No the title is not Spurs related, there are cockrels kept in the cathedral here but I shall come to that later. So today I walked 13miles from Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada after a great but interesting night sleep. In my last entry I explained how the bunk beds were very close together, well I didn´t get a big snoring man I got a small attractive Korean girl. I thought all ould be well but at some point in the night she either decided that she wanted a cuddle or my half looked more comfortable. I was literally hanging off the edge of the bed at points as she snuggled up to me, she would then touch me and jump awake, returning to her side of the bed. Despite this I slept well and started at 7:30am. Nadia had gone ahead but we both met after 5.8km (sorry about the mix of miles and km distances, I work in miles but my book works in KM so any details in KM are just read from my book) in the town of Azofra where we had both stopped for breakfast. We were both feeling lethargic after two long days of walking so we decided to walk together.
The walk was easy but my feet ached from the previous two days and what was worse was that my mind was really not in the right place to inspire me to walk today, so it was a hard trudge. The first part of the path was between farmers fields and they obviously had a dislike for pilgrims (probably due to the fruit stealing I mentioned yesterday) and they were bombing down the path in tractors, it was very dangerous. So in the next town of Ciruena we stopped so I could eat the rest of my sandwich (had half in Azofra for breakfast) and a small tin of pringles I bought as a treat in Azofra. This picked up my mood and despite aching feet we flew into Santo Domingo. So it was a good walk and the company was good again. Nadia taught me lots of pidgeon English that they use in German and sayings that don´t make sense such as, when your fly is down "Your trouser shop is open" and instead of saying I don´t care "That´s me sausage", I combined the two and we laughed so hard. We seem to spend most of the time this way, it is good fun. We talk a lot about movies which I think I mentioned and I now have a list of even more movies that I have to see.
So about the cockrel. So basically this place has a story called "The miracle of the cock" and I don´t have time to type it out and Spanish computers are strange, ctrl + t doesn´t work (or ctrl + a for that matter) so I cannot open a new tab to wiki it for you. So if you do not know this story and you want to find out then go and look. But it is basically about how some mans chicken dinner got up off his plate and flew out of the window, I would have sacked the chef personally but they decided this meant they should keep two live fowl in the cathedral. So that is a very rough explanation but they are still there to this day and I am off to have a look at them soon. Apparently if they crow three times as you walk past (or something similar) then you will have a safe journey to Santiago, here´s hoping.
That´s pretty much it I think. I know I don´t explain much about these towns or the particular path that I have walked but at the end of the day I really can´t be bothered and time is short. So I apologise if some of you would rather know more about the places I am traveling rather than just what I am getting up to.
So tomorrow is 14.2 miles to Belorado, should be interesting. I hope that my feet are well rested by then. At least no other part of my body is giving me trouble, I am only experiencing fatigue. So it is all good. I think I am getting used to this though as each day is gathering pace now, it feels like only an hour ago that I was starting out this morning. This is bad, I need to try and stay in the present which is hard especially now parts of this trip have become routine.
I am off now. I need to find a place to eat tonight too, hopefully as good as the place last night. Meat and chips is always a winner.
Friday, 30 September 2011
Thursday, 29 September 2011
Aching feet in Najera
Just finished hanging my clothes out to dry after a quick hand wash and a shower. Arrived at an albergue in Najera, something like 90 odd people in one room and you sleep about 15cm from hte person next to you. It is an ok place and is ran on a donation service. Unfortunately I am not sure if my white t-shirt will make it all the way to santiago as it is already turning a strange grey colour and it has been stained by the red soil of Rioja (sp). I don´t care how scruffy I look but this is something else, I think people will think I am homeless. Not sure I could afford a new one though so I may have to make do. So far I have seen people walking in jeans (!!), dresses (!!!) and people gelling their hair and applying make-up and skin products. Some people even have really nice clothes for the evening, surely their bags are too heavy! I am happy to look like a scruffy pilgrim, some of the Spanish in the bigger towns really stare though I am such a state but I am enjoying it. Pilgrims today were also stealing grapes from some of the fields, I know this topic has been covered on one of the forums I go on but I really didn´t think I would see so many people doing it. It is theft, plain and simple.
So anyway I will fill you in on today. Firstly, I just wanted to let you all know that me and Nadia really struggled to find a pilgrims menu last night, maybe because it was a big city. We ended up eating at Burger King which was gorgeous but bad preperation for a days walk really, needed more carbs. I had a good nights sleep too and we left this morning at 6:45am as everyone was too noisy this morning. It also meant we would be walking less in the heat of the day. So as it was a long distance planned today (18 miles) we said we would walk together again which was nice. We had bought croissants and juice the night before and we sat outside of (I dont have my book with me and I am too sore to get it, a bit delerious maybe as I forget where I was last night) Logrono (?) and sat on a bench overlooking a lake as the sun was rising. It really was beautiful. We had a good walk. We both felt slightly sore from the start due to the long walk yesterday but we were in good spirits. We stopped for a coffee and then continued to Najera (cannot check the spelling due to not having my book). The last stretch was quite tough as our feet were really really sore, and still are. 17miles and then 18miles was new for our bodies and it took a lot of strength. I am glad that I had her to help me along this last stretch, we helped each other. Talking rubbish towards the end to just forget the pain, and all out of water. The good news is that apart from really sore feet my body held up really well, no other aches and pains so I am over the moon. The sense of achievement at reaching this place was huge, despite walking like I have been running across hot coals.
So I am off to get some lunch and find a pilgrims menu for tonight, there is one nearby luckily. I then plan to get a really early night thanks to my ear plugs and eye shades and get a slight lie in to leave at 7:30 for a slow relaxing stroll of 11-13miles (I forget). I will treat my body nicely tomorrow after how well it has performed. I am proud. Not sure where I am walking to as I do not have my book to hand, so appologies. Prickly heat not so bad today which is good and I didn´t burn as I applied suncream a lot better today.
Sorry for the random way this report has been thrown together but I am pretty tired and just want to get fed. Smiling on the inside though, it is great to challenge yourself. How else do you learn your limits without trying to reach them.
Aching feet but high spirits, subdued mood. Hope you are all well.
So anyway I will fill you in on today. Firstly, I just wanted to let you all know that me and Nadia really struggled to find a pilgrims menu last night, maybe because it was a big city. We ended up eating at Burger King which was gorgeous but bad preperation for a days walk really, needed more carbs. I had a good nights sleep too and we left this morning at 6:45am as everyone was too noisy this morning. It also meant we would be walking less in the heat of the day. So as it was a long distance planned today (18 miles) we said we would walk together again which was nice. We had bought croissants and juice the night before and we sat outside of (I dont have my book with me and I am too sore to get it, a bit delerious maybe as I forget where I was last night) Logrono (?) and sat on a bench overlooking a lake as the sun was rising. It really was beautiful. We had a good walk. We both felt slightly sore from the start due to the long walk yesterday but we were in good spirits. We stopped for a coffee and then continued to Najera (cannot check the spelling due to not having my book). The last stretch was quite tough as our feet were really really sore, and still are. 17miles and then 18miles was new for our bodies and it took a lot of strength. I am glad that I had her to help me along this last stretch, we helped each other. Talking rubbish towards the end to just forget the pain, and all out of water. The good news is that apart from really sore feet my body held up really well, no other aches and pains so I am over the moon. The sense of achievement at reaching this place was huge, despite walking like I have been running across hot coals.
So I am off to get some lunch and find a pilgrims menu for tonight, there is one nearby luckily. I then plan to get a really early night thanks to my ear plugs and eye shades and get a slight lie in to leave at 7:30 for a slow relaxing stroll of 11-13miles (I forget). I will treat my body nicely tomorrow after how well it has performed. I am proud. Not sure where I am walking to as I do not have my book to hand, so appologies. Prickly heat not so bad today which is good and I didn´t burn as I applied suncream a lot better today.
Sorry for the random way this report has been thrown together but I am pretty tired and just want to get fed. Smiling on the inside though, it is great to challenge yourself. How else do you learn your limits without trying to reach them.
Aching feet but high spirits, subdued mood. Hope you are all well.
Wednesday, 28 September 2011
A short video for you all (Turn your sound up)
This is from day 2, Orisson to Roncesvalles. Over the Pyrenees it is very peaceful and is one of the days where I got a lot of time to myself. Most places are peaceful but this was really something else as there were no villages, towns, cities or main roads anywhere near. Rally was a magical moment which this video attempts to express in a very crude way. You had to be there. I stood at this spot for about 5-10 minutes just taking in the peace and calm. The sound was very peaceful.
I think I could like out a backpack for the rest of my life if I didn´t miss friends and family. Loving discovering a new landscape each day.
I think I could like out a backpack for the rest of my life if I didn´t miss friends and family. Loving discovering a new landscape each day.
Some pictures. Warning one gross picture
Good internet here despite being a bit expensive. No worries, enjoy.
My heel (No worries it´s all good now)
Puente la Reina
(Guiseppe (sp) and the fountain)
(Pilgrim monument on top of a big hill - Alto del Perdon
Roncesvalles Albergue
Roncesvalles Albergue - Many beds in one room
My heel (No worries it´s all good now)
Puente la Reina
(Guiseppe (sp) and the fountain)
(Pilgrim monument on top of a big hill - Alto del Perdon
Roncesvalles Albergue
Roncesvalles Albergue - Many beds in one room
Coming to you live from Logrono.
So when I last left you I had recently discovered that the skin on my left heel had decided to come away, despite using lots of grease of my feet (teaching grandma how to suck eggs comes to mind). The mistake I did make was to leave the compeeds on for so long. Anyway the next morning I made a plaster for my heel using some breathable mesh and mefix from my first aid kit and it worked a treat. At night I take it off to let it breathe and then patch it up again the next morning. It is getting better and gives me no problems in the day.
So yesterday was a 13.1mile walk from Estella to Los Arcos where we found the two Albergues we wantedto stay in the most were closed so we stayed in a place which was basically a converted house. We relaxed in the town square as there was nothing else to the town and had a pilgrim meal. It was pretty grim as it was cold. I walked with someone else for the first time as previously I have Preferred to walk alone but I walked with a hungarian girl all the way, she then went on to the next town but I had agreed to meet Nadia. Her English was fantastic and we talked constantly about all sorts, it was nice to have someone to talk to for the walk too. At the end my left shin was in so much pain (shin splints?) I was glad to arrive and I was worried about the next day. Nothing else to report about yesterday except that there was a wine fountain just outside of Estella, I was just going to take pictures but a lovely Italian man had me cut his shell off his bag so we had a cup and insisted that I have some and have the first drink despite me arguing otherwise. So I had a shell full of wine but I will continue not drinking, give my gut a rest! Nadia´s knee was better which was great but we were sad as she had planned to stop at Viana the next day, short of Logrono which is where I planned to stay.
I got a great nights sleep and started out at 7am in the dark which was hard because you have no sights to take your mind off the walking and you are very mindful of it. It began to get light and I saw Nadia ahead, actually spelt Naja I think but I am lazy, and we walked the rest of hte way together. A total of 17.8miles. The great thing is that I had no problems at all, no sore knees, no sore shin, no sore heel and all I felt was aching feet at the end which was to be expected. It was nice walking with Nadia as we usually just spend the night together and talking really took my mind off the length. I felt like I could go further actually, so hopefully I should be fine for tomorrows 18mile walk. Nadias knee is also better which is good. I think we talked non-stop, mostly laughing at English sayings and such; slowly, slowly catch a monkey. She is a bit of a nerd like me too so we have a lot in common about films, she actually named her daughter after a Star Trek character so we have a lot in common despite her being ten years older than me. We were saying that although we didn´t really know David for more than 4 days it is sad that he has gone which is weird and that it would be sad to part ways along the Camino too. So far we have been walking the same distances and I think she has decided to follow the steps in my book so we may make it to Santiago together. I think I have genuinely found a friend in Nadia, we have a good laugh and it makes the trip a lot easier.
