the hour to be lurking around such places. I also had 15 minute spell where I thought I was following a ghost or something, very long story and I am too tired to tell it now but it was basically a combination of bad night eyes, strange sounds and a strange Spanish man who seemed to keep appearing and disappearing.
The walk was 18.8km of Senda which is basically a gravel path at the side of a road, made for pilgrims to keep them out of harms way. It was perfectly straight which made it hard going. I stopped to talk to a man who passed me earlier as I was resting, he had been at my albergue and I thought that I had picked up a Brummy twang to his voice. I was right. He lived in Sutton but had previously lived in Polesworth (about 10 minutes from where I live) and his cousin lives in Stonydelph which is also in Tamworth. Small world. I stopped after 18.8km for a coke and I ate my twix and crisps, having only eaten 4 little rolls with chocolate in them for breakfast.
I left Mansilla de las Mulas which is where I would have been staying and carried on along the senda. I only just realised that I walked the remaining 18.6km without a break, not very good! I was struggling to find anywhere to stop for another break on the way to Leon and once I hit the city I decided to check into the albergue first. The walk was pretty flat all day, mostly along a senda and with a dodgy part over a narrow bridge where you virtually had to dodge the traffic. There was a slight climb after 10.2km from Mansilla but nothing that I hadn't faced before and the descent was equally as tame. The path descended into Leon, having to use bridges over the busy motorways. I then got lost and ended up walking probably a further 2km when as fate would have it someone saw me walk over to a street map (the only one in the whole of Leon I think). This guy was German, obviously he would be from nowhere else after I left my German friend behind and obviously he didn't speak a word of English. I actually found this quite funny, typical I thought. He really wanted to help me and he happened to be headed in the same direction as I was. We followed his map and finally found the albergue, he was staying there too but I am not sure if he is a pilgrim as he doesn't seem to have any equipment.
So I have done my routine though it is a bit cold now for my clothes to dry. Speaking of which, Spain is very cold in the mornings now and I am actually considering buying some gloves. I then went to a Burger King which we had passed and feasted like a king, lunch and dinner in one I think. I finally felt human again. I had no real pains today, the odd twinge in my shin when I twisted my leg a certain way towards the end, but my legs don't half ache now. To be expected I guess, I really will sleep like a log tonight. Tomorrow is only 13.8miles and I plan to take it easy. I am glad that I made it this far, the furthest I have ever walked and I was pretty fast too. No pains and my aches are subsiding now that I am sat down. My poor body, it really served me well today. All I had in my mind this morning when considering going all the way to Leon was, how can you know your limits if you don't try to reach them. Although I kept telling myself that I would stop if I had to at Aracahueja after 29km I knew really that the only place I was going to stop was Leon, mission accomplished. I enjoyed the challenge and even the aches were good, they were the aches of a winner I kept telling myself.
So tomorrow I have two choices as the path splits again at the outskirts of Leon. I think I will go the way which takes me on natural paths as I am not sure if I can face much more sendas.
I am feeling good, tired but good. The albergue is nice, decent facilities and it seems clean enough despite sleeping 142. I think I will give myself another lower limb massage and then head to bed for about 8pm. Only 12 days till I reach Santiago, crazy.
Proud of myself after todays long walk. Very happy too.
Sunday, 9 October 2011
Longest day yet, 30.7km.
We set out at 6:30 this morning from Terradillos de los Templarios. We had a choice today as the path splits just over half way, 26.9km to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos or 30.7km to El Burgo Ranero. We chose the latter as it means a shorter walk tomorrow, well it should but I will come to that later.
As we left so early our albergue wasn´t serving breakfast yet so we set off on an empty stomach in the dark. I have never seen so many stars before in my life, it was so amazing. I saw my 4th shooting star of this trip. We found somewhere serving breakfast after 3.2km, despite it being a Sunday so we were very happy. It was so expensive though, 3.50 for two slices of toast and a bit of cheese. We walked in silence for most of the day, I think we have ran out of things to say. Having spent over 2 weeks together constantly I think we are at that point where you begin to annoy each other which is a shame so I have made a decision, but again I shall come to this later. So the walk was easy today as it was completely flat but mentally it was difficult. The path ran all day at the side of a road on a gravel path, the scenery was the same all the way apart from a few km through Sahagun city. We made a real good pace though, I think to just get off this mind numbing pathway. I cannot wait to walk through changing scenery again. These flat fields and perfectly straight paths really drain your energy. Due to the expensive breakfast (I had more than just the 3.50) I couldn´t afford a proper lunch so I had a pack of crisps and a cake, luckily I wasn´t hungry anyway.
So this albergue is nice, a building made out of mud and straw. Basic facilities but it is clean and friendly. My water had ran out and they greeted me with a glass of water. My dark blue boots are now white with dust which is funny. So the plan is to just chill tonight now until dinner, I will be hungry on the evening for once.
So tomorrows stage is 18.8km but I am considering going ahead on my own, I really feel that I need to walk this last 2 weeks by myself again. I rely on Nadia too much at times and it is as if I am not here on my own anymore. So I plan to either go 28.2km tomorrow to an albergue just outside Leon and then do 30.6km the day after which will put me ahead a day and put me by myself. If however after this 28.2km I feel strong I will add another 9.2km on to end the day in Leon, following the regular stages the days after which would again put me a day ahead. I think I could manage this thought it would be the furthest I have walked yet, lots of rests and taking it slow would see me into Leon I think. I shall see though, I may not decide to do it at all or I may split it over two days like I said. It feels like this is something I have to do, not looking forward to telling Nadia though but she should understand.
