A day of quiet contemplation in St. Jean

I slept well last night, a lot better than the day before but I still woke up at 5am as I was freezing cold. I jumped out of bed got dressed then back under the sheet for a bitty four hour sleep, at one point I got up to take a picture of the sun rising from behind the Pyrenees though after a thick fog descended. Breakfast was at 9am and it was lovely; bread, ham, cheese, hot chocolate, juice and some kind of cherry chutney was on the menu and it was all local produce. I shared the meal with the other person saying here, a guy in his twenties from Boston he is also setting out tomorrow. Again the conversation was difficult to come by, wish I wasn't so awkward and shy around people I don't know but this is something I am hoping this trip will change. My spirits were low this morning, I laid on my bed for a couple of hours then set out to explore St. Jean.

St. Jean is gorgeous, it really has a medieval feel to it apart from the tourist aspects of the town. I went and got my pilgrim passport, stumbling by with English it all went smoothly. I was so happy to finally have my Credential, I was now a real pilgrim. I then stopped by a pilgrim shop and bought some postcards and a scallop shell to hang on my bag, I really look the part now though there was still one piece missing. I then went and sat in the church (Notre Dame du Bout du pont), I am in no way religious but this little place was gorgeous. The sun shining through the stained glass and leaving coloured light on the floor. Again, I am not religious but it was something I wanted to do; I paid a Euro to light a candle and asked for a safe Camino and the courage I need to make it to Santiago.

I explored the town, visiting all of the shops. I was looking for a walking staff as I wanted one of these rather than two poles but I couldn't find one big enough. The best part of the day came next when I decided to go for a little walk out of town along side a babbling stream (River Nive), I had noticed a small path on the opposite bank and a bridge further ahead and so I knew that I could loop back. It was great, really peaceful and soothing. Lots of little lizards running in the grass and lots of birds. I am not an expert but I definitely saw the brightest Kingfisher I have ever seen and a huge hawk of some kind high in the sky. I sat on a bench half way back into town and just sat for about an hour and a half, listening to the birds and the stream and watching the birds too. It was really relaxing and the sunny weather (24 degrees or so) helped too. I climbed up St. Jean Citadel (the long way with lots of steps rather than a ramp - oops) and the view was breathtaking. I could see for miles and the Pyrenees looked extremely menacing, I will be meeting them tomorrow. I just sat for an hour looking out over St. Jean, contemplating my journey and I drew up a rough plan for the next few days. I walked half of the city ramparts and then stopped for a ham pizza, despite the cleanliness of the place - flies landing on the dough rolling surface, a dog in the kitchen, the chef sneezing in his hands then continuing to make someone's pizza - it was gorgeous. I then found a walking staff, tall enough to be comfortable for my arm and comfortable in my hand.

On the way back to the hotel I bought a bag of cashew nuts and a bag of mixed fruit and nuts to keep my energy up over the next few days. Also apparently it is hard to get food in Roncesvalles (still no idea how to say it) as the population is only 30 people, the kind of place where everyone really does know your name. I sat on a bench, wrote in my diary and then headed back here for a shower and to was my boxers. I had a bit of a dodgy stomach - surely too early for the fly dog sneeze pizza - but I won't go into more detail. By the way, the washing of the boxers and the dodgy stomach is not related i.e. I did not poo myself.

So today has been a great day, not lonely at all. Really at peace and happy, ready for the challenge ahead. I am glad I took today to see St. Jean and get my mind focused rather than setting off today. Tomorrow I have a 3 hour walk ahead of me to Orisson, 8km (Distance not altitude) up the Pyrenees as the opening day is 27km or so but I am splitting it up as its one hell of an opening day. I plan to take it easy for the first few days.

I found out the exact distance to Santiago today - 789.1 km or 490.3 miles. Long way to go.

So here is a rough plan for my next few days - St. Jean to Orisson (8km), Orisson to Roncesvalles (17.1km), Roncesvalles to Zubiri (22.2km), Zubiri to Pampolona (22.1km) and Pampolona to Puente la Reina (22km). So that is the first five days, rough plan obviously as I wont push myself too much. I may stop shorter or go further so we shall see.

Thank you all for you comments, I do read them but I simply do not have time to reply individually. Keep them coming they make being alone easier, though I am feeling confident that I will meet some people over the next two days.

I am looking forward to getting to Spain as I am a lot more comfortable with the Spanish language, I surprised myself with how much I know and I keep going to answer in Spanish rather than French. I will cross into Spain the day after tomorrow half way to Roncesvalles.

I will check in soon, though it may not be for a couple of days. Miss you all.