Only of interest to the family I suppose but as this is my only means of communication here it is.
I managed to get a room for two nights at an old convent or something, right next to the cathedral on the 4th floor (thanks ksam). It was only 23euro a night too so I am over the moon, great price for a private room and right in the middle of all the action. It is luxury really, I nearly cried with happiness at the sight of a real towel in the bathroom. Still a bunkbed but at least I get the bottom, picture me struggling to the top these past few days after 29miles when I can barely stand.
Unrelated for a second. Does anyone know if you can get Aquarius drink in England? Absolutely hooked on the stuff, especially the lemon one.
I fly back on Friday at 10am, landing at 11am. So tomorrow I may get a bus to finisterre or I may just bum around, this internet cafe is quite affordable. The pain is that I then have to wait around at the airport until 3pm so I can catch a national express bus back to Tamworth which arrives at 8:45pm at the bus depot. I will jump on a bus so I should be knocking on my frontdoor by about 9:20pm. I hope someone is in!
Happier now all that is sorted. I did a spot of shopping and bought myself a camino tshirt. I wanted one anyway but the bonus is that is saves me having to do any washing.
Wednesday 19 October 2011
Quest Complete: Walk 490.3miles from St. Jean to Santiago
So I am here and I have done it. Not sure how I feel yet as I have not had time to let it all sink in, my head is crammed full of thoughts and I think I have been through every emotion possibly upon arriving here. So to fill you in on the last two days.
I last posted in Palas de Rei and the next day I walked 29miles to Arca do Pino. It was a very difficult walk as I already had the previous days 29miles in my bones. It was the hardest day yet actually but it was nice to finally have a hard time of it in a way, how can it be a pilgrimage without a bit of pain. The pain came from my aches just simply getting that bad, just tired jelly legs. Where my boots are degrading they have given me a blister on the heel of my right foot which means it hurts to set my foot down. After awhile of just setting my foot down and ignoring the pain I don't really feel it anymore but I kept catching myself subconsiously walking on the ball of my right foot. This is where the real pain came from as this seemed to really tire my right ankle and knee. My right calf was also in a bit of pain. I carried on, trying to use my foot properly but it was a losing battle as once I began to admire the scenery I started walking funny again.
So I borke my camera too. The previous night it managed to jump off the top of my bunk, suicidal I think. There is not a scratch on it but I think there is an internal break as it just wont capture images properly. I kept trying to be positive, telling myself that accidents happen, at least I still have all my images and at least I could still walk but really I was gutted. I bought a desposable camera to try and catalogue my entry into Santiago. Bag of sh*t. I missed so many good photo opportunities. I don't really remember much from that day, think I was just really in a negative place due to my camera and my troubles. I really wanted to just get to Santaigo and get home but it was hard to walk my usual pace so I had to settle for a slow crawl. I kept telling myself, "It doesn't matter how slow I go I will just walk until I get there and I will get there eventually". I didn't see much of the town as I went straight to the albergue and only left to go to the shop nextdoor. The bunk I was on was literally falling apart, I darent move on it.
So I woke up at 5am, the plan was to slip out quietly and avoid the crowds. It worked, too well actually. The first few hours were through some really dense eucalyptus forrests. They were pitch black and my torch was on its last legs. This was the creepiest part of the camino by far. Things falling off trees. Animals making noises. My eyes seeing things that weren't there. It was all fun though. After awhile my right leg started to give me some trouble again, becoming as hard as yesterday to walk. It also began to rain! I had gone all this way without a drop and now on my last day it rains. I would not be beaten. Overheating I took off my jumper and continued in a t-shirt, no need for my poncho. So finally I made it into Sandiago. Not sure if I am underwhelmed. In a way I guess I am as it is just another city to me, and the cathedral (Lichfield's impresses me more) is just another religious building. The mass was just another Spanish ceremony, with as far as I am concerned, odd traditions. That said, they swing a huge incense burner from the roof really high and fast, that was cool. I went to see St. James' casket after the mass and then I came here to look at flights. I have already grabbed my compestela (certificate) and I decided against Finisterre and Muxia. I am not sure when or how I am getting back yet but I am about to explore all options.
So I really need to think about it all really. The whole point of this pilgrimage was not religious or to get to Santiago, especially towards the end when it became a pilgrimage to get home. I could have been walking in any country and towards any end point, completely cliche but it really was the journey that I was interested in. The journey has mainly been a good one until these last two days, and it certainly hasn't been for nothing. I have grown as a person, not spiritually as many claim to but I am a more confident and strong person. The physical improvement can't be over looked either. I am not entirely sure what I was looking for with this trip, I didn't have a question which I sought an answer to. I think it was just an accessible way to travel. Now the reason behind this want to travel I guess comes down to wanting to 'find' myself who am i, what do I want etc and I think in that respect it has been a success. I have always known that I have these hidden depths that I only expose when I am good and ready but it is good to see how much I am capable of. I think I have changed for the better, maybe only slightly but there has been a change.
So would I do it again? He types as his right calf muscle throbs. I certianly would and I intend to, I was planning it yesterday to try and escape the pain. I think it will be a different trip though. Not one of solitute where I aim to improve myself as a person or to understand myself and what direction I should take with my life, but a more lighthearted one where I can go with a friend or my father (may have to wait until retirement kicks in for that) and not take it too seriously. I loved every minute of the camino, even these last two days, when I admit a little bit of cursing did slip out. I think next time I will try to stop and smell the roses a little more, that is something I have had highlighted to myself, my impatience. Once I wanted to be home I was unable to walk the short stages in my book and wait for it to arrive, I had to go out and get it. I think next time I will take some of home with me in the form of a friend and stay in contact with home more than just through a blog. I never knew I would be one to get homesick but I guess I am now, only after a month too but as I have said before walking everday really stretches time out. I barely rememeber home.