Thank you all for your comments, they help more than you can imagine. I am aware that I have not been away that long and I guess you won´t understand when I say that I am missing you all like crazy. On the Camino time seems so different, it really feels like I have been away months. Me and Nadia struggle to remember where we stayed just a few days ago. Starting in St. Jean seems like a life time ago, I have come so far. So I know it seems silly to say that I am missing you but it really feels like I have been away for so long. It is very strange. I guess walking just makes you more aware of the present and of the passage of time, stretching it out rather than compressing it like I am used to when watching tv for hours.
Thanks again, the comments really help.
Distances walked so far:
DAY - MILES
1 - 5
2 - 10.6
3 - 17
4 - 13
5 - 13
6 - 13.6
7 - 13.1
8 - 17.8
9 - 18.7
10 - 13
11 - 14.2
12 - 17
13 - 13.9
14 - 13
15 - 12.6
16 - 15.7
17 - 12.7
18 - 16.7
19 - 19
I thought I would add this, I wrote it in my diary the other night and I was impressed. Walking day after day, I must have thought I was up to the task to have dared to come here but it is crazy to think that I have actually been capable of it, well half of it. Roll on Santiago.
@Mom - I hope your cold gets better, glad dad is looking after you. My cold is clearing up now, just a really noisy cough. Excited to see you all upon my arrival, not sure how or when but I am looking forward to it. Give Emma lots of kisses for me, and the others too if you dare kiss Mark.
Adios.
As we left so early our albergue wasn´t serving breakfast yet so we set off on an empty stomach in the dark. I have never seen so many stars before in my life, it was so amazing. I saw my 4th shooting star of this trip. We found somewhere serving breakfast after 3.2km, despite it being a Sunday so we were very happy. It was so expensive though, 3.50 for two slices of toast and a bit of cheese. We walked in silence for most of the day, I think we have ran out of things to say. Having spent over 2 weeks together constantly I think we are at that point where you begin to annoy each other which is a shame so I have made a decision, but again I shall come to this later. So the walk was easy today as it was completely flat but mentally it was difficult. The path ran all day at the side of a road on a gravel path, the scenery was the same all the way apart from a few km through Sahagun city. We made a real good pace though, I think to just get off this mind numbing pathway. I cannot wait to walk through changing scenery again. These flat fields and perfectly straight paths really drain your energy. Due to the expensive breakfast (I had more than just the 3.50) I couldn´t afford a proper lunch so I had a pack of crisps and a cake, luckily I wasn´t hungry anyway.
So this albergue is nice, a building made out of mud and straw. Basic facilities but it is clean and friendly. My water had ran out and they greeted me with a glass of water. My dark blue boots are now white with dust which is funny. So the plan is to just chill tonight now until dinner, I will be hungry on the evening for once.
So tomorrows stage is 18.8km but I am considering going ahead on my own, I really feel that I need to walk this last 2 weeks by myself again. I rely on Nadia too much at times and it is as if I am not here on my own anymore. So I plan to either go 28.2km tomorrow to an albergue just outside Leon and then do 30.6km the day after which will put me ahead a day and put me by myself. If however after this 28.2km I feel strong I will add another 9.2km on to end the day in Leon, following the regular stages the days after which would again put me a day ahead. I think I could manage this thought it would be the furthest I have walked yet, lots of rests and taking it slow would see me into Leon I think. I shall see though, I may not decide to do it at all or I may split it over two days like I said. It feels like this is something I have to do, not looking forward to telling Nadia though but she should understand.
Thank you all for your comments, they help more than you can imagine. I am aware that I have not been away that long and I guess you won´t understand when I say that I am missing you all like crazy. On the Camino time seems so different, it really feels like I have been away months. Me and Nadia struggle to remember where we stayed just a few days ago. Starting in St. Jean seems like a life time ago, I have come so far. So I know it seems silly to say that I am missing you but it really feels like I have been away for so long. It is very strange. I guess walking just makes you more aware of the present and of the passage of time, stretching it out rather than compressing it like I am used to when watching tv for hours.
Thanks again, the comments really help.
Distances walked so far:
DAY - MILES
1 - 5
2 - 10.6
3 - 17
4 - 13
5 - 13
6 - 13.6
7 - 13.1
8 - 17.8
9 - 18.7
10 - 13
11 - 14.2
12 - 17
13 - 13.9
14 - 13
15 - 12.6
16 - 15.7
17 - 12.7
18 - 16.7
19 - 19
I thought I would add this, I wrote it in my diary the other night and I was impressed. Walking day after day, I must have thought I was up to the task to have dared to come here but it is crazy to think that I have actually been capable of it, well half of it. Roll on Santiago.
@Mom - I hope your cold gets better, glad dad is looking after you. My cold is clearing up now, just a really noisy cough. Excited to see you all upon my arrival, not sure how or when but I am looking forward to it. Give Emma lots of kisses for me, and the others too if you dare kiss Mark.
Adios.
Saturday, 8 October 2011
All roads lead to Terradillos de Templarios - Halfway to Santiago.
Firstly to fill you in on yesterdays trek from Fromista to Carrion de los condes, 12.7miles. Despite a really snug bed and a nice deep sleep I only had an average sleep due to a noisy French couple stamping about the room at all hours. The pilgrims menu was really weird too, pasta starter (what I chose) and then you pick your meat. Expecting chips I went for eggs, what arrived was literally a plate of fried eggs and nothing else. Whatever meat you chose you just got it piled on your plate. Think my eggs were off too. So the walk was pretty flat but my shin was giving me problems again until I stopped to take off my fleece, then it was fine for the rest of the day. My legs felt tired despite it being a short walk, maybe all the days catching up with me.
We reached Carrion and chose to stay in a Convent as there were few places to choose from. I had a nap and we played cards to pass the time. We went out for a pilgrims menu and it was my 3rd 5* meal of the camino, really great food.