So I am in extremely high spirits today, despite waiting at the wrong Albergue for 45 minutes before realising that the place we wanted to stay was actually open. Had a great day and no bodily complaints apart from prickly heat and a one sided tan. I may see if Nadia wants to walk together tomorrow too as it is another long one. Absolutely loving this adventure, the sense of achievement each day is great. So much so that 13miles feels a bit like, "13miles, big deal." but today felt like an achievement to arrive with no pain. Just very hot as there was no shade and it was a long stretch in the sun. High 20´s maybe even 30 degrees, can´t wait for the colder area of Galacia. So off to chill, then to find a pilgrim menu. I am not planning any days off as although I have no time limit I have a money limit. Working on 30 euro´s a day which gives me roughly 40 days and I really want to make it to Finisterre (the end of the world) and up the coast to Muxia.
One minute left and I am not paying more as this is the most expensive internet yet. Hope you are all well. Missing you when I am not having so much fun adventuring. So tomorrow onwards to Najera.
So yesterday was a 13.1mile walk from Estella to Los Arcos where we found the two Albergues we wantedto stay in the most were closed so we stayed in a place which was basically a converted house. We relaxed in the town square as there was nothing else to the town and had a pilgrim meal. It was pretty grim as it was cold. I walked with someone else for the first time as previously I have Preferred to walk alone but I walked with a hungarian girl all the way, she then went on to the next town but I had agreed to meet Nadia. Her English was fantastic and we talked constantly about all sorts, it was nice to have someone to talk to for the walk too. At the end my left shin was in so much pain (shin splints?) I was glad to arrive and I was worried about the next day. Nothing else to report about yesterday except that there was a wine fountain just outside of Estella, I was just going to take pictures but a lovely Italian man had me cut his shell off his bag so we had a cup and insisted that I have some and have the first drink despite me arguing otherwise. So I had a shell full of wine but I will continue not drinking, give my gut a rest! Nadia´s knee was better which was great but we were sad as she had planned to stop at Viana the next day, short of Logrono which is where I planned to stay.
I got a great nights sleep and started out at 7am in the dark which was hard because you have no sights to take your mind off the walking and you are very mindful of it. It began to get light and I saw Nadia ahead, actually spelt Naja I think but I am lazy, and we walked the rest of hte way together. A total of 17.8miles. The great thing is that I had no problems at all, no sore knees, no sore shin, no sore heel and all I felt was aching feet at the end which was to be expected. It was nice walking with Nadia as we usually just spend the night together and talking really took my mind off the length. I felt like I could go further actually, so hopefully I should be fine for tomorrows 18mile walk. Nadias knee is also better which is good. I think we talked non-stop, mostly laughing at English sayings and such; slowly, slowly catch a monkey. She is a bit of a nerd like me too so we have a lot in common about films, she actually named her daughter after a Star Trek character so we have a lot in common despite her being ten years older than me. We were saying that although we didn´t really know David for more than 4 days it is sad that he has gone which is weird and that it would be sad to part ways along the Camino too. So far we have been walking the same distances and I think she has decided to follow the steps in my book so we may make it to Santiago together. I think I have genuinely found a friend in Nadia, we have a good laugh and it makes the trip a lot easier.
So I am in extremely high spirits today, despite waiting at the wrong Albergue for 45 minutes before realising that the place we wanted to stay was actually open. Had a great day and no bodily complaints apart from prickly heat and a one sided tan. I may see if Nadia wants to walk together tomorrow too as it is another long one. Absolutely loving this adventure, the sense of achievement each day is great. So much so that 13miles feels a bit like, "13miles, big deal." but today felt like an achievement to arrive with no pain. Just very hot as there was no shade and it was a long stretch in the sun. High 20´s maybe even 30 degrees, can´t wait for the colder area of Galacia. So off to chill, then to find a pilgrim menu. I am not planning any days off as although I have no time limit I have a money limit. Working on 30 euro´s a day which gives me roughly 40 days and I really want to make it to Finisterre (the end of the world) and up the coast to Muxia.
One minute left and I am not paying more as this is the most expensive internet yet. Hope you are all well. Missing you when I am not having so much fun adventuring. So tomorrow onwards to Najera.
Monday, 26 September 2011
A quick one from Estrella
Just finished my routine after a 13.6mile walk. Not much to report apart from I have bad prickly heat on the hands, forearms and neck which is a pain. Also, if you recall, on day one I got a blister on my left heel. It was relatively small but I used a compeed, my sock started to pull it down so I overlapped another on it to keep it down and eventually a third. After 6 days I finally removed it, I think it should have come off sooner. The moisture under the compeed has made all teh skin on my heel come away, quite a big patch. It wasn´t sore today but I had compeeds on. So I plan to let it air today and then I will patch it up with something. Bit of a pain, I think it needs to be patched up as it is fresh and red raw skin there now.
The walk was relatively flat apart from the odd hill. A stretch was on an old roman road which had degraded to just a path of cobble stones which twisted the knees and ankles badly. I didn´t ache much today which was good. I stopped for a coke and pizza 3.7km from Estrella which was a bad idea as I wanted to then relax and not continue. Shouldn´t have stopped for such a big lunch. I dragged my feet for the last 3.7km and my heart wasn´t in it. I´d had enough for today. I also spent 10 minutes staring at what I thought was a dead horse until it moved and made me jump.
So I met up with Nadia again. She was already here as she had a really bad knee, got a support for it and then had to get the bus. We both hope that she is able to continue, she will try tomorrow. Hopefully the knee support will work. 13odd miles tomorrow and then two big ones 17 and an 18. I will see how I feel on the day though and possible cut them short. So that is it. The albergue here is nice, really friendly. It is at a place for mentally handicapped people or something, hopefully they will let me out.
Off for a slow walk around Estrella and a drink (coke or water obviously). Which reminds me tomorrow we pass the wine fountain, will I have the strength to pass by without sampling the delights? We shall see.
The walk was relatively flat apart from the odd hill. A stretch was on an old roman road which had degraded to just a path of cobble stones which twisted the knees and ankles badly. I didn´t ache much today which was good. I stopped for a coke and pizza 3.7km from Estrella which was a bad idea as I wanted to then relax and not continue. Shouldn´t have stopped for such a big lunch. I dragged my feet for the last 3.7km and my heart wasn´t in it. I´d had enough for today. I also spent 10 minutes staring at what I thought was a dead horse until it moved and made me jump.
So I met up with Nadia again. She was already here as she had a really bad knee, got a support for it and then had to get the bus. We both hope that she is able to continue, she will try tomorrow. Hopefully the knee support will work. 13odd miles tomorrow and then two big ones 17 and an 18. I will see how I feel on the day though and possible cut them short. So that is it. The albergue here is nice, really friendly. It is at a place for mentally handicapped people or something, hopefully they will let me out.
Off for a slow walk around Estrella and a drink (coke or water obviously). Which reminds me tomorrow we pass the wine fountain, will I have the strength to pass by without sampling the delights? We shall see.
Sunday, 25 September 2011
A few pictures
Not many as the internet isn´t great but it isn´t as terrible as the other day. I have just picked some at random, will give you some idea of what is actually going on here. Also Nadia just checked into this Albergue so we are having dinner together tonight, this has been a good day despite the start. Shame David has steamed on but I have a feeling that I will see him again, he will probably end up not being able to tear himself away from Rioca (sp) as he likes his wine. I may see him in Santiago though. So enjoy the few pictures, I will try do some more down the line and then stick them all up when I am eventually home.
St. Jean
View from Orisson
Waymarker
France/Spain border
At the side of the path
A more ´basic´albergue
Me entering the centre of Pamplona
A note left specially for me today.
St. Jean 
View from Orisson
Waymarker
France/Spain border
At the side of the path
A more ´basic´albergue
Me entering the centre of Pamplona
A note left specially for me today.Hola from Puente La Reina!
So last time I updated you all I was in low spirits. The following day I woke up and the sleep had fixed me well, I was only a little bit stiff in the knees. I reached Pamplona with no trouble, stopping for a gorgeous breakfast/lunch as I had only had a biscuit and a coffee for breakfast. A lot of the quieter places have vending machines for pilgrims as the cafes aren´t open when we are leaving, but I only had limited change on me. I bought a lollypop too to keep for when morale is low but I accidently washed it, so it is being saved for extremely low morale.
It was great entering Pamplona, as much as I love the peace and serenity of the countryside I am a city boy at heart. I was beaming from ear to ear, I just love the energy of cities and I was greated by a festival. I stood and watched for a bit but then had to fight through the huge crowds, constantly checking my pockets. I checked out the church and then decided that I felt strong. I decided to do the full 13m and push on to Cizur Menor. This last stretch dragged on as the last part always does in the heat of the afternoon but I soon arrived. I jumped into the first albergue I saw which wasn´t the best in town, very basic but only 4euro. Having left Nadia behind and David having left me behind I was very alone, most of the people here were Spanish. I sat and just read ´Lord of the rings: Return of the king´ from their library which is weird as I had spent the day thinking about Lord of the rings and whether Frodo would have made it to Mount Doom if Sam was a snorer, I think not. I felt really lonely and really low despite a good walk. My knees were very stiff but I was in good shape otherwise. I know quitting is not an option as too many people said that I wouldn´t be able to do this and I can´t prove them right.
Dinner was great though, human contact at last. I ate with an Austrian girl and her mother and two Canadians, there are so many Canadians on the Camino. Funny story. His boots had destroyed his toe as he was coming down hill and at his albergue (he was at the better one in town) one of the staff members was a nurse and looked at all the pilgrims feet. She bandaged it for him and then gave him a sanitary towel to put in his boot. Apparently it absorbs the moisture and stops the foot from sliding forward, who would have though it. Made me laugh as I told him he would have to go buy a pack. The waitress was the moodiest woman I have ever met but the food was alright, had pasta and meat starter, chicken and chips main and then ice cream. Still no wine for me. I then had the best night sleep yet but slept past breakfast at 6am this morning oops.
So today I despite my good sleep I woke up with very stiff knees and a sore ankle randomly. I was in a bad place for the first few miles, my head was very negative. I was deep in thought which helped forget the pain. A lot of people say "The camino will provide" in relation to something you need, well it certainly has done that. Call it a coincidence but when you are desperate for something and you are just willing it in your head and then it appears you will believe anything. Day three from Roncesvalles I remember drinking all my water and being so thirsty, I was sucking out the last little bit and I remember actualyl saying aloud "I really really need some water" or something along those lines, I literally finish the sentence and I round the corner and there is a guy selling water from his van. Another example was today walking from Cizur Menor, I suddenly really needed the toilet but the path was so open there was nowhere to go. I was literally desperate and on the verge of something very bad. Just as I rose up the hill to Zariquiegui I saw a porterloo on the edge of town greeting me. It was the most vile toilet I have ever used in my life, eyes streaming and I was slowly suffocating but my god it saved me. It was literally the only place in town. I then grabbed a coffee and a biscuit and then filled my water bladder. My morale was instantly raised, I felt good and continued with a spring in my step. My ankle was good and my knee ached less.