I am rambling now. I am sure I will post another one or two posts when I have had time to reflect more. I appreciate all of the help and support you have given me, especially these last few days.
Gutted my camera was unable to capture Santiago. I will have to scan the prints I get when I develop my disposeable.
I have learnt lots of little lessons and lots of things about myself. I think I need time to think and get my head clear now. I know, a camino would provide me with the perfect opportunity to clear my head. Back to St. Jean! Just kidding.
I last posted in Palas de Rei and the next day I walked 29miles to Arca do Pino. It was a very difficult walk as I already had the previous days 29miles in my bones. It was the hardest day yet actually but it was nice to finally have a hard time of it in a way, how can it be a pilgrimage without a bit of pain. The pain came from my aches just simply getting that bad, just tired jelly legs. Where my boots are degrading they have given me a blister on the heel of my right foot which means it hurts to set my foot down. After awhile of just setting my foot down and ignoring the pain I don't really feel it anymore but I kept catching myself subconsiously walking on the ball of my right foot. This is where the real pain came from as this seemed to really tire my right ankle and knee. My right calf was also in a bit of pain. I carried on, trying to use my foot properly but it was a losing battle as once I began to admire the scenery I started walking funny again.
So I borke my camera too. The previous night it managed to jump off the top of my bunk, suicidal I think. There is not a scratch on it but I think there is an internal break as it just wont capture images properly. I kept trying to be positive, telling myself that accidents happen, at least I still have all my images and at least I could still walk but really I was gutted. I bought a desposable camera to try and catalogue my entry into Santiago. Bag of sh*t. I missed so many good photo opportunities. I don't really remember much from that day, think I was just really in a negative place due to my camera and my troubles. I really wanted to just get to Santaigo and get home but it was hard to walk my usual pace so I had to settle for a slow crawl. I kept telling myself, "It doesn't matter how slow I go I will just walk until I get there and I will get there eventually". I didn't see much of the town as I went straight to the albergue and only left to go to the shop nextdoor. The bunk I was on was literally falling apart, I darent move on it.
So I woke up at 5am, the plan was to slip out quietly and avoid the crowds. It worked, too well actually. The first few hours were through some really dense eucalyptus forrests. They were pitch black and my torch was on its last legs. This was the creepiest part of the camino by far. Things falling off trees. Animals making noises. My eyes seeing things that weren't there. It was all fun though. After awhile my right leg started to give me some trouble again, becoming as hard as yesterday to walk. It also began to rain! I had gone all this way without a drop and now on my last day it rains. I would not be beaten. Overheating I took off my jumper and continued in a t-shirt, no need for my poncho. So finally I made it into Sandiago. Not sure if I am underwhelmed. In a way I guess I am as it is just another city to me, and the cathedral (Lichfield's impresses me more) is just another religious building. The mass was just another Spanish ceremony, with as far as I am concerned, odd traditions. That said, they swing a huge incense burner from the roof really high and fast, that was cool. I went to see St. James' casket after the mass and then I came here to look at flights. I have already grabbed my compestela (certificate) and I decided against Finisterre and Muxia. I am not sure when or how I am getting back yet but I am about to explore all options.
So I really need to think about it all really. The whole point of this pilgrimage was not religious or to get to Santiago, especially towards the end when it became a pilgrimage to get home. I could have been walking in any country and towards any end point, completely cliche but it really was the journey that I was interested in. The journey has mainly been a good one until these last two days, and it certainly hasn't been for nothing. I have grown as a person, not spiritually as many claim to but I am a more confident and strong person. The physical improvement can't be over looked either. I am not entirely sure what I was looking for with this trip, I didn't have a question which I sought an answer to. I think it was just an accessible way to travel. Now the reason behind this want to travel I guess comes down to wanting to 'find' myself who am i, what do I want etc and I think in that respect it has been a success. I have always known that I have these hidden depths that I only expose when I am good and ready but it is good to see how much I am capable of. I think I have changed for the better, maybe only slightly but there has been a change.
So would I do it again? He types as his right calf muscle throbs. I certianly would and I intend to, I was planning it yesterday to try and escape the pain. I think it will be a different trip though. Not one of solitute where I aim to improve myself as a person or to understand myself and what direction I should take with my life, but a more lighthearted one where I can go with a friend or my father (may have to wait until retirement kicks in for that) and not take it too seriously. I loved every minute of the camino, even these last two days, when I admit a little bit of cursing did slip out. I think next time I will try to stop and smell the roses a little more, that is something I have had highlighted to myself, my impatience. Once I wanted to be home I was unable to walk the short stages in my book and wait for it to arrive, I had to go out and get it. I think next time I will take some of home with me in the form of a friend and stay in contact with home more than just through a blog. I never knew I would be one to get homesick but I guess I am now, only after a month too but as I have said before walking everday really stretches time out. I barely rememeber home.
I am rambling now. I am sure I will post another one or two posts when I have had time to reflect more. I appreciate all of the help and support you have given me, especially these last few days.
Gutted my camera was unable to capture Santiago. I will have to scan the prints I get when I develop my disposeable.
I have learnt lots of little lessons and lots of things about myself. I think I need time to think and get my head clear now. I know, a camino would provide me with the perfect opportunity to clear my head. Back to St. Jean! Just kidding.