I slept well and we left this morning at 6:30am, stopping for a coffee and a chocolate pastry thing for breakfast. The next town was 17.1km away and we began the day walking in the dark along a road until we turned off to an old roman road. It was so straight and the surrounding landscape was featureless so it was more of a mental harship than a physical one, especially as my shin is fine now (the odd shooting pain when I bend my foot certain ways in bed). Today´s walk was 16.7 miles and was again on flat ground. I was singing Queen songs to help with the monotony, the funny thing was that we came up to a cross roads and a Stop sign where someone had written 'Dont' above and 'me now' the word Stop. It made me laugh and was the one Queen song I had forgotten so cue lots of singing. There is little else to report about todays walk as not a lot happened, it was really that featureless. We stopped for a coke and a sandwich but that´s not that interesting. We are staying in a town where The Knights Templar used to hang out which is pretty cool, not really sure what they did but they feature a lot in movies and some books I have read so I think it is pretty cool. The Albergue is very new and clean but the rooms are a bit cramped.
Tomorrow we have a choice between a 26.9km (16.7mile) walk to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos which has one place with 22 beds or a 30.7km (19mile) walk to El Burgo Ranero which has two places and a total of 58 beds. I prefer the latter as it gives us a short (18.8km) walk the day after rather than a 24.5km walk and we are assured beds. We shall see though, I am sure we will decide later.
I also learnt yesterday that we have a really challenging 6 days coming up, it has got me quite excited. It begins in 4 days and consists of: Day1- 19.4 miles Villar de Mozarife to Astorga, Day2- The climb up Puerta Irago the highest point of the Camino begins, Day3- Rest of the climb up Puerta Irago (1,505m high) and the steep descent 16.4miles, Day4- 19.2 miles to Malinoseca to Villafranca, Day5- climb up to O´cebreiro 18.7miles and 1,300m high and Day6- the steep descent from O´cebreiro to Tricastela.
I am excited for these 6 days as it will be a real test. If my body survives this test it will leave 5 days till Santiago. I plan to just take it easy and listen to my body, stopping if necessary for a rest. If I can get through these 6 stages in one piece then I will feel like I have really achieved something great. Remind me that I was looking forward to these days as I am sure on day 3 of the 6 I wont be as eager for a tough test.
So that is pretty much it. Bit of a disjointed one, always is when I am trying to cover two days. Not a great deal has happened either. No blisters and no pains, just a bit stiff. Loving all of your comments, they really help. Thankful to be in a good place mentally at the minute as I find that harder to overcome than when my body is putting up a fight. I am happy and slowly plodding along, halfway to Santiago and 240.8miles (387.5km) left. Really missing my family and friends. One thing I have learnt on this trip is that I need people a lot more than I ever thought I did. I was not aware that I relied on the company and love of others so much. Not a bad thing, it has just made me appreciate my friends and family a hell of a lot more. Especially as they put up with my silly ways.
We reached Carrion and chose to stay in a Convent as there were few places to choose from. I had a nap and we played cards to pass the time. We went out for a pilgrims menu and it was my 3rd 5* meal of the camino, really great food.
I slept well and we left this morning at 6:30am, stopping for a coffee and a chocolate pastry thing for breakfast. The next town was 17.1km away and we began the day walking in the dark along a road until we turned off to an old roman road. It was so straight and the surrounding landscape was featureless so it was more of a mental harship than a physical one, especially as my shin is fine now (the odd shooting pain when I bend my foot certain ways in bed). Today´s walk was 16.7 miles and was again on flat ground. I was singing Queen songs to help with the monotony, the funny thing was that we came up to a cross roads and a Stop sign where someone had written 'Dont' above and 'me now' the word Stop. It made me laugh and was the one Queen song I had forgotten so cue lots of singing. There is little else to report about todays walk as not a lot happened, it was really that featureless. We stopped for a coke and a sandwich but that´s not that interesting. We are staying in a town where The Knights Templar used to hang out which is pretty cool, not really sure what they did but they feature a lot in movies and some books I have read so I think it is pretty cool. The Albergue is very new and clean but the rooms are a bit cramped.
Tomorrow we have a choice between a 26.9km (16.7mile) walk to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos which has one place with 22 beds or a 30.7km (19mile) walk to El Burgo Ranero which has two places and a total of 58 beds. I prefer the latter as it gives us a short (18.8km) walk the day after rather than a 24.5km walk and we are assured beds. We shall see though, I am sure we will decide later.
I also learnt yesterday that we have a really challenging 6 days coming up, it has got me quite excited. It begins in 4 days and consists of: Day1- 19.4 miles Villar de Mozarife to Astorga, Day2- The climb up Puerta Irago the highest point of the Camino begins, Day3- Rest of the climb up Puerta Irago (1,505m high) and the steep descent 16.4miles, Day4- 19.2 miles to Malinoseca to Villafranca, Day5- climb up to O´cebreiro 18.7miles and 1,300m high and Day6- the steep descent from O´cebreiro to Tricastela.
I am excited for these 6 days as it will be a real test. If my body survives this test it will leave 5 days till Santiago. I plan to just take it easy and listen to my body, stopping if necessary for a rest. If I can get through these 6 stages in one piece then I will feel like I have really achieved something great. Remind me that I was looking forward to these days as I am sure on day 3 of the 6 I wont be as eager for a tough test.
So that is pretty much it. Bit of a disjointed one, always is when I am trying to cover two days. Not a great deal has happened either. No blisters and no pains, just a bit stiff. Loving all of your comments, they really help. Thankful to be in a good place mentally at the minute as I find that harder to overcome than when my body is putting up a fight. I am happy and slowly plodding along, halfway to Santiago and 240.8miles (387.5km) left. Really missing my family and friends. One thing I have learnt on this trip is that I need people a lot more than I ever thought I did. I was not aware that I relied on the company and love of others so much. Not a bad thing, it has just made me appreciate my friends and family a hell of a lot more. Especially as they put up with my silly ways.