So I have done 11.8m today with a bit of a climb and a descent, through a windfarm. Nothing to say about the last approach to Puente La Reina, my knees were still slightly stiff all the way but I have come to expect that. Nothing I can´t handle at the minute. This Albergue is very nice, it is in the basement of a 3 star hotel and has good services. I have noticed that I have prickly heat though on my feet, left hand and the inside of my right forearm. Quite irritating. Some good news though. After I had followed my usual routine (lay bed, wash self, wash clothes, hang clothes, get lunch) I was leaving the front of the hotel where I had my lunch to come to the computers when I saw someone walking through the car park. It was Nadia. Was great to see someone I know, we caught up but she was off to a Albergue at the other end of town. We are walking to the same place tomorrow though so we may end up at the same Albergue, I will ask her tomorrow which she is going to. I am eating here but I just thought that I should have met her for a pilgrims meal in town. She is a nice girl and it is great to see someone I know from the start. She said that although she doesn´t know me and David that well she was sad to have lost us.
So quite a long entry covering two days. When my spirits are high I can really talk/type. Off to relax before my dinner at 7:30. I hope I sleep well before a 13.6mile walk tomorrow looks relatively flat in comparison to previous days though.
So there you have it. Loving all the comments, not sure when Tottenham play or who but the score would be great (father). Also if you are reading these on facebook and leaving comments I will only see the comment if you leave it here: http://www.drewgoeswalkabout.blogspot.com/
Bad start to the day, over the moon to see it end so well. All is very good in Puente La Reina.
EDIT: I also forgot to say. Yesterday I accidently showerd in the ladies toilet at the Albergue. Oooops.
The way is your destination.
It was great entering Pamplona, as much as I love the peace and serenity of the countryside I am a city boy at heart. I was beaming from ear to ear, I just love the energy of cities and I was greated by a festival. I stood and watched for a bit but then had to fight through the huge crowds, constantly checking my pockets. I checked out the church and then decided that I felt strong. I decided to do the full 13m and push on to Cizur Menor. This last stretch dragged on as the last part always does in the heat of the afternoon but I soon arrived. I jumped into the first albergue I saw which wasn´t the best in town, very basic but only 4euro. Having left Nadia behind and David having left me behind I was very alone, most of the people here were Spanish. I sat and just read ´Lord of the rings: Return of the king´ from their library which is weird as I had spent the day thinking about Lord of the rings and whether Frodo would have made it to Mount Doom if Sam was a snorer, I think not. I felt really lonely and really low despite a good walk. My knees were very stiff but I was in good shape otherwise. I know quitting is not an option as too many people said that I wouldn´t be able to do this and I can´t prove them right.
Dinner was great though, human contact at last. I ate with an Austrian girl and her mother and two Canadians, there are so many Canadians on the Camino. Funny story. His boots had destroyed his toe as he was coming down hill and at his albergue (he was at the better one in town) one of the staff members was a nurse and looked at all the pilgrims feet. She bandaged it for him and then gave him a sanitary towel to put in his boot. Apparently it absorbs the moisture and stops the foot from sliding forward, who would have though it. Made me laugh as I told him he would have to go buy a pack. The waitress was the moodiest woman I have ever met but the food was alright, had pasta and meat starter, chicken and chips main and then ice cream. Still no wine for me. I then had the best night sleep yet but slept past breakfast at 6am this morning oops.
So today I despite my good sleep I woke up with very stiff knees and a sore ankle randomly. I was in a bad place for the first few miles, my head was very negative. I was deep in thought which helped forget the pain. A lot of people say "The camino will provide" in relation to something you need, well it certainly has done that. Call it a coincidence but when you are desperate for something and you are just willing it in your head and then it appears you will believe anything. Day three from Roncesvalles I remember drinking all my water and being so thirsty, I was sucking out the last little bit and I remember actualyl saying aloud "I really really need some water" or something along those lines, I literally finish the sentence and I round the corner and there is a guy selling water from his van. Another example was today walking from Cizur Menor, I suddenly really needed the toilet but the path was so open there was nowhere to go. I was literally desperate and on the verge of something very bad. Just as I rose up the hill to Zariquiegui I saw a porterloo on the edge of town greeting me. It was the most vile toilet I have ever used in my life, eyes streaming and I was slowly suffocating but my god it saved me. It was literally the only place in town. I then grabbed a coffee and a biscuit and then filled my water bladder. My morale was instantly raised, I felt good and continued with a spring in my step. My ankle was good and my knee ached less.
So I have done 11.8m today with a bit of a climb and a descent, through a windfarm. Nothing to say about the last approach to Puente La Reina, my knees were still slightly stiff all the way but I have come to expect that. Nothing I can´t handle at the minute. This Albergue is very nice, it is in the basement of a 3 star hotel and has good services. I have noticed that I have prickly heat though on my feet, left hand and the inside of my right forearm. Quite irritating. Some good news though. After I had followed my usual routine (lay bed, wash self, wash clothes, hang clothes, get lunch) I was leaving the front of the hotel where I had my lunch to come to the computers when I saw someone walking through the car park. It was Nadia. Was great to see someone I know, we caught up but she was off to a Albergue at the other end of town. We are walking to the same place tomorrow though so we may end up at the same Albergue, I will ask her tomorrow which she is going to. I am eating here but I just thought that I should have met her for a pilgrims meal in town. She is a nice girl and it is great to see someone I know from the start. She said that although she doesn´t know me and David that well she was sad to have lost us.
So quite a long entry covering two days. When my spirits are high I can really talk/type. Off to relax before my dinner at 7:30. I hope I sleep well before a 13.6mile walk tomorrow looks relatively flat in comparison to previous days though.
So there you have it. Loving all the comments, not sure when Tottenham play or who but the score would be great (father). Also if you are reading these on facebook and leaving comments I will only see the comment if you leave it here: http://www.drewgoeswalkabout.blogspot.com/
Bad start to the day, over the moon to see it end so well. All is very good in Puente La Reina.
EDIT: I also forgot to say. Yesterday I accidently showerd in the ladies toilet at the Albergue. Oooops.
The way is your destination.
Friday, 23 September 2011
Quick update from Larassona
Quick one as I am on a tight time scale as I only have one euro left in change and that is to get my breakfast from the vending machine, this is a two horse town to say the least.
So I went fruther than Zubiri, I felt great today but it seems that my hereditary bad knees have finally made an apperance. They only ached a little on the actual trail but tonight they are slightly painful and so stiff, lots of ibuprofen gel and tablets. I am in two minds whether I other done it today as it was not till the very end where I felt that I was actually pushing myself beyond comfortable limits. Not pain just aches. So todays walk was 17miles, not bad but I guess for my 3rd day it may have been a little too much. My feet are slightly swollen, I just realised after dinner (gorgeous food, big bowl of pasta starter, gorgeous beef casserole and a yummy rice pudding). Tomorrow I have decided that I am only going about 8miles and I will stop at Pampolona, big city which I didn´t want to spend too much time in but a shorter day is well deserved. I plan to get a haircut and a close cut (or whatever they are called) shave. Internet should be better too for pictures.
This Albergue is not as nice as the other two but its not terrible. Last night was a restless sleep, noisy people and a noisy mind. I started out early this morning - left at 8am - and it was still pretty dark which was nice. The walk today was gorgeous, lovely scenery and the path was friendly to the body too apart from coming down. The last part was in what felt like a desert, past a cement factory and a real drain on morale. My water ran out too so when I found a fountain it was like I had been wandering in the desert for days and had found an oasis, I soaked myself and filled up. I drink too fast. Speaking of drinking, still not touched wine. Apparently I have good restraint. David will likely continue on tomorrow so I wont see him again, I think Nadia stopped in Zubiri so there is a chance she will also stay in Pampolona. Time to make new friends.
Dinner last night was interesting. First time ever I had a whole fish, head, tail and skin. David, Nadia and Susannah (french lady) taught me what to do but I kept being too heavy handed and pulling off ribs with the meat, was really nice though.
So thats in. In a rougher state today, which is a shame as I was in such high spirits all the way along the walk. As I said I really didnt think that I was over doing it. My body may have healed well by the moring, I am exhausted and looking forward to some sleep. Slow plod to Pampolona tomorrow as a treat to my hard working body. Another big albergue tomorrow at a monastery I think which should be interesting.
Hope you are all well, thank you for the messages.
So I went fruther than Zubiri, I felt great today but it seems that my hereditary bad knees have finally made an apperance. They only ached a little on the actual trail but tonight they are slightly painful and so stiff, lots of ibuprofen gel and tablets. I am in two minds whether I other done it today as it was not till the very end where I felt that I was actually pushing myself beyond comfortable limits. Not pain just aches. So todays walk was 17miles, not bad but I guess for my 3rd day it may have been a little too much. My feet are slightly swollen, I just realised after dinner (gorgeous food, big bowl of pasta starter, gorgeous beef casserole and a yummy rice pudding). Tomorrow I have decided that I am only going about 8miles and I will stop at Pampolona, big city which I didn´t want to spend too much time in but a shorter day is well deserved. I plan to get a haircut and a close cut (or whatever they are called) shave. Internet should be better too for pictures.
This Albergue is not as nice as the other two but its not terrible. Last night was a restless sleep, noisy people and a noisy mind. I started out early this morning - left at 8am - and it was still pretty dark which was nice. The walk today was gorgeous, lovely scenery and the path was friendly to the body too apart from coming down. The last part was in what felt like a desert, past a cement factory and a real drain on morale. My water ran out too so when I found a fountain it was like I had been wandering in the desert for days and had found an oasis, I soaked myself and filled up. I drink too fast. Speaking of drinking, still not touched wine. Apparently I have good restraint. David will likely continue on tomorrow so I wont see him again, I think Nadia stopped in Zubiri so there is a chance she will also stay in Pampolona. Time to make new friends.
Dinner last night was interesting. First time ever I had a whole fish, head, tail and skin. David, Nadia and Susannah (french lady) taught me what to do but I kept being too heavy handed and pulling off ribs with the meat, was really nice though.
So thats in. In a rougher state today, which is a shame as I was in such high spirits all the way along the walk. As I said I really didnt think that I was over doing it. My body may have healed well by the moring, I am exhausted and looking forward to some sleep. Slow plod to Pampolona tomorrow as a treat to my hard working body. Another big albergue tomorrow at a monastery I think which should be interesting.
Hope you are all well, thank you for the messages.
Thursday, 22 September 2011
Update on pics
Internet is far too slow here, maybe Pampolona. I imagine a big city will have computers with fast internet. Sorry guys, I have hogged this pc long enough. I will stick a ton up when I am not hogging a machine and when it doesn´t take 3 minutes per jpeg.
Safely over the Pyrenees
Hello everyone from Roncesvalles! I now know how to pronounce it too, bonus!
I am on a time limit so I will try to type quickly and fill you in on the last two days, be prepared for an epic but I will try to skip over irrelevant parts and my grammar etc will most likely be worse than ever.
So Wednesday morning I got up and had breakfast at 8am, (bread, jam, cheese, ham, juice and a hot chocolate). I was joined by two american women who are walking the Camino in parts and I had a lovely conversation with them, it is hard for me now to place my mind back just two days as a lot has happened since then really. Time is strange here, it seems like I have been here years already so keeping a diary is imperative as there is so much to remember, but I digress. So placing myself back two days, it was great to have a lovely discussion over breakfast as I had felt slightly alone and I was worried that I may not make friends along the way, how wrong I was but that is to come.