Monday 17 October 2011
29.3 miles to Palas de Rei - Only 42.3miles left to Santiago
So I decided last night whilst eating a beautiful pilgrims menu that I was going to combine another two stages. As much as I am enjoying this walk I just feel like I am ready to go home now. I plan to hit Santiago on Wednesday and then decide about Finisterre. I am either going to walk it and get a bus back on Saturday, hanging about the Cathedral at 7pm to surprise David and Nadia or I am going to jump on a plane Thursday or Friday, possibly visiting Finisterre by bus. I just feel that each day doesn't bring anything new. I find that the nearer we get to Santiago the less considerate and unfriendly people are. The Camino was absolutely packed this morning though I did accidently oversleep until 7am. I had to really race along to out walk the crowds. That is the good thing about doing a long day as by the time I start the second stage of the two I am combining, the Camino is virtually empty. A downside is that the Albergues are often full when I turn up at 6pm, but I manage to find somewhere.
The food was great last night, as I said it smelt. I gave it 6* out of 5, it was that good. Minestroni soup, meatballs and chips and some triffle thing. It all seemed home made. I am unsure why I was the only one having the menu. So I decided that I am done here now and I just want to get to Santiago. So tomorrow the plan is to walk 29.7miles to Arco do Pino, if I am up to it. Then Wednesday I will leave early and stroll 12.5miles into Santiago. I looked at the distances I have done over the last few days:
19.4
29.7
19.2
18.7
24.8
29.3
Pretty good going.
So today. As I overslept I ate my breakfast as I walked which was a half eaten ham and cheese Bocadillo from yesterday. The Camino was so crowded, counting 17 people right in front of me which I had to squeeze past and over take. I tried to enjoy the moonlight walk through a lovely forrest but it was hard with the crowds. Again everywhere smelt like sh*t which was lovely. I came across a lovely little cat sat on a wall, I think he had a home as it looked well fed and clean. He was such a pest! He loved being stroked and he climbed up the front of me and sat on my backpack. I took a few pictures and then realised he was chewing on the collar of my fleece and on the tassles of my bag. Took me ages to get him off. I would post the pictures but this place is closing soon. They will be among all the others when I get home. The only other exciting thing was bumping into someone from Orisson. Jane the South African who was walking with her son Mike, not sure if I mentioned them. I hadn't seen her since Puerte la Reina. Mike left her at Burgos as he only had so long but she planned to go all the way. After 400km she got bad tendinitus (sp) and so got a taxi to Sarria and is walking the last 100km over 10 days. It is such a shame, I hope she makes it. She is in so much pain but she battles on. Again it made me think how lucky I have been.
I stopped for some lunch after 30.2km and had a massive plate of chips, fried egg, bacon and pork. It was great and gave me the energy to go on. Not much to report about the walk. It went through some gorgeous forrests but a lot of it was along the road. I didn't really talk to anyone today. Had a lot of brief conversations but nothing further. The first Albergue I went to was full and I had to wait about 15-20minutes for someone to turn up to check me in at the next one. Very basic, one toilet between a room of 8. The girl on the bunk behind me keeps putting her rucksack against the ladder and putting her jumper over the rungs. I had to move her jumper to climb up but she has put it back. One example of how people just don't seem to be aware of others. It was never like this before, maybe I happened to be walking the same stages as a lot of nice thoughtful pilgrims but I have now left them behind.
So that is it. All being well I will be posting from Arco do Pino. My last long walk before Santiago and even if I go to Finisterre the longest will be 19miles. So close now, strange that it is nearly finished. Feels like I have been walking for months. Will be strange to go back to normality, will miss walking rediculous distances each day but as I said, I am ready to go home now.
The food was great last night, as I said it smelt. I gave it 6* out of 5, it was that good. Minestroni soup, meatballs and chips and some triffle thing. It all seemed home made. I am unsure why I was the only one having the menu. So I decided that I am done here now and I just want to get to Santiago. So tomorrow the plan is to walk 29.7miles to Arco do Pino, if I am up to it. Then Wednesday I will leave early and stroll 12.5miles into Santiago. I looked at the distances I have done over the last few days:
19.4
29.7
19.2
18.7
24.8
29.3
Pretty good going.
So today. As I overslept I ate my breakfast as I walked which was a half eaten ham and cheese Bocadillo from yesterday. The Camino was so crowded, counting 17 people right in front of me which I had to squeeze past and over take. I tried to enjoy the moonlight walk through a lovely forrest but it was hard with the crowds. Again everywhere smelt like sh*t which was lovely. I came across a lovely little cat sat on a wall, I think he had a home as it looked well fed and clean. He was such a pest! He loved being stroked and he climbed up the front of me and sat on my backpack. I took a few pictures and then realised he was chewing on the collar of my fleece and on the tassles of my bag. Took me ages to get him off. I would post the pictures but this place is closing soon. They will be among all the others when I get home. The only other exciting thing was bumping into someone from Orisson. Jane the South African who was walking with her son Mike, not sure if I mentioned them. I hadn't seen her since Puerte la Reina. Mike left her at Burgos as he only had so long but she planned to go all the way. After 400km she got bad tendinitus (sp) and so got a taxi to Sarria and is walking the last 100km over 10 days. It is such a shame, I hope she makes it. She is in so much pain but she battles on. Again it made me think how lucky I have been.