Thursday, 6 October 2011
Severe pain, hallucinations and the man flu on the road to Fromista
Yesterday me and Nadia played cards all day as the camp site was a bit of a walk from the city centre, though she went to the town to get some stuff to make us breakfast. It is like having my mother here with me! Just kidding, she is more like a big sister. The pilgrims menu was lovely and we sat up playing cards and eating dorritos till 9:30pm. It was only us in this huge warehouse full of beds and it was really creepy, especially as the lights kept turning on and off. The area was full of cats too, one of which kept jumping up onto my lap as we were eating, it stole my leftovers, had my empty ice cream pot to lick and then ran off. So the sleep was good (no snorers) but it was very cold sleeping in such a big empty room. We had breakfast and then left rather late at 8am, after I again stood and looked at the stars seeing two more shooting stars.
I was abolutely full of cold this morning (still am), lots of phlegm (sp), sore throat, coughing, sneezing, runny nose, headache and dodgy voice. I also have found that it really saps my willpower and energy, you know, a real case of the man flu. I walked with Nadia as I thought that I should take it easy and the first stage of todays 15.7miles to Fromista was a very steap climb 12% and then a very steep descent of 18%, we took it slow but it was hard when I was finding it hard to breathe when standing still. I have found that I no longer sweat on these walks apart from the palms of my hands, much to Nadia´s distaste when I hold her walking stick, I guess my body has got used to the exercise. I then began to get the pain in my left shin that I reported a few days ago, not too bad but we stopped for a drink. As I was feeling so drained I had a coke and a coffee which did very little to pick me up. I started to talk rubbish again to take my mind off the walk, I enjoy making up stories to tell Nadia. I guess they are white lies as I am obviously not telling the truth but I like to be brutally convincing, today I told her how I entered an 'eye spy' national tournament in England and came 2nd to an 85 year old man who had been doing it since he was 18, his technique was impecable. She laughed and asked how I manage to keep so serious when telling her such rubbish, which is funny as I am a terrible liar but can fake a story pretty well. She thinks I should become a writer as I have a good imagination, I explained that my understanding of grammar is too poor and I am not sure I would know how to construct something worth reading.
So this exchange and many similar kept me going today and I was grateful once again for her company. Not sure I would have had the stones to stay in that warehouse alone last night, was just too damn creepy. I soon began to get a much sharper pain in the front of my left shin, so painful it made me swear and I had to limp. We stopped 6km from Fromista for the rest of our breakfast which we had saved for lunch, which leads me off topic for a second to ask a question. Does anyone know why virtually every smaller Spanish town or village has houses that have collapsed into a pile of rubbish yet are just left in a heap? Literally every town has at least one, like Harry Potter's parent´s house, just left as it fell. I find it so strange.
We continued, walking most of the last 6km along a canal where I learnt living on canal boats is a very British thing to do. My shin was even more painful now, as if someone was stabbing me with a knife in the front of my left shin. What I can't undertand is why it hurts, there is no muscle, tendons or joints here just my shin bone. So I limped most of the way. Walking along the canal on elevated ground alongside a field which ran below us, I looked ahead and saw a dark blue van parked alongside the nearest edge of the field with its left back door open. After walking further I asked if we had passed the van and I hadn´t noticed, Nadia asked what van and I spent the next 10 minutes looking backwards and trying to find this van which just didn´t exist. It was so surreal, it was as clear as I see this keyboard now. I guess it was a combination of cold, pain and tiredness.
This albergue is really nice, very spatious bunkbeds and I am sleeping on the bottom for the first time since my trip began. The bar/restaurant is very nice too, done in a medieval theme. My routine has been done so now I sign off to play cards till dinner time. Not as much time to kill today as we were slower, though the albergue is empty apart from one other person.
I love reading the comments, especially after a hard day. It keeps all the people I care most about in my mind, reminding me that none of you want me to come home before 24th October which is the date I should reach Santiago. All being well and assuming I stick to the stages in my book.
Tomorrow is an easy 12.7miles of flat land to Carrion. Hopefully my cold will have died off a little and my shin will be ok. Though I guessed I asked for this pain when I was complaining that I was finding the Camino too easy. To be honest the added hardship did add a kind of sadistic enjoyment. I feel that I have achieved a lot more by completing today´s stage through the pain.
Thank you again for your comments. I miss you all.
I was abolutely full of cold this morning (still am), lots of phlegm (sp), sore throat, coughing, sneezing, runny nose, headache and dodgy voice. I also have found that it really saps my willpower and energy, you know, a real case of the man flu. I walked with Nadia as I thought that I should take it easy and the first stage of todays 15.7miles to Fromista was a very steap climb 12% and then a very steep descent of 18%, we took it slow but it was hard when I was finding it hard to breathe when standing still. I have found that I no longer sweat on these walks apart from the palms of my hands, much to Nadia´s distaste when I hold her walking stick, I guess my body has got used to the exercise. I then began to get the pain in my left shin that I reported a few days ago, not too bad but we stopped for a drink. As I was feeling so drained I had a coke and a coffee which did very little to pick me up. I started to talk rubbish again to take my mind off the walk, I enjoy making up stories to tell Nadia. I guess they are white lies as I am obviously not telling the truth but I like to be brutally convincing, today I told her how I entered an 'eye spy' national tournament in England and came 2nd to an 85 year old man who had been doing it since he was 18, his technique was impecable. She laughed and asked how I manage to keep so serious when telling her such rubbish, which is funny as I am a terrible liar but can fake a story pretty well. She thinks I should become a writer as I have a good imagination, I explained that my understanding of grammar is too poor and I am not sure I would know how to construct something worth reading.