I left the hotel and began to walk to Orisson 8km, walking through St. Jean and out along a tarmac road. Youthful exuberance got the better of me and I walked this first day too fast the result being a small blister on my left heel but its fine, though I am getting ahead of myself. So I knew this first day (I had split it into two days) was very steep with a nasty descent on the second day but my god was it steep. I was pouring with sweat as I was yet to realise my pace, something I found today and fared better. I finally reached Orisson after just under 3 hours or so. The climb to Orisson was so steep, a real calve stretcher, I was glad of my water bladder but it was empty once I arrived. The Albergue was great, I paid extra for a sandwich to take with me today as there is very little/nothing between Orisson and Roncesvalles. I ordered a sanwich to eat when I arrived too and had two bottles of water...this is all irelevant and I shall get to the important stuff! The hotel sleeps 28 (or so my guide says) but it had room for people to sleep in a tent too. I was in a room with three bunk beds with a girl from Korea and four French people, two together and two alone. I then sat for hours (dinner was at 6:30) and just took in the view, there was literally nothing to do here at all. This was the first time I felt truly lonely as a lot of people were in groups and I can be quite shy till I know people (or unless I am drunk).
At dinner I was sat with 15 French people who have been walking the Camino for four years, not very slowly they just do two weeks a year I just hope they all make it to Santiago. I felt a bit out of the loop, my fault for being so ignorant and not speaking French but the guy from my room spoke to me alittle. At the end of hte table, a place over there were some people that spoke English and I switched seats with the lady next to me. Nadine from Germany, Natasha from France, David from england and two further people who didn´t talk much. I enjoyed getting to know them, although I want to walk alone as I am able to think as I wish but the nights get lonely. Not that night though, I really enjoyed it. We all had to stand up and intorduce ourselves´as you can imagine I was very nervous but I said "Hello I am Drew, and I am walking to Santiago however long it takes me". There were some funny ones but I don´t have time to go into detail and I am sure you are bored of my waffling.
I barely slept that night as 3/4 of the people in my room snored but finally I got off to sleep. I had breakfast and a massive bowl of coffe in the morning and then set out immediately. I found my pace, slowly plodding along or ´Slowly slowly catch a monkey as I kept saying to myself´and none of the hills gave me trouble like the first day. I got slightly burnt the first day, only slightly as it was very hot in France but this morning there was a fair bit of fog. I was expecting another massive climb today but it was a slow climb really, I walked alone all the way and it was great. I stopped for a moment in the middle of a herd of sheep who had bells around their necks, the sound was so relaxing. I then carried on the path and finally reached Spain! The border crossing is just a water tap and a cattle grid pretty much. I sat and hate half my sandwich as I had promised myself a break, had fifteen minutes sitting and resting and had some of my cashew nuts. My body was grateful. There was then a slow ascent, slightly steeper towards the end but nothing like St. Jean to Orisson and I was at the top and next was the descent. This was the worst part as it was so steep, I went down slightly at an angle and switched leading legs now and again which worked well. It was hard but not horrific, it could have been worse I guess. I then reached the bottom and felt like I could skip into town, I had been dreading this first stage. I wondered if I could have done it in one go like a lot of people do, and truth be told at the end of the first day I wanted to continue but I think I would have been dead on my feet at the end. I am in great spirits here and luckily mind is overruling my youthful heart.
I was expecting this albergue to be as described in the book 128 people and limited facilities...how wrong that was. This place could have opened just today, it is so new. Lots of bunks in one room but kind of cornered off into 6´s. I am with David and two french men. I showered and hand washed my clothes again (I am getting the hang of this!). The population of this ´town´is apparently 30 people and you can really tell it is tiny, no people really just pilgrims. No shops just two cafes and the albergue. Obviously this new place has computers too, I am glad as I wanted to check in and let you all know that I made it over the pyrenees in one piece. Tomorrow I am going to Zubiri, I think david is going 3km or so more to the next place (the name escapes me) but I have decided I will assess the situation at Zubiri.
We have booked our diner (me, David and Nadia) and we sat and had a drink. We joined two Canadian people who were at the albergue in Orisson, named Greg and Lynn. Greg is hilarious and looks just like Billy Conely (sp) we all learnt more about each other and it was nice, not alone tonight which is great. The lonely nights make you just want to keep walking but now I am on the path properly I doubt I will be alone, especially at dinner where you talk to whoever is next to you. Which remids me that I completely forgot, dinner last night was lovely at Orisson - vegetable soup, meat, meat and lentil mushy stuff and then the best cake I have ever eaten. There was free win too but I have decided that I am going to stay free of alcohol for this trip, so I just had water. We will see how well my resolve holds out after a long hard day like tomorrow though my legs feel fine at the minute and everything is going great, I am very happy with my small but significant progress.
So that is a rough overview really, some things missed out but those of you that want to know more once I am home will be told more. I am going to put some more money in the machine and then upload a few photos, finally you will see the fantastic sights I have been seeing. I am looking forward - as nice at this place is - to being in a ´proper´albergue, one that has been well used as I do like to rough it, I feel that I have been spoilt with first Orisson and now here.
So nothing much to say apart from, read the next post to see the sights and keep the coments coming. They are very useful and shall propel me to Santiago later into my trip. Love you all.
So to sum up - lovely people, lovely scenery, slightly tired legs but happy heart and soul. Roll on Zubiri.
I am on a time limit so I will try to type quickly and fill you in on the last two days, be prepared for an epic but I will try to skip over irrelevant parts and my grammar etc will most likely be worse than ever.
So Wednesday morning I got up and had breakfast at 8am, (bread, jam, cheese, ham, juice and a hot chocolate). I was joined by two american women who are walking the Camino in parts and I had a lovely conversation with them, it is hard for me now to place my mind back just two days as a lot has happened since then really. Time is strange here, it seems like I have been here years already so keeping a diary is imperative as there is so much to remember, but I digress. So placing myself back two days, it was great to have a lovely discussion over breakfast as I had felt slightly alone and I was worried that I may not make friends along the way, how wrong I was but that is to come.
I left the hotel and began to walk to Orisson 8km, walking through St. Jean and out along a tarmac road. Youthful exuberance got the better of me and I walked this first day too fast the result being a small blister on my left heel but its fine, though I am getting ahead of myself. So I knew this first day (I had split it into two days) was very steep with a nasty descent on the second day but my god was it steep. I was pouring with sweat as I was yet to realise my pace, something I found today and fared better. I finally reached Orisson after just under 3 hours or so. The climb to Orisson was so steep, a real calve stretcher, I was glad of my water bladder but it was empty once I arrived. The Albergue was great, I paid extra for a sandwich to take with me today as there is very little/nothing between Orisson and Roncesvalles. I ordered a sanwich to eat when I arrived too and had two bottles of water...this is all irelevant and I shall get to the important stuff! The hotel sleeps 28 (or so my guide says) but it had room for people to sleep in a tent too. I was in a room with three bunk beds with a girl from Korea and four French people, two together and two alone. I then sat for hours (dinner was at 6:30) and just took in the view, there was literally nothing to do here at all. This was the first time I felt truly lonely as a lot of people were in groups and I can be quite shy till I know people (or unless I am drunk).
At dinner I was sat with 15 French people who have been walking the Camino for four years, not very slowly they just do two weeks a year I just hope they all make it to Santiago. I felt a bit out of the loop, my fault for being so ignorant and not speaking French but the guy from my room spoke to me alittle. At the end of hte table, a place over there were some people that spoke English and I switched seats with the lady next to me. Nadine from Germany, Natasha from France, David from england and two further people who didn´t talk much. I enjoyed getting to know them, although I want to walk alone as I am able to think as I wish but the nights get lonely. Not that night though, I really enjoyed it. We all had to stand up and intorduce ourselves´as you can imagine I was very nervous but I said "Hello I am Drew, and I am walking to Santiago however long it takes me". There were some funny ones but I don´t have time to go into detail and I am sure you are bored of my waffling.
I barely slept that night as 3/4 of the people in my room snored but finally I got off to sleep. I had breakfast and a massive bowl of coffe in the morning and then set out immediately. I found my pace, slowly plodding along or ´Slowly slowly catch a monkey as I kept saying to myself´and none of the hills gave me trouble like the first day. I got slightly burnt the first day, only slightly as it was very hot in France but this morning there was a fair bit of fog. I was expecting another massive climb today but it was a slow climb really, I walked alone all the way and it was great. I stopped for a moment in the middle of a herd of sheep who had bells around their necks, the sound was so relaxing. I then carried on the path and finally reached Spain! The border crossing is just a water tap and a cattle grid pretty much. I sat and hate half my sandwich as I had promised myself a break, had fifteen minutes sitting and resting and had some of my cashew nuts. My body was grateful. There was then a slow ascent, slightly steeper towards the end but nothing like St. Jean to Orisson and I was at the top and next was the descent. This was the worst part as it was so steep, I went down slightly at an angle and switched leading legs now and again which worked well. It was hard but not horrific, it could have been worse I guess. I then reached the bottom and felt like I could skip into town, I had been dreading this first stage. I wondered if I could have done it in one go like a lot of people do, and truth be told at the end of the first day I wanted to continue but I think I would have been dead on my feet at the end. I am in great spirits here and luckily mind is overruling my youthful heart.
I was expecting this albergue to be as described in the book 128 people and limited facilities...how wrong that was. This place could have opened just today, it is so new. Lots of bunks in one room but kind of cornered off into 6´s. I am with David and two french men. I showered and hand washed my clothes again (I am getting the hang of this!). The population of this ´town´is apparently 30 people and you can really tell it is tiny, no people really just pilgrims. No shops just two cafes and the albergue. Obviously this new place has computers too, I am glad as I wanted to check in and let you all know that I made it over the pyrenees in one piece. Tomorrow I am going to Zubiri, I think david is going 3km or so more to the next place (the name escapes me) but I have decided I will assess the situation at Zubiri.
We have booked our diner (me, David and Nadia) and we sat and had a drink. We joined two Canadian people who were at the albergue in Orisson, named Greg and Lynn. Greg is hilarious and looks just like Billy Conely (sp) we all learnt more about each other and it was nice, not alone tonight which is great. The lonely nights make you just want to keep walking but now I am on the path properly I doubt I will be alone, especially at dinner where you talk to whoever is next to you. Which remids me that I completely forgot, dinner last night was lovely at Orisson - vegetable soup, meat, meat and lentil mushy stuff and then the best cake I have ever eaten. There was free win too but I have decided that I am going to stay free of alcohol for this trip, so I just had water. We will see how well my resolve holds out after a long hard day like tomorrow though my legs feel fine at the minute and everything is going great, I am very happy with my small but significant progress.
So that is a rough overview really, some things missed out but those of you that want to know more once I am home will be told more. I am going to put some more money in the machine and then upload a few photos, finally you will see the fantastic sights I have been seeing. I am looking forward - as nice at this place is - to being in a ´proper´albergue, one that has been well used as I do like to rough it, I feel that I have been spoilt with first Orisson and now here.
So nothing much to say apart from, read the next post to see the sights and keep the coments coming. They are very useful and shall propel me to Santiago later into my trip. Love you all.
So to sum up - lovely people, lovely scenery, slightly tired legs but happy heart and soul. Roll on Zubiri.
Tuesday, 20 September 2011
A day of quiet contemplation in St. Jean
I slept well last night, a lot better than the day before but I still woke up at 5am as I was freezing cold. I jumped out of bed got dressed then back under the sheet for a bitty four hour sleep, at one point I got up to take a picture of the sun rising from behind the Pyrenees though after a thick fog descended. Breakfast was at 9am and it was lovely; bread, ham, cheese, hot chocolate, juice and some kind of cherry chutney was on the menu and it was all local produce. I shared the meal with the other person saying here, a guy in his twenties from Boston he is also setting out tomorrow. Again the conversation was difficult to come by, wish I wasn't so awkward and shy around people I don't know but this is something I am hoping this trip will change. My spirits were low this morning, I laid on my bed for a couple of hours then set out to explore St. Jean.