I stopped for some lunch after 30.2km and had a massive plate of chips, fried egg, bacon and pork. It was great and gave me the energy to go on. Not much to report about the walk. It went through some gorgeous forrests but a lot of it was along the road. I didn't really talk to anyone today. Had a lot of brief conversations but nothing further. The first Albergue I went to was full and I had to wait about 15-20minutes for someone to turn up to check me in at the next one. Very basic, one toilet between a room of 8. The girl on the bunk behind me keeps putting her rucksack against the ladder and putting her jumper over the rungs. I had to move her jumper to climb up but she has put it back. One example of how people just don't seem to be aware of others. It was never like this before, maybe I happened to be walking the same stages as a lot of nice thoughtful pilgrims but I have now left them behind.
So that is it. All being well I will be posting from Arco do Pino. My last long walk before Santiago and even if I go to Finisterre the longest will be 19miles. So close now, strange that it is nearly finished. Feels like I have been walking for months. Will be strange to go back to normality, will miss walking rediculous distances each day but as I said, I am ready to go home now.
Sunday 16 October 2011
Happy chappy in Sarria
Yes so I shouldn't be here yet but I will get to that, I am afraid that I got the hunger for another long one. I just seem to enjoy these days more, it is a nice challenge and I like arriving late. So I have two days to update you on, I will try and keep it short as I am hungry.
So saturday I did 18.7miles from Villafranca up to O'cebreiro which was a very tough but enjoyable walki. I found it steeper than the Pyrenees to be honest. I really enjoyed the walk, great views and despite walking alongside a road for most the day the views were great. The countryside in Galicia is very much like england, very green and it stinks of sh*t. I passed through some remarkable little villages, places I could imagine living and I felt like I was walking back home, it was great. It is tough to remember all of the details of this walk as it was a day ago and my diary is upstairs. I enjoyed the steep climb, the tactic I prefer is to really attack the climb and to fly up it. This was great fun, jumping over rocks and battling against the climb. My legs felt fine but It was a real challenge for my cardio fitness, I was pouring sweat and out of breath but it felt great. The path led through trees which was lovely but breathing was hard as I was attacked by flies and the stench of the cow sh*t that covered the floor. Not far from the top the presence of all the sh*t was explained as I rounded a corner to see 6 cows being herded down towards me by a man with a stick and a dog. I went back round the corner where it was slightly wider and stood on the edge of the path, I did panic slightly though when the cows came right at me and nearly knocked me off. I find most places now stink of sh*t, especially the smaller villages which are basically just farms. The smell really attacks your nostrils. Finally I got to the top and to O'cebreiro which was a lovely little place but very touristy (just making up words now), it was a small taster of Santiago I felt. The albergue was nice enough, no doors on the shower cubicles and the window gave the people outside a great view into the showers. I felt good afterwards, just stiff bum muscles and stiff back of my thighs. I ate with David, Rose and Nadia which was nice, we had a good laugh. Apparently I don't need to drink to be hilarious. We all agreed that on Saturday we will all meet outside the cathedral in Santiago at 7pm, we don't have to but it gives us a way of meeting if we want to.
So this morning I set off on an empty stomach and in the light of the moon. It was a lovely walk, through creepy dark forrests and along tracks that gave a great view over the mountains. I was walking alone again which was great. I always start off slowly, being overtaken by everyone and then about 9:30 I wake up and pick up the pace, often catching everyone back up. I stopped and got a coffee and some pastries which helped. I don't remember exactly when but at some point I began walking with a girl from Holland, we talked about Tottenham's wonderful talisman from the Netherlands. She was a nice girl and had started in Leon but she had walked it before. We had lunch together at Triacastela 13.2miles which was todays stage but it was only 12pm so I decided to go on, as did Linda (the girl from Holland). We got talking to a guy called John from England, we ended up walking together for some time as we seemed to have a lot in common. He had been travelling for 4 months or something and was a really intelligent guy, very nice too. He stopped for lunch so I waited for Linda and we carried on. I am loving meeting all these new people, it is so unlike me to just speak to people. Even if this confidence is hte only thing I take home to England it will be a great prize. A few km after Triacastela we were terrorised by an idiot on a crossbike, this really shook Linda up as she had been hit by one back in Holland. She had a really bad time of it, barely escaping brain damage and really struggling to return to normality. This left her visibly shaken and I could tell she wasn't happy. I tried to comfort her but it was difficult, I am not a psychologist. She began to walk really slow and as much as I wanted to shoot off I wanted to stay and make sure she was ok. Eventually she said that I should go on so she can sit and 'contemplate' so she can feel better, she is into meditation and holistic therapy etc so maybe this is what she meant. I did as she said and I sped off to Sarria. I had lost about an hour and a half but it was nice to walk with someone new, just a shame it had to end like that. I am sure I will see her along the way, just hope she is ok. My water soon ran out and it was a very hot day, passing through more farmvillages I was unable to find any water and being a Sunday most cafes were closed. I finally found one that was open and drank two bottles of Aquarius (some weird drink Linda was drinking, was quite nice), a coke and a litre and a half of water. I really needed that. I finally reached Sarria after a total of 40km/24.8miles and it felt good. I had to climb about a billion steps to get to the albergue which was fantastic. The albergue is nice, expensive for what is provided though (10euro for very basic facilities but the cooking smells great). I am in a huge bed in a room with a bunk bed sleeping a girl from London and one from America. They are nice.
Tomorrow I will do 13.9miles to Potomarin. I plan to take it easy (I say this every time) and relax. I have left David and Nadia behind but it was the right thing to do. I have learnt not to get too attached to the same people as it becomes too comfortable. I like being on my own and I meet a lot more interesting people this way.
Oh and I ate cabbage soup which was filled with all kinds of vegetables. Go me.