So this exchange and many similar kept me going today and I was grateful once again for her company. Not sure I would have had the stones to stay in that warehouse alone last night, was just too damn creepy. I soon began to get a much sharper pain in the front of my left shin, so painful it made me swear and I had to limp. We stopped 6km from Fromista for the rest of our breakfast which we had saved for lunch, which leads me off topic for a second to ask a question. Does anyone know why virtually every smaller Spanish town or village has houses that have collapsed into a pile of rubbish yet are just left in a heap? Literally every town has at least one, like Harry Potter's parent´s house, just left as it fell. I find it so strange.
We continued, walking most of the last 6km along a canal where I learnt living on canal boats is a very British thing to do. My shin was even more painful now, as if someone was stabbing me with a knife in the front of my left shin. What I can't undertand is why it hurts, there is no muscle, tendons or joints here just my shin bone. So I limped most of the way. Walking along the canal on elevated ground alongside a field which ran below us, I looked ahead and saw a dark blue van parked alongside the nearest edge of the field with its left back door open. After walking further I asked if we had passed the van and I hadn´t noticed, Nadia asked what van and I spent the next 10 minutes looking backwards and trying to find this van which just didn´t exist. It was so surreal, it was as clear as I see this keyboard now. I guess it was a combination of cold, pain and tiredness.
This albergue is really nice, very spatious bunkbeds and I am sleeping on the bottom for the first time since my trip began. The bar/restaurant is very nice too, done in a medieval theme. My routine has been done so now I sign off to play cards till dinner time. Not as much time to kill today as we were slower, though the albergue is empty apart from one other person.
I love reading the comments, especially after a hard day. It keeps all the people I care most about in my mind, reminding me that none of you want me to come home before 24th October which is the date I should reach Santiago. All being well and assuming I stick to the stages in my book.
Tomorrow is an easy 12.7miles of flat land to Carrion. Hopefully my cold will have died off a little and my shin will be ok. Though I guessed I asked for this pain when I was complaining that I was finding the Camino too easy. To be honest the added hardship did add a kind of sadistic enjoyment. I feel that I have achieved a lot more by completing today´s stage through the pain.
Thank you again for your comments. I miss you all.
Wednesday, 5 October 2011
Mental breakdown on the road to Hornillos and full of cold in Castrojeriz
So I have two days to catch you all up on as yesterday I stayed in a place that had internet, I doubt they even had a phone line. So after my last post me and Nadia went to tourist information in Burgos to find out where there was a chinese restaurant. We found one quite near which was good but the food was terrible. I don´t think they have much business as we seemed to be intruding, they were all trying to have a family dinner. The food was not bought together but as soon as it was cooked, sometimes 10 minutes apart. I ordered beef fried rice and got beef fried noodles and ´fried chicken´which turned out to be a big chicken leg cooked like KFC with chips. I expected the usual fried chicken from the chinese, what was worse was that it was freezing cold inside so I just left it as I didn´t want to get ill. Nadia had a lot more success but it has been giving her a dodgy stomach. She keeps laughing at me and saying a german saying something about me having ´poo´on my hands, think it basically means all my choices so far have turned out bad.
So after Burgos it was 13miles to Hornillos and I felt up with a bit of a cold and in such a negative mood. I always try to be positive but this was terrible. I walked alone and I was just fed up of the camino, I wanted to go home. I really thought it would be my unfit body that would throw in the towel, not my mind which I deem to be quite strong when it has to be but here it was failing me. If an airport had been nearby I think I may have just gone home, I really had decided that this was it despite what people would say about me quiting. I tried to rally myself by saying I am not a quiter etc but I just couldn´t get my head out of this bad place. I just decided that I was not enjoying it anymore, physically there was no challenge and it was as if I was just plodding along at work doing a job I do not enjoy because I have to. So I was in a pretty stinking mood. I stopped 7.7km from Hornillos and had a croissant and a coke, feeding half to a lovely little dog who then left me once I had finished. Again I felt so used. I had bought two small packets of cat food in Burgos for all the wild cats I keep stopping and stroking, Nadia thought I was crazy/stupid I think. I have seen no cats since, only dogs. Typical. There was nothing to do in Hornillos, we shared a washing machine after 2 weeks of handwashing clothes which was nice though they smelt the same afterwards. There was really nothing to do but luckily Nadia had bought some playing cards. So after dinner I went to bed at 8pm, yup that early as I just wanted the day to be over.
So today I wake up absolutely full of cold. About a week ago me and Nadia noticed that a lot of people were coughing and sneezing, we both feared getting a cold. Time passed and we seemed to have escaped it but the universe seems to have conspired against me, figuring I was finding the walking too easy and has given me one hell of a cold. Sore head, crackling ears when I swallow, runny nose, sore throat, coughing etc. HOW DO YOU GET A COLD IN A COUNTRY THAT IS 30 DEGREES NEARLY EVERYDAY!? crazy. I have gone a year without a cold and it hits me here where it is so hot, somebody has a sense of humour. I guess it is the lowered immune system due to exposure to so many people and the bacteria etc they carry. So I left about 6:45am expecting another bad day, one to reflect how I felt. It was really dark when I left and the sky was so clear, the stars were the clearest I had ever seen as we were out in the sticks. I stopped for about ten minutes in the silence, eating a bag of frosties cereal and just looking at the sky. It really was amazing. I could see stars that I have never seen before, including the Pleidaes (sp) which I have only ever seen once before, then just as I was about to continue on my way I saw a shooting star. It was such a magical start to the day, I couldn´t help but feel happy. You can also see mars each morning when you set out as it is at it´s closest to the earth right now. I love looking at the stars so this was a real treat. The funny thing is that yesterday I kept singing "Catch a falling star and put it in your pocket, never let it fade away." no idea why this song was in my head as I had only ever heard it on tv programme Lost, but it made me laugh when I realised. I continued with a spring in my step.