St. Jean is gorgeous, it really has a medieval feel to it apart from the tourist aspects of the town. I went and got my pilgrim passport, stumbling by with English it all went smoothly. I was so happy to finally have my Credential, I was now a real pilgrim. I then stopped by a pilgrim shop and bought some postcards and a scallop shell to hang on my bag, I really look the part now though there was still one piece missing. I then went and sat in the church (Notre Dame du Bout du pont), I am in no way religious but this little place was gorgeous. The sun shining through the stained glass and leaving coloured light on the floor. Again, I am not religious but it was something I wanted to do; I paid a Euro to light a candle and asked for a safe Camino and the courage I need to make it to Santiago.
I explored the town, visiting all of the shops. I was looking for a walking staff as I wanted one of these rather than two poles but I couldn't find one big enough. The best part of the day came next when I decided to go for a little walk out of town along side a babbling stream (River Nive), I had noticed a small path on the opposite bank and a bridge further ahead and so I knew that I could loop back. It was great, really peaceful and soothing. Lots of little lizards running in the grass and lots of birds. I am not an expert but I definitely saw the brightest Kingfisher I have ever seen and a huge hawk of some kind high in the sky. I sat on a bench half way back into town and just sat for about an hour and a half, listening to the birds and the stream and watching the birds too. It was really relaxing and the sunny weather (24 degrees or so) helped too. I climbed up St. Jean Citadel (the long way with lots of steps rather than a ramp - oops) and the view was breathtaking. I could see for miles and the Pyrenees looked extremely menacing, I will be meeting them tomorrow. I just sat for an hour looking out over St. Jean, contemplating my journey and I drew up a rough plan for the next few days. I walked half of the city ramparts and then stopped for a ham pizza, despite the cleanliness of the place - flies landing on the dough rolling surface, a dog in the kitchen, the chef sneezing in his hands then continuing to make someone's pizza - it was gorgeous. I then found a walking staff, tall enough to be comfortable for my arm and comfortable in my hand.
On the way back to the hotel I bought a bag of cashew nuts and a bag of mixed fruit and nuts to keep my energy up over the next few days. Also apparently it is hard to get food in Roncesvalles (still no idea how to say it) as the population is only 30 people, the kind of place where everyone really does know your name. I sat on a bench, wrote in my diary and then headed back here for a shower and to was my boxers. I had a bit of a dodgy stomach - surely too early for the fly dog sneeze pizza - but I won't go into more detail. By the way, the washing of the boxers and the dodgy stomach is not related i.e. I did not poo myself.
So today has been a great day, not lonely at all. Really at peace and happy, ready for the challenge ahead. I am glad I took today to see St. Jean and get my mind focused rather than setting off today. Tomorrow I have a 3 hour walk ahead of me to Orisson, 8km (Distance not altitude) up the Pyrenees as the opening day is 27km or so but I am splitting it up as its one hell of an opening day. I plan to take it easy for the first few days.
I found out the exact distance to Santiago today - 789.1 km or 490.3 miles. Long way to go.
So here is a rough plan for my next few days - St. Jean to Orisson (8km), Orisson to Roncesvalles (17.1km), Roncesvalles to Zubiri (22.2km), Zubiri to Pampolona (22.1km) and Pampolona to Puente la Reina (22km). So that is the first five days, rough plan obviously as I wont push myself too much. I may stop shorter or go further so we shall see.
Thank you all for you comments, I do read them but I simply do not have time to reply individually. Keep them coming they make being alone easier, though I am feeling confident that I will meet some people over the next two days.
I am looking forward to getting to Spain as I am a lot more comfortable with the Spanish language, I surprised myself with how much I know and I keep going to answer in Spanish rather than French. I will cross into Spain the day after tomorrow half way to Roncesvalles.
I will check in soon, though it may not be for a couple of days. Miss you all.
St. Jean is gorgeous, it really has a medieval feel to it apart from the tourist aspects of the town. I went and got my pilgrim passport, stumbling by with English it all went smoothly. I was so happy to finally have my Credential, I was now a real pilgrim. I then stopped by a pilgrim shop and bought some postcards and a scallop shell to hang on my bag, I really look the part now though there was still one piece missing. I then went and sat in the church (Notre Dame du Bout du pont), I am in no way religious but this little place was gorgeous. The sun shining through the stained glass and leaving coloured light on the floor. Again, I am not religious but it was something I wanted to do; I paid a Euro to light a candle and asked for a safe Camino and the courage I need to make it to Santiago.
I explored the town, visiting all of the shops. I was looking for a walking staff as I wanted one of these rather than two poles but I couldn't find one big enough. The best part of the day came next when I decided to go for a little walk out of town along side a babbling stream (River Nive), I had noticed a small path on the opposite bank and a bridge further ahead and so I knew that I could loop back. It was great, really peaceful and soothing. Lots of little lizards running in the grass and lots of birds. I am not an expert but I definitely saw the brightest Kingfisher I have ever seen and a huge hawk of some kind high in the sky. I sat on a bench half way back into town and just sat for about an hour and a half, listening to the birds and the stream and watching the birds too. It was really relaxing and the sunny weather (24 degrees or so) helped too. I climbed up St. Jean Citadel (the long way with lots of steps rather than a ramp - oops) and the view was breathtaking. I could see for miles and the Pyrenees looked extremely menacing, I will be meeting them tomorrow. I just sat for an hour looking out over St. Jean, contemplating my journey and I drew up a rough plan for the next few days. I walked half of the city ramparts and then stopped for a ham pizza, despite the cleanliness of the place - flies landing on the dough rolling surface, a dog in the kitchen, the chef sneezing in his hands then continuing to make someone's pizza - it was gorgeous. I then found a walking staff, tall enough to be comfortable for my arm and comfortable in my hand.
On the way back to the hotel I bought a bag of cashew nuts and a bag of mixed fruit and nuts to keep my energy up over the next few days. Also apparently it is hard to get food in Roncesvalles (still no idea how to say it) as the population is only 30 people, the kind of place where everyone really does know your name. I sat on a bench, wrote in my diary and then headed back here for a shower and to was my boxers. I had a bit of a dodgy stomach - surely too early for the fly dog sneeze pizza - but I won't go into more detail. By the way, the washing of the boxers and the dodgy stomach is not related i.e. I did not poo myself.
So today has been a great day, not lonely at all. Really at peace and happy, ready for the challenge ahead. I am glad I took today to see St. Jean and get my mind focused rather than setting off today. Tomorrow I have a 3 hour walk ahead of me to Orisson, 8km (Distance not altitude) up the Pyrenees as the opening day is 27km or so but I am splitting it up as its one hell of an opening day. I plan to take it easy for the first few days.
I found out the exact distance to Santiago today - 789.1 km or 490.3 miles. Long way to go.
So here is a rough plan for my next few days - St. Jean to Orisson (8km), Orisson to Roncesvalles (17.1km), Roncesvalles to Zubiri (22.2km), Zubiri to Pampolona (22.1km) and Pampolona to Puente la Reina (22km). So that is the first five days, rough plan obviously as I wont push myself too much. I may stop shorter or go further so we shall see.
Thank you all for you comments, I do read them but I simply do not have time to reply individually. Keep them coming they make being alone easier, though I am feeling confident that I will meet some people over the next two days.
I am looking forward to getting to Spain as I am a lot more comfortable with the Spanish language, I surprised myself with how much I know and I keep going to answer in Spanish rather than French. I will cross into Spain the day after tomorrow half way to Roncesvalles.
I will check in soon, though it may not be for a couple of days. Miss you all.
Monday, 19 September 2011
Arrived safely to St. Jean Pied de Port
I have literally just arrived in St. Jean after a long day that began with a lovely free breakfast at the Hotel in Stansted. I had beans and egg on toast with a couple of sausages at about 8:30am. I checked in ok and then just sat and read the paper until it was time to board, which also went smoothly. I had been expecting an upset at some point today during my travels but it was yet to come if there was to be one.
The flight was good, bit of a turbulent landing and the girl next to me kept falling asleep on me. It was lovely flying into Biarritz as you could see how green the area was. The flight took about an hour and twenty minutes. Boarding my flight I couldn't see may other pilgrims but once I had collected my bag there was a fair few of them. I knew where the bus I had to take to Bayonne was and I was expecting the #6 bus as this is what my research had indicated. Instead it was the #14 and I jumped on with everyone else, no big deal. After about an fourty five minutes on the bus we arrived at the Bayonne Train Station. I followed the crowd and grabbed my ticket by testing my French skills by expertly stating where I wanted to go, "St. Jean?".
There was a long wait for the next train and I decided to just sit in the station for the duration and stared into space, watching people come and go. I talked briefly to a woman from Canada doing the Camino with her mother. After about an hour and fifty minutes the train came. It was only a single carriage and it was one that powers itself, nothing to pull it. The ride was lovely though I kept having to fight to stay awake, I barely slept due to excitement last night. I could see the Pyrenees (sp) as we approached St. Jean in a journey that was an hour and twenty minutes long. We traveled most of the way alongside a fast river and I saw a few herons, the scenery was fantastic.
Upon reaching to St. Jean I immediately walked to the place that I have booked for two nights rest. I will be exploring St. Jean tomorrow and getting my Pilgrim Passport which enables me to stay in the Pilgrim only accommodation along the Camino. There is also a Pilgrim museum and I want to check out the shops, I am hoping to get myself a walking staff and a shell too to hang off my bag to let people know I am a pilgrim. The place I am staying is nice, lovely room with a great view. I think there are only two of us tonight and I have a breakfast to look forward to tomorrow. I am absolutely wiped out so I am most likely going to skip dinner for tonight, I just wanted to let you all know that I am safe. I am chuffed that I got here with no problems at all as I was dreading this part of the trip. Over the Pyrenees Tuesday, weather permitting.
I will check in again tomorrow.
The flight was good, bit of a turbulent landing and the girl next to me kept falling asleep on me. It was lovely flying into Biarritz as you could see how green the area was. The flight took about an hour and twenty minutes. Boarding my flight I couldn't see may other pilgrims but once I had collected my bag there was a fair few of them. I knew where the bus I had to take to Bayonne was and I was expecting the #6 bus as this is what my research had indicated. Instead it was the #14 and I jumped on with everyone else, no big deal. After about an fourty five minutes on the bus we arrived at the Bayonne Train Station. I followed the crowd and grabbed my ticket by testing my French skills by expertly stating where I wanted to go, "St. Jean?".
There was a long wait for the next train and I decided to just sit in the station for the duration and stared into space, watching people come and go. I talked briefly to a woman from Canada doing the Camino with her mother. After about an hour and fifty minutes the train came. It was only a single carriage and it was one that powers itself, nothing to pull it. The ride was lovely though I kept having to fight to stay awake, I barely slept due to excitement last night. I could see the Pyrenees (sp) as we approached St. Jean in a journey that was an hour and twenty minutes long. We traveled most of the way alongside a fast river and I saw a few herons, the scenery was fantastic.
Upon reaching to St. Jean I immediately walked to the place that I have booked for two nights rest. I will be exploring St. Jean tomorrow and getting my Pilgrim Passport which enables me to stay in the Pilgrim only accommodation along the Camino. There is also a Pilgrim museum and I want to check out the shops, I am hoping to get myself a walking staff and a shell too to hang off my bag to let people know I am a pilgrim. The place I am staying is nice, lovely room with a great view. I think there are only two of us tonight and I have a breakfast to look forward to tomorrow. I am absolutely wiped out so I am most likely going to skip dinner for tonight, I just wanted to let you all know that I am safe. I am chuffed that I got here with no problems at all as I was dreading this part of the trip. Over the Pyrenees Tuesday, weather permitting.
I will check in again tomorrow.