So saturday I did 18.7miles from Villafranca up to O'cebreiro which was a very tough but enjoyable walki. I found it steeper than the Pyrenees to be honest. I really enjoyed the walk, great views and despite walking alongside a road for most the day the views were great. The countryside in Galicia is very much like england, very green and it stinks of sh*t. I passed through some remarkable little villages, places I could imagine living and I felt like I was walking back home, it was great. It is tough to remember all of the details of this walk as it was a day ago and my diary is upstairs. I enjoyed the steep climb, the tactic I prefer is to really attack the climb and to fly up it. This was great fun, jumping over rocks and battling against the climb. My legs felt fine but It was a real challenge for my cardio fitness, I was pouring sweat and out of breath but it felt great. The path led through trees which was lovely but breathing was hard as I was attacked by flies and the stench of the cow sh*t that covered the floor. Not far from the top the presence of all the sh*t was explained as I rounded a corner to see 6 cows being herded down towards me by a man with a stick and a dog. I went back round the corner where it was slightly wider and stood on the edge of the path, I did panic slightly though when the cows came right at me and nearly knocked me off. I find most places now stink of sh*t, especially the smaller villages which are basically just farms. The smell really attacks your nostrils. Finally I got to the top and to O'cebreiro which was a lovely little place but very touristy (just making up words now), it was a small taster of Santiago I felt. The albergue was nice enough, no doors on the shower cubicles and the window gave the people outside a great view into the showers. I felt good afterwards, just stiff bum muscles and stiff back of my thighs. I ate with David, Rose and Nadia which was nice, we had a good laugh. Apparently I don't need to drink to be hilarious. We all agreed that on Saturday we will all meet outside the cathedral in Santiago at 7pm, we don't have to but it gives us a way of meeting if we want to.
So this morning I set off on an empty stomach and in the light of the moon. It was a lovely walk, through creepy dark forrests and along tracks that gave a great view over the mountains. I was walking alone again which was great. I always start off slowly, being overtaken by everyone and then about 9:30 I wake up and pick up the pace, often catching everyone back up. I stopped and got a coffee and some pastries which helped. I don't remember exactly when but at some point I began walking with a girl from Holland, we talked about Tottenham's wonderful talisman from the Netherlands. She was a nice girl and had started in Leon but she had walked it before. We had lunch together at Triacastela 13.2miles which was todays stage but it was only 12pm so I decided to go on, as did Linda (the girl from Holland). We got talking to a guy called John from England, we ended up walking together for some time as we seemed to have a lot in common. He had been travelling for 4 months or something and was a really intelligent guy, very nice too. He stopped for lunch so I waited for Linda and we carried on. I am loving meeting all these new people, it is so unlike me to just speak to people. Even if this confidence is hte only thing I take home to England it will be a great prize. A few km after Triacastela we were terrorised by an idiot on a crossbike, this really shook Linda up as she had been hit by one back in Holland. She had a really bad time of it, barely escaping brain damage and really struggling to return to normality. This left her visibly shaken and I could tell she wasn't happy. I tried to comfort her but it was difficult, I am not a psychologist. She began to walk really slow and as much as I wanted to shoot off I wanted to stay and make sure she was ok. Eventually she said that I should go on so she can sit and 'contemplate' so she can feel better, she is into meditation and holistic therapy etc so maybe this is what she meant. I did as she said and I sped off to Sarria. I had lost about an hour and a half but it was nice to walk with someone new, just a shame it had to end like that. I am sure I will see her along the way, just hope she is ok. My water soon ran out and it was a very hot day, passing through more farmvillages I was unable to find any water and being a Sunday most cafes were closed. I finally found one that was open and drank two bottles of Aquarius (some weird drink Linda was drinking, was quite nice), a coke and a litre and a half of water. I really needed that. I finally reached Sarria after a total of 40km/24.8miles and it felt good. I had to climb about a billion steps to get to the albergue which was fantastic. The albergue is nice, expensive for what is provided though (10euro for very basic facilities but the cooking smells great). I am in a huge bed in a room with a bunk bed sleeping a girl from London and one from America. They are nice.
Tomorrow I will do 13.9miles to Potomarin. I plan to take it easy (I say this every time) and relax. I have left David and Nadia behind but it was the right thing to do. I have learnt not to get too attached to the same people as it becomes too comfortable. I like being on my own and I meet a lot more interesting people this way.
Oh and I ate cabbage soup which was filled with all kinds of vegetables. Go me.
Friday 14 October 2011
Good company on the way to Villafranca del Bierzo - 19.2miles
Pretty long one again. Sorry for waffling. Maybe print it off and read it before bed.
I woke up at 6:00 this morning as breakfast was at 6:30. I hadn't slept very well, I think it was a combination between a very full stomach and so much exercise. My legs felt fine though, the odd slight ache but nothing as bad as I should be feeling. I just hope it is not a case of the aches hitting me a day late, this would not be fun heading up O'Cebreiro. That said, I don't mind the ascents as you can really throw yourself into the mountain and speed up them. With the descent you have to take it a lot slower as the path is usually quite dangerous, this kills the thighs and knees.
Breakfast was ok, 3euro for two pieces of toast and a coffee. I was just grateful to get something inside of me though as I felt that my stomach had made light work of last nights haul of food in order to repair my poor legs. Again I had jam, really starting to get a taste for all this weird food now. I like to try more things now, who would have thought that salad wouldn't kill me. Crazy.