So I had an easy 12.6mile walk to Castrojeriz stopping for a sandwich, cake and coffee which really gave me a boost and I virtually ran the last 9.4km to arrive in a sleepy little town. We are staying at a camp site which has a big room for pilgrims, I think we will be the only two staying here as most seem to have gone further into town. I am looking more and more like a tramp each day, beard and hair are both coming along, I have a big grease patch on the thigh of my trousers still, my white t-shirt is an even dirtier shade of grey and for some reason my clothes have started growing patches of black spots of mould. I shall walk into Santiago looking like a right hobo, I hope they let me in. Tomorrow I walk 15.7miles to Fromista, I hope my cold eases up a little as it just makes me tired. Missing you all.
@ Ksam - Thank you so much for your posts, they are lovely to read. I am glad you are enjoying my blog, it means a lot that someone I don´t even know is enjoying keeping up with my adventure. Hopefully it will give you the urge to get back on the way soon.
@ Dad - I really did think that you guys had lost interest, two weeks had passed since I had gone and I thought you had forgotten about me haha no worries, I understand technology can be a pain. It is nice to leave it behind actually, though I keep thinking about all the video games that are out whilst I am away. Coast to coast seems like a good one then if you haven´t done it. Not sure how long it takes but depending on us both working we should do it. Anyway, hope you are all well. Missing you all very much.
So after Burgos it was 13miles to Hornillos and I felt up with a bit of a cold and in such a negative mood. I always try to be positive but this was terrible. I walked alone and I was just fed up of the camino, I wanted to go home. I really thought it would be my unfit body that would throw in the towel, not my mind which I deem to be quite strong when it has to be but here it was failing me. If an airport had been nearby I think I may have just gone home, I really had decided that this was it despite what people would say about me quiting. I tried to rally myself by saying I am not a quiter etc but I just couldn´t get my head out of this bad place. I just decided that I was not enjoying it anymore, physically there was no challenge and it was as if I was just plodding along at work doing a job I do not enjoy because I have to. So I was in a pretty stinking mood. I stopped 7.7km from Hornillos and had a croissant and a coke, feeding half to a lovely little dog who then left me once I had finished. Again I felt so used. I had bought two small packets of cat food in Burgos for all the wild cats I keep stopping and stroking, Nadia thought I was crazy/stupid I think. I have seen no cats since, only dogs. Typical. There was nothing to do in Hornillos, we shared a washing machine after 2 weeks of handwashing clothes which was nice though they smelt the same afterwards. There was really nothing to do but luckily Nadia had bought some playing cards. So after dinner I went to bed at 8pm, yup that early as I just wanted the day to be over.
So today I wake up absolutely full of cold. About a week ago me and Nadia noticed that a lot of people were coughing and sneezing, we both feared getting a cold. Time passed and we seemed to have escaped it but the universe seems to have conspired against me, figuring I was finding the walking too easy and has given me one hell of a cold. Sore head, crackling ears when I swallow, runny nose, sore throat, coughing etc. HOW DO YOU GET A COLD IN A COUNTRY THAT IS 30 DEGREES NEARLY EVERYDAY!? crazy. I have gone a year without a cold and it hits me here where it is so hot, somebody has a sense of humour. I guess it is the lowered immune system due to exposure to so many people and the bacteria etc they carry. So I left about 6:45am expecting another bad day, one to reflect how I felt. It was really dark when I left and the sky was so clear, the stars were the clearest I had ever seen as we were out in the sticks. I stopped for about ten minutes in the silence, eating a bag of frosties cereal and just looking at the sky. It really was amazing. I could see stars that I have never seen before, including the Pleidaes (sp) which I have only ever seen once before, then just as I was about to continue on my way I saw a shooting star. It was such a magical start to the day, I couldn´t help but feel happy. You can also see mars each morning when you set out as it is at it´s closest to the earth right now. I love looking at the stars so this was a real treat. The funny thing is that yesterday I kept singing "Catch a falling star and put it in your pocket, never let it fade away." no idea why this song was in my head as I had only ever heard it on tv programme Lost, but it made me laugh when I realised. I continued with a spring in my step.
So I had an easy 12.6mile walk to Castrojeriz stopping for a sandwich, cake and coffee which really gave me a boost and I virtually ran the last 9.4km to arrive in a sleepy little town. We are staying at a camp site which has a big room for pilgrims, I think we will be the only two staying here as most seem to have gone further into town. I am looking more and more like a tramp each day, beard and hair are both coming along, I have a big grease patch on the thigh of my trousers still, my white t-shirt is an even dirtier shade of grey and for some reason my clothes have started growing patches of black spots of mould. I shall walk into Santiago looking like a right hobo, I hope they let me in. Tomorrow I walk 15.7miles to Fromista, I hope my cold eases up a little as it just makes me tired. Missing you all.
@ Ksam - Thank you so much for your posts, they are lovely to read. I am glad you are enjoying my blog, it means a lot that someone I don´t even know is enjoying keeping up with my adventure. Hopefully it will give you the urge to get back on the way soon.
@ Dad - I really did think that you guys had lost interest, two weeks had passed since I had gone and I thought you had forgotten about me haha no worries, I understand technology can be a pain. It is nice to leave it behind actually, though I keep thinking about all the video games that are out whilst I am away. Coast to coast seems like a good one then if you haven´t done it. Not sure how long it takes but depending on us both working we should do it. Anyway, hope you are all well. Missing you all very much.