Sunday, 18 September 2011
Relaxing in the hotel pre-flight
I fly out to Biarritz tomorrow at 12:15 from London Stansted, I looked at the price of trains from Birmingham to London and they were a lot higher than I expected. I then decided to check to see how much it would cost to stay in a hotel instead and it worked out a few pounds cheaper. I decided that this was the best option as it means that I do not have to mess about with trains in the morning and I can just make my way over to the airport without all the stress of getting a train and then the tube.
My lovely mother agreed to drive me to London and my dad came along for the ride too. I realised today that I will be without football for 4-6 weeks, meaning I will miss all of Tottenham's games so I am hoping I will come back to us being 4th in the league and Arsenal in the bottom half. So my we left in the car about 12:30pm and listened to our game on the radio, which makes me a lot more nervous than watching it on tv. We sounded great, but I am not hear to talk about football so I will say no more. We hit Stanstead at about 2:30pm and we stopped at the Mc Donalds for some lunch. I was not expecting the hotel to be so far from the airport, it is walkable but there is not a great deal around here. We ate lunch and then said our goodbyes. I actually got slightly choked up which I was not expecting and there was a massive knot in my stomach, a feeling I have never felt before; the realisation that I am going to miss my parents a great deal and that I take them for granted hit me quite hard. It is easy to take loved ones for granted when they are always there for you and providing for you, I guess that is why I feel slightly unprepared for life after Uni as my parents have supported me so well. I feel that this trip will do me the world of good but it is going to be harder being away from home than I first expected.
So we said goodbye and then I walked to the garage over the road from the hotel and bought a copy of 'National Geographic' as I realised that I had all afternoon and night to kill before bed and very little to do. Upon going into the hotel I realised that they had the football on, result! I watched the last ten minutes and got to see our 4th goal (ended 4-0, Tottenham's goodbye to me) and I got to see the highlights too. I then figured that I should check out my room and I was plesantly surprised, it is great. Funny thing is that I couldn't get any of the lights to work and had to call the front desk. Apparently, the guy spoke to me as if I was stupid it was as if he had known me for years, I had to put my room key into some slot by the door to make all the lights work. I had already been to the toilet in the dark but now I was set.
So then I went back down to watch the Manchester United vs Chelsea game, limiting myself to one pint a half. When I got up for my 2nd pint someone had stolen my chair so I asked a guy near the tv if I could join him. We actually seemed to hit it off, football brings everyone together, his name was 'Al' and he was probably about late 30's early 40's and we discussed football and what we do etc. A large part of this trip and why I wanted to do it alone is because I want to be more outgoing and confident, I felt that this was a good start and set me in good stead for making friends along the Camino. Unfortunately this has meant that I stayed downstairs longer and had a few more pints than I was going to, but it's all good.
So my time is running out on this machine. Off to watch more of the football as Real Madrid are on now. I am considering going to the garage to get a sandwich as the price of the food here is insane (£17 for an 8oz steak, £3.60 a pint). I think Al is coming back down for some grub so I may join him as he seems a nice bloke.
Rambled a fair bit for what was just a quick check in, and seemingly talked about absolutely nothing of great importance. So I will hopefully check in again tomorrow when I get to St. Jean or the day after at the worst.
I hope you are all well.
Adios.
My lovely mother agreed to drive me to London and my dad came along for the ride too. I realised today that I will be without football for 4-6 weeks, meaning I will miss all of Tottenham's games so I am hoping I will come back to us being 4th in the league and Arsenal in the bottom half. So my we left in the car about 12:30pm and listened to our game on the radio, which makes me a lot more nervous than watching it on tv. We sounded great, but I am not hear to talk about football so I will say no more. We hit Stanstead at about 2:30pm and we stopped at the Mc Donalds for some lunch. I was not expecting the hotel to be so far from the airport, it is walkable but there is not a great deal around here. We ate lunch and then said our goodbyes. I actually got slightly choked up which I was not expecting and there was a massive knot in my stomach, a feeling I have never felt before; the realisation that I am going to miss my parents a great deal and that I take them for granted hit me quite hard. It is easy to take loved ones for granted when they are always there for you and providing for you, I guess that is why I feel slightly unprepared for life after Uni as my parents have supported me so well. I feel that this trip will do me the world of good but it is going to be harder being away from home than I first expected.
So we said goodbye and then I walked to the garage over the road from the hotel and bought a copy of 'National Geographic' as I realised that I had all afternoon and night to kill before bed and very little to do. Upon going into the hotel I realised that they had the football on, result! I watched the last ten minutes and got to see our 4th goal (ended 4-0, Tottenham's goodbye to me) and I got to see the highlights too. I then figured that I should check out my room and I was plesantly surprised, it is great. Funny thing is that I couldn't get any of the lights to work and had to call the front desk. Apparently, the guy spoke to me as if I was stupid it was as if he had known me for years, I had to put my room key into some slot by the door to make all the lights work. I had already been to the toilet in the dark but now I was set.
So then I went back down to watch the Manchester United vs Chelsea game, limiting myself to one pint a half. When I got up for my 2nd pint someone had stolen my chair so I asked a guy near the tv if I could join him. We actually seemed to hit it off, football brings everyone together, his name was 'Al' and he was probably about late 30's early 40's and we discussed football and what we do etc. A large part of this trip and why I wanted to do it alone is because I want to be more outgoing and confident, I felt that this was a good start and set me in good stead for making friends along the Camino. Unfortunately this has meant that I stayed downstairs longer and had a few more pints than I was going to, but it's all good.
So my time is running out on this machine. Off to watch more of the football as Real Madrid are on now. I am considering going to the garage to get a sandwich as the price of the food here is insane (£17 for an 8oz steak, £3.60 a pint). I think Al is coming back down for some grub so I may join him as he seems a nice bloke.
Rambled a fair bit for what was just a quick check in, and seemingly talked about absolutely nothing of great importance. So I will hopefully check in again tomorrow when I get to St. Jean or the day after at the worst.
I hope you are all well.
Adios.
Saturday, 17 September 2011
Motivational bits and bobs
When I have told people about my plans most of them have laughed at me or teased me, insisting I won't be able to do it. I think this is a testament to how unlike me this trip is, by myself in a foreign country and walking 500 miles along an ancient pilgrimage route. I am completely out of my comfort zone but then I remember this image which I came across some time ago and it is completely true. I think there is great enjoyment to be had from being scared, out of your depth and pushed to your limits.
The rest all bare the same message really, start living your life. Easy to do in my situation, I have nobody that depends on me, no wife, no kids, no job etc so it is easy for me to just drop everything and live a little. Best for me to take advantage of it whilst I have the chance. Click on images to see them bigger.
And finally an image that I have been describing to a lot of people as it made me laugh. It is taken from the film 'Mr. Bean's Holiday' which I personally think is fantastic but I am a Mr. Bean fan. I do get likened to Mr. Bean which isn't great but I do feel that this particular scene captures how my travels are likely to proceed.
The following are just a few quotes from books, films and the internet which I liked. Felt they were all relevant to me in some way. Unfortunately I don't have the sources for a few which is bad I know, so I apologise for that.
"Find hard work you love doing. If I could offer my eighteen-year-old self some real career advice, I’d tell myself not to base my career choice on other people’s ideas, goals, and recommendations. I’d tell myself not to pick a major because it’s popular, or statistically creates graduates who make the most money. I’d tell myself that the right career choice is based on one key point: Finding hard work you love doing. As long as you remain true to yourself, and follow your own interests and values, you can find success through passion. Perhaps more importantly, you won’t wake up several years later working in a career field you despise, wondering “How the heck am I going to do this for the next 30 years?” So if you catch yourself working hard and loving every minute of it, don’t stop. You’re on to something big. Because hard work ain’t hard when you concentrate on your passions."
"Be who you were born to be. You must follow your heart, and be who you were born to be. Some of us were born to be musicians—to communicate intricate thoughts and rousing feelings with the strings of a guitar. Some of us were born to be poets—to touch people’s hearts with exquisite prose. Some of us were born to be—to create growth and opportunity where others saw rubbish. And still, some of us were born to be or do whatever it is, specifically, that moves you. Regardless of what you decide to do in your lifetime, you better feel it in every fiber of your being. You better be born to do it! Don’t waste your life fulfilling someone else’s dreams and desires."
"The single-mindedness of a pilgrimage, coupled with the excitement of exploration, which seemed very appealing - a way to draw a line under past failures and prepare for the future in a new spirit" (Susie Traver in 'Field of stars')
"I'd like to repeat the advice I gave you before, in that I think you really should make a radical change in your lifestyle and begin to boldly do things which you may previously never have thought of doing, or been too hesitant to attempt. So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity and conservatism, all of which may appear to give one piece of mind, but in reality nothing is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a man's living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun. If you want to get more out of life, Ron, you must lose the inclination for monotonous security and adopt a helter-skelter style of life that will at first appear to you to be crazy. But once you become accustomed to such a life you will see its full meaning and its incredible beauty." ('Into the wild' by Jon Krakauer)
The rest all bare the same message really, start living your life. Easy to do in my situation, I have nobody that depends on me, no wife, no kids, no job etc so it is easy for me to just drop everything and live a little. Best for me to take advantage of it whilst I have the chance. Click on images to see them bigger.
And finally an image that I have been describing to a lot of people as it made me laugh. It is taken from the film 'Mr. Bean's Holiday' which I personally think is fantastic but I am a Mr. Bean fan. I do get likened to Mr. Bean which isn't great but I do feel that this particular scene captures how my travels are likely to proceed.
The following are just a few quotes from books, films and the internet which I liked. Felt they were all relevant to me in some way. Unfortunately I don't have the sources for a few which is bad I know, so I apologise for that.
"Find hard work you love doing. If I could offer my eighteen-year-old self some real career advice, I’d tell myself not to base my career choice on other people’s ideas, goals, and recommendations. I’d tell myself not to pick a major because it’s popular, or statistically creates graduates who make the most money. I’d tell myself that the right career choice is based on one key point: Finding hard work you love doing. As long as you remain true to yourself, and follow your own interests and values, you can find success through passion. Perhaps more importantly, you won’t wake up several years later working in a career field you despise, wondering “How the heck am I going to do this for the next 30 years?” So if you catch yourself working hard and loving every minute of it, don’t stop. You’re on to something big. Because hard work ain’t hard when you concentrate on your passions."
"Be who you were born to be. You must follow your heart, and be who you were born to be. Some of us were born to be musicians—to communicate intricate thoughts and rousing feelings with the strings of a guitar. Some of us were born to be poets—to touch people’s hearts with exquisite prose. Some of us were born to be—to create growth and opportunity where others saw rubbish. And still, some of us were born to be or do whatever it is, specifically, that moves you. Regardless of what you decide to do in your lifetime, you better feel it in every fiber of your being. You better be born to do it! Don’t waste your life fulfilling someone else’s dreams and desires."
"The single-mindedness of a pilgrimage, coupled with the excitement of exploration, which seemed very appealing - a way to draw a line under past failures and prepare for the future in a new spirit" (Susie Traver in 'Field of stars')
"I'd like to repeat the advice I gave you before, in that I think you really should make a radical change in your lifestyle and begin to boldly do things which you may previously never have thought of doing, or been too hesitant to attempt. So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity and conservatism, all of which may appear to give one piece of mind, but in reality nothing is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a man's living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun. If you want to get more out of life, Ron, you must lose the inclination for monotonous security and adopt a helter-skelter style of life that will at first appear to you to be crazy. But once you become accustomed to such a life you will see its full meaning and its incredible beauty." ('Into the wild' by Jon Krakauer)
Packing List
So I have spent the morning packing my things to weight my pack and then unpacking to bug treat my sleeping gear. I am not really a worrier but there are three things I am worried about on the Camino, getting to St. Jean, wild dogs and bed bugs. Now it is not so much that the bed bugs eat you it is more that I really don't want to bring them home with me. So I have treated my sleeping bag, pillow, liner and backpack with anti-bed bug fluid, it doesn't really smell but it is supposed to be lethal to them. So fingers crossed.