So I set off in the dark, making myself go slow despite feeling good. I knew that I owed that much to my body after yesterday. The waymarks out of Molinaseca were terrible and I had a hard time, as did others, of getting out of the place. Finally I was on the way into Ponferrada, slowly but surely. Paul and Brian passed me, telling me that I needed to up the pace. Brian said he was 65 and was flying. Paul said that my 23 year old knees must be feeling it after yesterday, he tapped on his special knee mechanism (he has no knee cartilage and it keeps the bones locked in place) and said not to worry as they have the technology to keep me going. They are really friendly guys. I love Americans but I must admit that I think the Canadians are just begining to edge it, sorry if there are any Americans reading! Blame the very anti-english American I met on the camino, the only person so far I have not liked.
Anyway. I resisted the urge to rise to the bait and I continued slowly. I was proud of my ability to do this, I find that I surprise myself in someway each day. Some small like this, some huge like yesterday. Ponferrada was terrible to navigate and I got slightly lost, bluddy big citites, but I found out later that I wasn't the only one. I stopped for a coke as I needed the toilet, my choice of establishment was possibly not the best as it was slightly too posh for a pilgrim such as me. I didn't care but I got the feeling that my presence was not cared for. I finally fought my way out of the city and someone caught me up, David. We then walked the rest of the day together, finally catching up. It was a lovely walk and great fun. He had been walking with a girl from Brighton who I met in Roncesvalles, which seems another lifetime ago. He is good fun, and he made me laugh by picking any and every fruit off the trees he walks past. Despite it being against my morals David seemed quite happy to do it. I think he ate a grocery stores worth of fruit including some very strange apple things which I suspect were not apples at all. We stopped for lunch in another lovely town, I had a pizza to completely contrast against yesterdays meager lunch.
The walk was easy enough, a few ascents and descents, but these molehills were nothing compared to that which I battled yesterday. Today was probably my 3rd favourite walk so far. Yesterdays two stages were my favourite, then the Pyrenees which I split into two stages but am counting as one. The scenery was beautiful, wine fields for as far as the eye could see and mountains providing a suitably breathtaking backdrop. I just couldn't stop commenting on the view, it really was beautiful. I have a feeling that these last stages are going to be the best of the Camino if they continue the precident. I am very excited to walk them and I have decided to stick to the stages in my book now, take it slow and really enjoy the walks. 8 stages till I reach Santiago, so close I can smell the incense.
Villafranca is a gorgeous town, another of my favourites along the camino I think. The albergue we are staying at is very clean and modern but slightly lame. There are no hand washing facilities for clothes, only a 7 euro charge to have your stuff cleaned. I decided to stick one to the man and walk for a 2nd day in a smelly kit. The crowds of the Camino shall part before me like the red sea before moses. Also no internet so I have scoured the town for internet just to let you all know that I managed todays long stage ok after yesterday. I know one person who likes to worry, so consider this entry just for you. The funny part was somehow entering Villafranca before Paul and Brian after all their comments about me being too slow today.
The walk tomorrow takes me up to 1,300meters and over a total distance of 30.1km or 18.7miles and the next day takes us down again. Don't worry you will not be logging on to see that I have done the mountain in one day and done 32miles. I am looking forward to this walk, the views should be amazing. Tomorrow we enter Galacia, people have told me that this is where the magic on the Camino begins. For me it has already begun, I am not sure that I can expect much more than I have already witnessed.
I plan to walk alone again tomorrow, probably meeting David at the end of the day. I have a feeling that the next 7 days are going to be quite special. Well saying that, the next 11 days as I have worked out that by cutting two stages I will just about be able to afford to go to Finisterre and Muxia. I just can't get enough of this walking business now, maybe I should walk home! Very excited to be able to walk to the sea, my boots which were dark blue are now red with dust. I love these boots but they shall need to be thrown away at the end of the Camino as I have already worn the heels down to the inside of the shoe. I must be a sloppy walker. I plan to buy myself a pair of the same boots though, really have done me well. I actually decided to send an email to North Face to congratulate them on a good pair of boots. Maybe if I mention the heel ware they will send me a free pair?
Oh I also forgot to mention an experience I had yesterday. As I was walking up the mountain in a solitary part of the path I rounded a corner to find a girl walking in her underwear. She was walking in front of me for a good few minutes and I was desperately trying to inspect the floor before me. They then stopped and she was very friendly, she was from Scotland. We talked briefly and I had to have the strenth of a saint to maintain eye contact with her, lets just say that walking in underwear does a very bad job of keeping everything where it should be. I have seen some people walking in some crazy things but I think this wins so far. Very friendly and nice girl but a strange atmosphere so I raced away from them after we shook hands. Crazy.
Oh and there is a guy doing the Camino on a unicycle, I am yet to meet him though.
Bit of a long one again, they usually are when I am in good spirits but I apologise. Keep the comments coming.
@ksam - I intend to do just that thank you. I also expect to be walking with socks on my hands in two days time. I can't help but think back to one of your previous comments when you said that I would be seeing Nadia again. Who knew that you would be so right, David too.
I woke up at 6:00 this morning as breakfast was at 6:30. I hadn't slept very well, I think it was a combination between a very full stomach and so much exercise. My legs felt fine though, the odd slight ache but nothing as bad as I should be feeling. I just hope it is not a case of the aches hitting me a day late, this would not be fun heading up O'Cebreiro. That said, I don't mind the ascents as you can really throw yourself into the mountain and speed up them. With the descent you have to take it a lot slower as the path is usually quite dangerous, this kills the thighs and knees.
Breakfast was ok, 3euro for two pieces of toast and a coffee. I was just grateful to get something inside of me though as I felt that my stomach had made light work of last nights haul of food in order to repair my poor legs. Again I had jam, really starting to get a taste for all this weird food now. I like to try more things now, who would have thought that salad wouldn't kill me. Crazy.