Monday, 3 October 2011
Burgos 22km
Today´s walk was pretty easy. Got 9 hours sleep so I was pretty well rested and quite hyperactive. The way was pretty bad as most of it was at the side of roads and leaing into Burgos was no fun as it was alongside busy roads and through the town outskirts. I felt great but Nadia was getting tired so I was trying to talk rubbish (something I am great at) to take her mind off of it. I started telling her how much faith us pilgrims put in these little yellow arrows which could be painted by anyone and lead anywhere. I then said that maybe they have been painted by a gang of criminals to lure pilgrims to a deadend where they attack and rob them. I then had a great idea for a film called ´The Pilgrimage´ staring Steven Segal as the pilgrim, a man with a history of violence walks the Camino de Santiago to seek redemption for his sins. Along the way he is set upon by a gang of criminals and force once again to turn to his life of violence to rescue a fellow pilgrim from the clutches of these criminals, using nothing but a walking staff. I think it would be more popular than ´The way´.
So here I am in a lovely albergue, very new and clean and pretty big. The only downside is that the facilities are few and far between. A whole floor sharing a handful of showers and one male toilet and one female toilet. Still good though.
So I plan to get another early night tonight for a 13mile walk tomorrow to Hornillos. I still plan to walk the Meseta alone but I am yet to tell Nadia this is my plan. She will have no problem with it but still I find it hard. We have a few tasks to do today so not so much sitting and waiting for dinner. We need a post office, a bank, a pharmacy (for Nadia´s knee) and to find a chinese takeaway for tea as I am really craving it.
Geeling great. No problems, just the odd aching foot but a quick massage on one of my breaks soon sorts that out. Onwards and upwards.
So here I am in a lovely albergue, very new and clean and pretty big. The only downside is that the facilities are few and far between. A whole floor sharing a handful of showers and one male toilet and one female toilet. Still good though.
So I plan to get another early night tonight for a 13mile walk tomorrow to Hornillos. I still plan to walk the Meseta alone but I am yet to tell Nadia this is my plan. She will have no problem with it but still I find it hard. We have a few tasks to do today so not so much sitting and waiting for dinner. We need a post office, a bank, a pharmacy (for Nadia´s knee) and to find a chinese takeaway for tea as I am really craving it.
Geeling great. No problems, just the odd aching foot but a quick massage on one of my breaks soon sorts that out. Onwards and upwards.
Sunday, 2 October 2011
It took ages to get to Ages.
So today me and Nadia decided to walk further than the 15.1miles from Belorado to St. Juan de Ortega and add a further 3.6KM to Ages. This place has a little more to do and is less dead than the previous place. The albergue is very nice, they are burning incense which smells great. I started off in quite a negative mood, this is almost beginning to feel too easy now, the challenge is no longer there. Maybe once I come to the two massive mountains that await me I will wish I hadn´t said anything. The part I hate most is the routine after the walk and then the waiting for tea so I can sleep, I would love to just walk all day if I could take it. The Albergue we were staying in put on a lovely breakfast which gave me lots of energy and my mood lifted after 11.9km. I had so much energy today I was in a very silly mood, I felt like I could have walked on to Burgos! 22km away now. I am craving chinese food so tomorrow in Burgos we are going to go to the information point and ask where there is one. Not much to report on todays walk really. My guide said that it consisted of 3 peaks and 3 descents, it was in reality 1 peak, 1 descent and miles of flat through gorgeous trees. After Burgos I am going back to walking on my own until a longer day comes up and we need each others company. I wanted this trip to give me a lot of thinking time but walking in company makes it difficult, though we walked the 11.9km this morning in silence and I felt a lot happier. I think it lifted my mood to be able to think again, the purpose of my camino. So across the terrible Meseta I will wander through the flat desert, deep in thought. We shall still meet in the evening though. Nadia said to say any time I want to walk alone and she wont be offended but it still seems harsh. I shall tell her though that after Burgos I will be walking alone.
I spent some time thinking about an interesting quote from an albergue I stayed in a few days ago "Let the inner joy you feel act as the compass for your direction in life", this is what I have said I wanted to do. I spent the time trying to think what is my inner joy, what truly makes me happy. I think it needs a bit more thought as what I have so far is beer drinking and sleeping.
Last night´s food was really nice and we ate with a spanish man and a woman from Chile who were walking together. They walk 2 days every now and again and have been walking the camino for 2 years. We were then joined by a late comer who although only spoke Spanish he was the most interesting person I have met so far. Shame it was only for 45 minutes. His name was Felix and this was his 10th Camino (someone was translating) and he walks 60km a day! With only a half hour rest. He was built like bruce lee, only built up of lean muscle. He looked like crocodile dundee and had the bluest eyes that I had ever seen, I couldn´t take my eyes off this guy he just looked so interesting and not spanish at all. He was a vegetarian and only drank a thimble full of wine, he also skipped pudding and just asked for a lemon to have for his breakfast. Apparently he squeezes it into a cup of water and drinks it, that is his breakfast. They didn´t explain everything but they then were talking about how he does these certain things to keep his body balanced by clensing his liver etc and you could tell he took real pride in himself. There was me the complete opposite sat next to him; him lean and eating well and me squidgy round the edges and throw anything into my mouth. He talked more about this neclace he was wearing which was made from a meteorite, he was just interesting. We saw him the next morning (today) and he sped past us, not wearing any socks in his boots. We laughed because he had said he can go so far as he takes it slow, this guy was virtually running. He is probably already in Santiago.
So tomorrow should be a relatively easy walk into Burgos, another big city. I hope I find my chinese!
I also want to say happy belated birthday to my sister. I meant to say it yesterday but it completely slipped my mind once I was on here. Sorry! Hope you had a great day.
I spent some time thinking about an interesting quote from an albergue I stayed in a few days ago "Let the inner joy you feel act as the compass for your direction in life", this is what I have said I wanted to do. I spent the time trying to think what is my inner joy, what truly makes me happy. I think it needs a bit more thought as what I have so far is beer drinking and sleeping.