So the plan was to keep my backpack as lightweight as possible and as a result I have been brutal. 8kg was the recorded weight which is absolutely fantastic. Anything 10kg and under is supposed to be a winner. I still have a couple of odd items to put in like my glasses and case and my camera charger but it should still be no more than 10kg. I am very happy with that weight as it is not too heavy and I feel like I have packed everything I will need and nothing more. So here is the list...
Zip-off trousers x2
Technical t-shirt x2
Fleece
1000 mile socks x2
Belt
Poncho (Altus poncho, fantastic bit of kit - expensive)
Cycling shorts x2
Boxers (Only one as cycling shorts will be worn all day, so just for the night)
Sun glasses
Sweat band
Diary
Guide book x2 (Brierley guide books, Camino de Santiago and Finisterre/Muxia)
Wallet
Bumbag
Camera + charger (New camera, still have to learn to use it)
Hat (Birthday present off my sister and her husband. Awesome hat but for £40 you expect that)
Foam seat
Ankle gaiters (Possibly unnecessary)
Sleeping bag
Bag liner
Travel pillow (I considered this to be one of my luxuries as I need a good pillow to sleep)
Bug sheet
Microfibre towel
Microfibre flannel
Spanish phrasebook (Brummy Spanish accent)
Cash cards and money
Comfortable sandals for the night (Very lightweight)
Zip bags and plastic bags
Backpack cover (For use transporting my backpack in an attempt to protect it from rough handlers)
2 litre camel back
Toilet paper
Compeeds x10000000 (Got an absolute ton of them for very cheap, so plenty for all)
Hou Loud You oil (Chinese oil to rub on sore muscles, a bit like deepheat. Works a charm)
First aid kit (Lovingly put together by my father, lots of useful bits and bobs which I hope not to use)
Factor 50 suncream (Ginger complexion)
Ibuprofen pills
Ibuprofen cream
Sting cream
Swiss army knife
Lip balm
Nail scissors
Washing line
Small cup
Spork like implement (Fork, spoon and a knife)
Extra pair of laces
Whistle
Pegs
Ear plugs x10000000 (Lightweight so I grabbed a ton, varying types. Hopefully wont hear the snorers)
Led torch
Deodorant roll on (Another luxury perhaps but I don't intend to stink out the albergues)
Hand sanitizer
Travel tooth brush
Tooth paste
Liquid soap (Body, hair and clothes all in one. Perfect)
Lenses x3, lenses case and lens solution
Glasses and case
Travel plug
Vaseline (For greasing feet)
Long list but I think I have done really well to keep it down to 8kg. Please feel free to point out anything I may need that I have forgotten, though I leave for London tomorrow lunchtime. I decided not to take a mobile phone as it is just too heavy and it wont be used. I will be sure to post the exact weight when I add my camera charger and glasses case.
So the plan was to keep my backpack as lightweight as possible and as a result I have been brutal. 8kg was the recorded weight which is absolutely fantastic. Anything 10kg and under is supposed to be a winner. I still have a couple of odd items to put in like my glasses and case and my camera charger but it should still be no more than 10kg. I am very happy with that weight as it is not too heavy and I feel like I have packed everything I will need and nothing more. So here is the list...
Zip-off trousers x2
Technical t-shirt x2
Fleece
1000 mile socks x2
Belt
Poncho (Altus poncho, fantastic bit of kit - expensive)
Cycling shorts x2
Boxers (Only one as cycling shorts will be worn all day, so just for the night)
Sun glasses
Sweat band
Diary
Guide book x2 (Brierley guide books, Camino de Santiago and Finisterre/Muxia)
Wallet
Bumbag
Camera + charger (New camera, still have to learn to use it)
Hat (Birthday present off my sister and her husband. Awesome hat but for £40 you expect that)
Foam seat
Ankle gaiters (Possibly unnecessary)
Sleeping bag
Bag liner
Travel pillow (I considered this to be one of my luxuries as I need a good pillow to sleep)
Bug sheet
Microfibre towel
Microfibre flannel
Spanish phrasebook (Brummy Spanish accent)
Cash cards and money
Comfortable sandals for the night (Very lightweight)
Zip bags and plastic bags
Backpack cover (For use transporting my backpack in an attempt to protect it from rough handlers)
2 litre camel back
Toilet paper
Compeeds x10000000 (Got an absolute ton of them for very cheap, so plenty for all)
Hou Loud You oil (Chinese oil to rub on sore muscles, a bit like deepheat. Works a charm)
First aid kit (Lovingly put together by my father, lots of useful bits and bobs which I hope not to use)
Factor 50 suncream (Ginger complexion)
Ibuprofen pills
Ibuprofen cream
Sting cream
Swiss army knife
Lip balm
Nail scissors
Washing line
Small cup
Spork like implement (Fork, spoon and a knife)
Extra pair of laces
Whistle
Pegs
Ear plugs x10000000 (Lightweight so I grabbed a ton, varying types. Hopefully wont hear the snorers)
Led torch
Deodorant roll on (Another luxury perhaps but I don't intend to stink out the albergues)
Hand sanitizer
Travel tooth brush
Tooth paste
Liquid soap (Body, hair and clothes all in one. Perfect)
Lenses x3, lenses case and lens solution
Glasses and case
Travel plug
Vaseline (For greasing feet)
Long list but I think I have done really well to keep it down to 8kg. Please feel free to point out anything I may need that I have forgotten, though I leave for London tomorrow lunchtime. I decided not to take a mobile phone as it is just too heavy and it wont be used. I will be sure to post the exact weight when I add my camera charger and glasses case.
What is the Camino de Santiago?
So I figured that I should provide some more information on what it is that I am actually doing. Some of you will already know as I will have told you in full or you will have walked it yourself and have found my blog through the Camino de Santiago forum I frequent.
Although I am not religious in the slightest the Camino de Santiago is actually an ancient pilgrimage route though people walk it for a number of reasons, religion, sport and spirituality just three examples.
"The Way of St. James has existed for over a thousand years. It was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during medieval times, together with Rome and Jerusalem, and a pilgrimage route on which a plenary indulgence could be earned; other major pilgrimage routes include the Via Francigena to Rome and the pilgrimage to Jerusalem.
Legend holds that St. James's remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain where he was buried on the site of what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela.
Today tens of thousands of Christian pilgrims and many other travellers set out each year from their front doorstep, or popular starting points across Europe, to make their way to Santiago de Compostela. Most travel by foot, some by bicycle, and a few travel as some of their medieval counterparts did, on horseback or by donkey (for example, the British author and humorist Tim Moore). In addition to people undertaking a religious pilgrimage, the majority are travellers and hikers who walk the route for non-religious reasons: travel, sport, or simply the challenge of weeks of walking in a foreign land. Also, many consider the experience a spiritual adventure to remove themselves from the bustle of modern life. It acts as a retreat for many modern pilgrims." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James)
There are many routes to Santiago (any path to Santiago is a pilgrim's path) but the route I am taking starts from St. Jean Pied de Port which is just inside the French border. I fly out to Biarritz on Monday, get a bus to Bayonne and then a train to St. Jean. This is the bit that I am dreading the most as I don't speak a word of French and I have to navigate buses and trains. The first day of the Camino takes you over the Pyrennese and is considered the hardest day, with a lot of people over doing it and getting injured which ends their pilgrimage. I have decided to split up the walk from St. Jean to Roncesvalles (which is 15.6 miles) into two smaller manageable chunks, stopping half way to avoid over doing it. The route then travels across northern Spain and ends at Santiago.
This is a map of the route:
The route is clearly marked with sign posts which display a Scallop shell symbol which is the symbol of the Camino de Santiago.
"The scallop shell also acts as a metaphor. The grooves in the shell, which come together at a single point, represent the various routes pilgrims traveled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb of James in Santiago de Compostela. The shell is also a metaphor for the pilgrim. As the waves of the ocean wash scallop shells up on the shores of Galicia, God's hand also guided the pilgrims to Santiago." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James)
I also will be carrying a guide book with maps and a description of the route so there is no need to fear that I will get lost! As I said before, the greatest risk of getting lost will be whilst trying to get to St. Jean.
The Camino is quite accessible in terms of accommodation. Often quite crude and cheap, the hostels which accommodate for the Pilgrims often consist of rooms full of bunk beds. Snoring and noisy early risers are a big problem (multiple ear plugs packed) and rooms are often full of people. I am sure I read a report that there is one hostel which hosts 100 people in one room in close proximity. These are simply meant to act as a refuge for the night so pilgrims can rest and hit the road refreshed the following day.
"In Spain and France, pilgrim's hostels with beds in dormitories dot the common routes, providing overnight accommodation for pilgrims who hold a credencial (see below). In Spain this type of accommodation is called a refugio or albergue, both of which are similar to youth hostels or hostelries in the French system of gîtes d'étape.
Staying at hostels usually cost between five and nine euros per night per bed in a dormitory, although a few hostels known as donativos operate on voluntary donations. Pilgrims are usually limited to one night's accommodation and are expected to leave by eight in the morning to continue their pilgrimage.
Hostels may be run by the local parish, the local council, private owners, or pilgrims' associations. Occasionally these refugios are located in monasteries, such as the one run by monks in Samos, Spain and the one in Santiago de Compostela." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James)
Once I have reached Santiago I plan on walking an extra 80km to Finisterra which was thought to be the edge of the world when the world was thought to be flat. I think that it is more of a symbolic end to the Camino as reaching the sea really draws a close to the pilgrimage. I then plan on walking up the coast to Muxia which is supposed to be a stunning walk. Once I have reached Muxia I will get a bus back to Santiago and book my plane home, unless I can find any way of prolonging my trip. I will serious consider taking on any work along the way to simply ensure that I can afford to continue walking, where after Muxia I do not know.
This is a map of the route from Santiago to Finisterra and Muxia:
"Most pilgrims carry a document called the credencial, purchased for a few euros from a Spanish tourist agency, a church on the route or from their church back home. The credencial is a pass which gives access to inexpensive, sometimes free, overnight accommodation in refugios along the trail. Also known as the "pilgrim's passport", the credencial is stamped with the official St. James stamp of each town or refugio at which the pilgrim has stayed. It provides walking pilgrims with a record of where they ate or slept, but also serves as proof to the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago that the journey is accomplished according to an official route. The stamped credencial is also necessary if the pilgrim wants to obtain a compostela, a certificate of completion of the pilgrimage.
The compostela is a certificate of accomplishment given to pilgrims on completing the Way. To earn the compostela one needs to walk a minimum of 100 km or cycle at least 200 km. In practice, for walkers, that means starting in the small city of Sarria, for it has good transportation connections via bus and rail to other places in Spain. Pilgrims arriving in Santiago de Compostela who have walked at least the last 100 km, or cycled 200 km to get there (as indicated on their credencial), are eligible for the compostela from the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago.The pilgrim passport is examined for stamps and dates. If a key stamp is missing, the compostela may be refused. The pilgrim can state whether the goal of his Camino was 'religous', 'religous and other' or just 'other'. In the case of 'other'a compostelate in Spanish is given asking for blessing of this heathen. In the other cases a compostelate in Latin is given. The Pilgrim Office of Santiago awards more than 100,000 compostelas a year to pilgrims from over 100 countries." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James)
So hopefully now you know what I am attempting to do and will understand some of the terminology that I will use in my posts. I apologise for the copied information from Wikipedia but as I have previously stated, time is short. I have tried to cover everything but anything I have missed I will be sure to post.