So I set off in the dark, making myself go slow despite feeling good. I knew that I owed that much to my body after yesterday. The waymarks out of Molinaseca were terrible and I had a hard time, as did others, of getting out of the place. Finally I was on the way into Ponferrada, slowly but surely. Paul and Brian passed me, telling me that I needed to up the pace. Brian said he was 65 and was flying. Paul said that my 23 year old knees must be feeling it after yesterday, he tapped on his special knee mechanism (he has no knee cartilage and it keeps the bones locked in place) and said not to worry as they have the technology to keep me going. They are really friendly guys. I love Americans but I must admit that I think the Canadians are just begining to edge it, sorry if there are any Americans reading! Blame the very anti-english American I met on the camino, the only person so far I have not liked.
Anyway. I resisted the urge to rise to the bait and I continued slowly. I was proud of my ability to do this, I find that I surprise myself in someway each day. Some small like this, some huge like yesterday. Ponferrada was terrible to navigate and I got slightly lost, bluddy big citites, but I found out later that I wasn't the only one. I stopped for a coke as I needed the toilet, my choice of establishment was possibly not the best as it was slightly too posh for a pilgrim such as me. I didn't care but I got the feeling that my presence was not cared for. I finally fought my way out of the city and someone caught me up, David. We then walked the rest of the day together, finally catching up. It was a lovely walk and great fun. He had been walking with a girl from Brighton who I met in Roncesvalles, which seems another lifetime ago. He is good fun, and he made me laugh by picking any and every fruit off the trees he walks past. Despite it being against my morals David seemed quite happy to do it. I think he ate a grocery stores worth of fruit including some very strange apple things which I suspect were not apples at all. We stopped for lunch in another lovely town, I had a pizza to completely contrast against yesterdays meager lunch.
The walk was easy enough, a few ascents and descents, but these molehills were nothing compared to that which I battled yesterday. Today was probably my 3rd favourite walk so far. Yesterdays two stages were my favourite, then the Pyrenees which I split into two stages but am counting as one. The scenery was beautiful, wine fields for as far as the eye could see and mountains providing a suitably breathtaking backdrop. I just couldn't stop commenting on the view, it really was beautiful. I have a feeling that these last stages are going to be the best of the Camino if they continue the precident. I am very excited to walk them and I have decided to stick to the stages in my book now, take it slow and really enjoy the walks. 8 stages till I reach Santiago, so close I can smell the incense.
Villafranca is a gorgeous town, another of my favourites along the camino I think. The albergue we are staying at is very clean and modern but slightly lame. There are no hand washing facilities for clothes, only a 7 euro charge to have your stuff cleaned. I decided to stick one to the man and walk for a 2nd day in a smelly kit. The crowds of the Camino shall part before me like the red sea before moses. Also no internet so I have scoured the town for internet just to let you all know that I managed todays long stage ok after yesterday. I know one person who likes to worry, so consider this entry just for you. The funny part was somehow entering Villafranca before Paul and Brian after all their comments about me being too slow today.
The walk tomorrow takes me up to 1,300meters and over a total distance of 30.1km or 18.7miles and the next day takes us down again. Don't worry you will not be logging on to see that I have done the mountain in one day and done 32miles. I am looking forward to this walk, the views should be amazing. Tomorrow we enter Galacia, people have told me that this is where the magic on the Camino begins. For me it has already begun, I am not sure that I can expect much more than I have already witnessed.
I plan to walk alone again tomorrow, probably meeting David at the end of the day. I have a feeling that the next 7 days are going to be quite special. Well saying that, the next 11 days as I have worked out that by cutting two stages I will just about be able to afford to go to Finisterre and Muxia. I just can't get enough of this walking business now, maybe I should walk home! Very excited to be able to walk to the sea, my boots which were dark blue are now red with dust. I love these boots but they shall need to be thrown away at the end of the Camino as I have already worn the heels down to the inside of the shoe. I must be a sloppy walker. I plan to buy myself a pair of the same boots though, really have done me well. I actually decided to send an email to North Face to congratulate them on a good pair of boots. Maybe if I mention the heel ware they will send me a free pair?
Oh I also forgot to mention an experience I had yesterday. As I was walking up the mountain in a solitary part of the path I rounded a corner to find a girl walking in her underwear. She was walking in front of me for a good few minutes and I was desperately trying to inspect the floor before me. They then stopped and she was very friendly, she was from Scotland. We talked briefly and I had to have the strenth of a saint to maintain eye contact with her, lets just say that walking in underwear does a very bad job of keeping everything where it should be. I have seen some people walking in some crazy things but I think this wins so far. Very friendly and nice girl but a strange atmosphere so I raced away from them after we shook hands. Crazy.
Oh and there is a guy doing the Camino on a unicycle, I am yet to meet him though.
Bit of a long one again, they usually are when I am in good spirits but I apologise. Keep the comments coming.
@ksam - I intend to do just that thank you. I also expect to be walking with socks on my hands in two days time. I can't help but think back to one of your previous comments when you said that I would be seeing Nadia again. Who knew that you would be so right, David too.
Thursday 13 October 2011
A truly magical day on the Camino - 47.9km / 29.7miles to Molinaseca
Yes you read that right and before you start telling me how I should slow down and not over do it (which is all great advice) I don't want to hear it. I feel like I am walking on air tonight, stiffly but still walking. I understand that it is important that I don't do too much, too fast else I will injure myself and that would be a tradgedy when I am so near to the end. Though I decided that if the unthinkable should happen then I would just buy a bike or some other form of transport, nothing is stopping me from getting to Santiago. So save all of your well meant and sensible advice, trust me I had it running through my head all day already. So now that is out of the way, I shall explain todays adventure. Really was unlike any other day so far, and not one I shall forget in a hurry.