Last night´s food was really nice and we ate with a spanish man and a woman from Chile who were walking together. They walk 2 days every now and again and have been walking the camino for 2 years. We were then joined by a late comer who although only spoke Spanish he was the most interesting person I have met so far. Shame it was only for 45 minutes. His name was Felix and this was his 10th Camino (someone was translating) and he walks 60km a day! With only a half hour rest. He was built like bruce lee, only built up of lean muscle. He looked like crocodile dundee and had the bluest eyes that I had ever seen, I couldn´t take my eyes off this guy he just looked so interesting and not spanish at all. He was a vegetarian and only drank a thimble full of wine, he also skipped pudding and just asked for a lemon to have for his breakfast. Apparently he squeezes it into a cup of water and drinks it, that is his breakfast. They didn´t explain everything but they then were talking about how he does these certain things to keep his body balanced by clensing his liver etc and you could tell he took real pride in himself. There was me the complete opposite sat next to him; him lean and eating well and me squidgy round the edges and throw anything into my mouth. He talked more about this neclace he was wearing which was made from a meteorite, he was just interesting. We saw him the next morning (today) and he sped past us, not wearing any socks in his boots. We laughed because he had said he can go so far as he takes it slow, this guy was virtually running. He is probably already in Santiago.
So tomorrow should be a relatively easy walk into Burgos, another big city. I hope I find my chinese!
I also want to say happy belated birthday to my sister. I meant to say it yesterday but it completely slipped my mind once I was on here. Sorry! Hope you had a great day.
Saturday, 1 October 2011
In Belorado
So yesterday after I left you I went to the cathedral to see the chickens. The cockerel didn´t crow unfortunately but the ones at the albergue I was staying at did many times as I was washing my clothes, so no worries. We had a nice pilgrims menu of meat and chips again and spaghetti. I virtually swallowed mine whole. I then wrote some postcards and got an early night, I woke up feeling very refreshed and full of energy.
I caught Nadia up who was feeling less enthusiastic and we walked together again. She said there is a German saying "You have bumble bees in your butt" which described my energetic and fidgity mood. We walked quite fast and covered a lot of ground early. We stopped for a coffee and then continued, stoping 4.9km from Belorado for a sandwich. I had only had a bag of dorritos for breakfast (I had been craving them) so this was my breakfast, I ate half and saved the rest to eat soon. I ordered all in Spanish, asking for a ham and cheese sandwich. I was proud. We walked the rest of the way with no real problems. Nadia was saying that we are like an old married couple that sit silently together as they run out of things to say, but we seem to be doing ok so far. We always have something to talk about, me mostly speaking rubbish. Her husband was asking about me, possibly being slightly worried she said. I told her jsut to say how old I was and that I am an idiot and he wont worry any longer. I think it did the job.
So today was a 14.2mile walk that was pretty easy. I was full of energy and well rested. Tomorrow is 15.1miles to St. Juan de Ortega which has a population of 20, apparently a nice place to stay and reflect away from some of these busier places. It looks like a harder walk with a few peaks and troughs. I plan to get an even earlier night tonight, my eye shades and ear plugs really do the job. So far I have walked 148miles, that is pretty crazy, only 342miles left. It really is beginning to fly by now, I am used to the distances a little more and the routine of washing myself and my clothes. The albergue yesterday was fantastic, really really big and had great facilities. We sat for ages on some really comfortable leather sofa and I fell asleep. This places is smaller and a bit more basic but it is a bed for the night which you have to be grateful for.
Thinking about the coast to coast walk or Pennine way in England when I return. Depending on if I am taken back at my old job for Christmas, we shall see. Would be nice to keep this level of walking ability and utilise it to do some walks in England. Heavier pack though due to a tent and cooking equipment.
So that is it really. I am off to eat my Bocadillo con Jamon e (?) queso (sp). Though I need to stop feeding the cats I find along the way. Tried to talk one into following me to Santiago but once the ham had ran out it wasn´t interested anymore, I felt so used.
I caught Nadia up who was feeling less enthusiastic and we walked together again. She said there is a German saying "You have bumble bees in your butt" which described my energetic and fidgity mood. We walked quite fast and covered a lot of ground early. We stopped for a coffee and then continued, stoping 4.9km from Belorado for a sandwich. I had only had a bag of dorritos for breakfast (I had been craving them) so this was my breakfast, I ate half and saved the rest to eat soon. I ordered all in Spanish, asking for a ham and cheese sandwich. I was proud. We walked the rest of the way with no real problems. Nadia was saying that we are like an old married couple that sit silently together as they run out of things to say, but we seem to be doing ok so far. We always have something to talk about, me mostly speaking rubbish. Her husband was asking about me, possibly being slightly worried she said. I told her jsut to say how old I was and that I am an idiot and he wont worry any longer. I think it did the job.
So today was a 14.2mile walk that was pretty easy. I was full of energy and well rested. Tomorrow is 15.1miles to St. Juan de Ortega which has a population of 20, apparently a nice place to stay and reflect away from some of these busier places. It looks like a harder walk with a few peaks and troughs. I plan to get an even earlier night tonight, my eye shades and ear plugs really do the job. So far I have walked 148miles, that is pretty crazy, only 342miles left. It really is beginning to fly by now, I am used to the distances a little more and the routine of washing myself and my clothes. The albergue yesterday was fantastic, really really big and had great facilities. We sat for ages on some really comfortable leather sofa and I fell asleep. This places is smaller and a bit more basic but it is a bed for the night which you have to be grateful for.
Thinking about the coast to coast walk or Pennine way in England when I return. Depending on if I am taken back at my old job for Christmas, we shall see. Would be nice to keep this level of walking ability and utilise it to do some walks in England. Heavier pack though due to a tent and cooking equipment.
So that is it really. I am off to eat my Bocadillo con Jamon e (?) queso (sp). Though I need to stop feeding the cats I find along the way. Tried to talk one into following me to Santiago but once the ham had ran out it wasn´t interested anymore, I felt so used.
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