If you want more information the following website is very useful: http://www.caminodesantiago.me.uk/
Although I am not religious in the slightest the Camino de Santiago is actually an ancient pilgrimage route though people walk it for a number of reasons, religion, sport and spirituality just three examples.
"The Way of St. James has existed for over a thousand years. It was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during medieval times, together with Rome and Jerusalem, and a pilgrimage route on which a plenary indulgence could be earned; other major pilgrimage routes include the Via Francigena to Rome and the pilgrimage to Jerusalem.
Legend holds that St. James's remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain where he was buried on the site of what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela.
Today tens of thousands of Christian pilgrims and many other travellers set out each year from their front doorstep, or popular starting points across Europe, to make their way to Santiago de Compostela. Most travel by foot, some by bicycle, and a few travel as some of their medieval counterparts did, on horseback or by donkey (for example, the British author and humorist Tim Moore). In addition to people undertaking a religious pilgrimage, the majority are travellers and hikers who walk the route for non-religious reasons: travel, sport, or simply the challenge of weeks of walking in a foreign land. Also, many consider the experience a spiritual adventure to remove themselves from the bustle of modern life. It acts as a retreat for many modern pilgrims." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James)
There are many routes to Santiago (any path to Santiago is a pilgrim's path) but the route I am taking starts from St. Jean Pied de Port which is just inside the French border. I fly out to Biarritz on Monday, get a bus to Bayonne and then a train to St. Jean. This is the bit that I am dreading the most as I don't speak a word of French and I have to navigate buses and trains. The first day of the Camino takes you over the Pyrennese and is considered the hardest day, with a lot of people over doing it and getting injured which ends their pilgrimage. I have decided to split up the walk from St. Jean to Roncesvalles (which is 15.6 miles) into two smaller manageable chunks, stopping half way to avoid over doing it. The route then travels across northern Spain and ends at Santiago.
This is a map of the route:
The route is clearly marked with sign posts which display a Scallop shell symbol which is the symbol of the Camino de Santiago.
"The scallop shell also acts as a metaphor. The grooves in the shell, which come together at a single point, represent the various routes pilgrims traveled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb of James in Santiago de Compostela. The shell is also a metaphor for the pilgrim. As the waves of the ocean wash scallop shells up on the shores of Galicia, God's hand also guided the pilgrims to Santiago." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James)
I also will be carrying a guide book with maps and a description of the route so there is no need to fear that I will get lost! As I said before, the greatest risk of getting lost will be whilst trying to get to St. Jean.
The Camino is quite accessible in terms of accommodation. Often quite crude and cheap, the hostels which accommodate for the Pilgrims often consist of rooms full of bunk beds. Snoring and noisy early risers are a big problem (multiple ear plugs packed) and rooms are often full of people. I am sure I read a report that there is one hostel which hosts 100 people in one room in close proximity. These are simply meant to act as a refuge for the night so pilgrims can rest and hit the road refreshed the following day.
"In Spain and France, pilgrim's hostels with beds in dormitories dot the common routes, providing overnight accommodation for pilgrims who hold a credencial (see below). In Spain this type of accommodation is called a refugio or albergue, both of which are similar to youth hostels or hostelries in the French system of gîtes d'étape.
Staying at hostels usually cost between five and nine euros per night per bed in a dormitory, although a few hostels known as donativos operate on voluntary donations. Pilgrims are usually limited to one night's accommodation and are expected to leave by eight in the morning to continue their pilgrimage.
Hostels may be run by the local parish, the local council, private owners, or pilgrims' associations. Occasionally these refugios are located in monasteries, such as the one run by monks in Samos, Spain and the one in Santiago de Compostela." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James)
Once I have reached Santiago I plan on walking an extra 80km to Finisterra which was thought to be the edge of the world when the world was thought to be flat. I think that it is more of a symbolic end to the Camino as reaching the sea really draws a close to the pilgrimage. I then plan on walking up the coast to Muxia which is supposed to be a stunning walk. Once I have reached Muxia I will get a bus back to Santiago and book my plane home, unless I can find any way of prolonging my trip. I will serious consider taking on any work along the way to simply ensure that I can afford to continue walking, where after Muxia I do not know.
This is a map of the route from Santiago to Finisterra and Muxia:
"Most pilgrims carry a document called the credencial, purchased for a few euros from a Spanish tourist agency, a church on the route or from their church back home. The credencial is a pass which gives access to inexpensive, sometimes free, overnight accommodation in refugios along the trail. Also known as the "pilgrim's passport", the credencial is stamped with the official St. James stamp of each town or refugio at which the pilgrim has stayed. It provides walking pilgrims with a record of where they ate or slept, but also serves as proof to the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago that the journey is accomplished according to an official route. The stamped credencial is also necessary if the pilgrim wants to obtain a compostela, a certificate of completion of the pilgrimage.
The compostela is a certificate of accomplishment given to pilgrims on completing the Way. To earn the compostela one needs to walk a minimum of 100 km or cycle at least 200 km. In practice, for walkers, that means starting in the small city of Sarria, for it has good transportation connections via bus and rail to other places in Spain. Pilgrims arriving in Santiago de Compostela who have walked at least the last 100 km, or cycled 200 km to get there (as indicated on their credencial), are eligible for the compostela from the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago.The pilgrim passport is examined for stamps and dates. If a key stamp is missing, the compostela may be refused. The pilgrim can state whether the goal of his Camino was 'religous', 'religous and other' or just 'other'. In the case of 'other'a compostelate in Spanish is given asking for blessing of this heathen. In the other cases a compostelate in Latin is given. The Pilgrim Office of Santiago awards more than 100,000 compostelas a year to pilgrims from over 100 countries." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James)
So hopefully now you know what I am attempting to do and will understand some of the terminology that I will use in my posts. I apologise for the copied information from Wikipedia but as I have previously stated, time is short. I have tried to cover everything but anything I have missed I will be sure to post.
If you want more information the following website is very useful: http://www.caminodesantiago.me.uk/
Friday, 16 September 2011
Introduction
Welcome to my blog.
This is my first blog so excuse me if I ramble. Please forgive my sloppy grammar and spelling also.
As most of you will already know me I will only post a brief introduction about myself, though if you feel that you know me well then feel free to skip this post. I am 23 year old recently graduated photography student - inactive, beer gut, speak only two languages (English and bad English) and never been abroad by myself . I have never really had a life goal or life plan, and I have never known what I want to do with myself. This has led me to make career decisions almost at random, such as A-levels and Uni Degrees, and I have found that the best course of action seems to be to pursue a path in something that you enjoy. I originally started a degree in Computer Science as I was told it would make me a lot of money but I hated every second of it and so I dropped out and began a photography degree.
I am not the most intelligent, highly motivated or confident person ever and so this has often resulted in me kind of drifting along in life, slightly unsure of myself. I find myself at a cross roads without any idea of what direction to take.
So this this leads me to the purpose of this blog. I decided during the last months of my degree that I wasn't ready to enter 'the real world' as I have lived at home for 23 years, have always been well looked after by my parents and I feel a bit unprepared. This coupled with the fact that I have to decide what to do with my life led me to the decision that I was going to go on an epic adventure. A trip that would be a baptism of fire and an odyssey unlike anything that I have ever done before. So I am off to walk the Camino de Santiago (The way of Saint James), an 800km (approx 500 mile) ancient pilgrimage route that stretches across northern Spain.
I stumbled upon the walk on the internet during the last few months of my degree and I took the plunge. I booked plane tickets and began to buy the necessary equipment. Mostly people have laughed at my plans, insisting that I will never make it to Santiago but being stubborn this will only spur me on. (Like when I began a paper round and my immediate family laughed and teased, saying I wouldn't stick it a week. I stuck it for around 9 years, sure showed them!).
Training wise I am virtually completely unprepared. I have been practising my beer arm instead in celebration of completing my degree. Luckily I have no time limit as I have not booked a return ticket so I can really take my time. A few of my closest are worried about my lack of training but I figure I can just take my time and break myself in slowly.
So this blog was created with the sole intention of recording my journey across Spain and ensuring that everyone at home could keep up with me. I do not intend to phone home as I want to be fully independent for the duration of my walk, so this blog will be the only way people at home will know that I haven't been ravaged by wild dogs (or old Spanish ladies). I will be posting regularly (as near to daily as possible) as internet access is frequently available along the Camino, and pictures will be posted where technology permits.
Whether you know me personally or not I hope that you all enjoy keeping track as I stumble across Spain, completely out of my depth in an attempt to 'find myself' on a trip that promises to be both physically and mentally challenging.
Thank you for reading and look out for my next two posts ('What is the Camino de Santiago?' and 'My packing list') before I depart on Monday.
Be sure to bookmark me, subscribe or look out for the posts on Facebook.
This is my first blog so excuse me if I ramble. Please forgive my sloppy grammar and spelling also.
As most of you will already know me I will only post a brief introduction about myself, though if you feel that you know me well then feel free to skip this post. I am 23 year old recently graduated photography student - inactive, beer gut, speak only two languages (English and bad English) and never been abroad by myself . I have never really had a life goal or life plan, and I have never known what I want to do with myself. This has led me to make career decisions almost at random, such as A-levels and Uni Degrees, and I have found that the best course of action seems to be to pursue a path in something that you enjoy. I originally started a degree in Computer Science as I was told it would make me a lot of money but I hated every second of it and so I dropped out and began a photography degree.
I am not the most intelligent, highly motivated or confident person ever and so this has often resulted in me kind of drifting along in life, slightly unsure of myself. I find myself at a cross roads without any idea of what direction to take.
So this this leads me to the purpose of this blog. I decided during the last months of my degree that I wasn't ready to enter 'the real world' as I have lived at home for 23 years, have always been well looked after by my parents and I feel a bit unprepared. This coupled with the fact that I have to decide what to do with my life led me to the decision that I was going to go on an epic adventure. A trip that would be a baptism of fire and an odyssey unlike anything that I have ever done before. So I am off to walk the Camino de Santiago (The way of Saint James), an 800km (approx 500 mile) ancient pilgrimage route that stretches across northern Spain.
I stumbled upon the walk on the internet during the last few months of my degree and I took the plunge. I booked plane tickets and began to buy the necessary equipment. Mostly people have laughed at my plans, insisting that I will never make it to Santiago but being stubborn this will only spur me on. (Like when I began a paper round and my immediate family laughed and teased, saying I wouldn't stick it a week. I stuck it for around 9 years, sure showed them!).
Training wise I am virtually completely unprepared. I have been practising my beer arm instead in celebration of completing my degree. Luckily I have no time limit as I have not booked a return ticket so I can really take my time. A few of my closest are worried about my lack of training but I figure I can just take my time and break myself in slowly.
So this blog was created with the sole intention of recording my journey across Spain and ensuring that everyone at home could keep up with me. I do not intend to phone home as I want to be fully independent for the duration of my walk, so this blog will be the only way people at home will know that I haven't been ravaged by wild dogs (or old Spanish ladies). I will be posting regularly (as near to daily as possible) as internet access is frequently available along the Camino, and pictures will be posted where technology permits.
Whether you know me personally or not I hope that you all enjoy keeping track as I stumble across Spain, completely out of my depth in an attempt to 'find myself' on a trip that promises to be both physically and mentally challenging.
Thank you for reading and look out for my next two posts ('What is the Camino de Santiago?' and 'My packing list') before I depart on Monday.
Be sure to bookmark me, subscribe or look out for the posts on Facebook.
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