So I started out in Astorga at 7:30 after a breakfast buffet which put some wind in my sales, I find coffee does that to me. I was expecting to go no further than Rabanal del Camino 13.3miles and I started out very slowly. My right knee was giving me a bit of jip so I decided today was going to be a slow walk. After 5.3km someone came running up behind me, "Did you lose something?" a voice said in a German accent. It was Nadia. I couldn't believe it. She had split the two stages that I combined how I was going to before I opted to just go all the way to Leon. It was such a surprise to see her again and not only that she had found something of mine that I had accidently dropped a day ago, my camera case. I had noticed but decided to not go back, she had come along some time later and found it. She was doing well but she was infested with bedbugs and was covered in bites. I felt so sorry for her. She has thrown away her sleeping bag as despite chemical treatment and washing her bag she is still being eaten alive. I took this chance to do what I am not very good at and express my feelings. I explained how bad I felt after we barely said goodbye and told her how I find it hard to express how I feel, she said I was silly and I should have just said it. I explained why I wanted to go alone and she said she understood it and she herself sees now that she was holding me back and not letting me go. I was happy with this though as familiarity brings security so we held onto each other. It seems that since we split up that both of our Camino's have truly begun. We talked about a lot of coincidences such as how she had met the guy that lives by me and he had mentioned me, and other such things. I also assured her that I had a feeling that we would be seeing David, if not before Santiago then in the city itself. We walked for some time together until she stopped to have a drink and I continued. We said goodbye as if we may never see each other again, I said that I knew we would but she insisted just incase. I got talking to another australian which was nice and I joined him and his group for a drink, strangely one of htem was a guy from Ireland who I had sat next to on the train to St. Jean. The other Australian I had met came by and joined us too.
I got to Rabanal 13.3km for about 11:30 which was far too early to stop so I decided to continue to the next place. I had a bite to eat and a drink and then continued. I decided that if I stopped in the place 5.8km after Rabanal then I would pass the Cruz de Ferro in the dark, this is the place where people bring a stone from home to place at the cross to reprosent their sins or something. I brought a stone from the top of Scafell Pike. I had met Nadia again and we took each others picture here and then I continued. The next place to stay was just a matress on the floor and a hole in the ground for a toilet, very basic so I continued. By this point I had done all the climbing up the mountain and I still felt great, I was hardly hanging around either. I got to Acebo and decided that I felt strong enough to go to the next place, the last place before Molinaseca. My knee had stopped hurting as soon as I met Nadia for the first time and I had felt so strong all day. I decided that I would keep going until I felt that I was too tired to continue, this took me all the way to Riego de Ambros a total of 42.2km and although I was tiring now I felt that I could do the last 5.7km to Molinaseca. This last stretch was all down hill, well 14.2km of it was and parts of it were very steep. It was a real tough stretch to Molinaseca and I felt that I was near to done but I kept on and finally I reached the town. A lovely place, one of the most beautiful places I have come to on the Camino. I saw the two Canadians Brian and Paul who had walked 30 odd Km today and they were amazed when I told them where I had come from.
I got in to the albergue that I had chosen from my book and who is sitting outside with a glass of wine, David. I couldn't believe it and neither could he. He especially couldn't believe how far I had come. We had a brief talk and I told him that I would fill him in after my shower. Unfortunately it was time for dinner and he hadn't booked a menu here so he went into town. We agreed to stay at the same albergue tomorrow so we can catch up. It is weird that although we only knew each other for 3 days it is very good to see him again and I am looking forward to catching up with him. I was absolutely starving, I hadn't eaten properly for such a big walk. I ate lentil soup which was gorgeous, salad - yes salad, tomato, lettuce, carrot, you name it I ate it and it was actually alright with a bit of oil and vinegar on, lots of spaghetti, pineapple and peach. I am stuffed now but I really needed to eat so much, should give me energy for tomorrow.
As I got in so late, just after 6pm, I did not have chance to wash my clothes so I shall be walking in a smelly kit tomorrow. I plan to take it slow tomorrow and enjoy the day, walking 19miles to Villafranca del Bierzo. I doubt the walk will be as beautiful as today though, it really was the most beautiful walk I have done yet. The latter parts gave me a chance to be alone which was lovely and the path led through bushes and trees, it really felt like an adventure or exploration. The scenery was lovely too, rolling mountains and forrests with an autumn colour gradient. Absolutely gorgeous walk and despite the hardship I really enjoyed myself.
The hospitalerio called me crazy when he asked where I had started from today, I don't see the problem if I was sure my body could do it. I will pay tomorrow though with stiff knees and aches but I will take it slow and rest often. Not sure if there is much that I can't do when I set my mind to it, still trying to decide if I am strong or just too damn stubborn to quit.
So no pain, just very stiff. I am off to give myself a massage of the lower limbs and to stretch my muscles. Very tired but absolutely over the moon with todays experience. Up and down 1,505m mountain and 29.7miles. Slightly impressed with myself. I remember struggling to do 17miles to Larassona and feeling worse than this at the end of it. How far I have come. I think I am starting to get the hunger for a physical challenge, what next after the Camino? No greater feeling than achieving something you never thought yourself capable of. I am beginning to wonder what aren't I capable of.
So I started out in Astorga at 7:30 after a breakfast buffet which put some wind in my sales, I find coffee does that to me. I was expecting to go no further than Rabanal del Camino 13.3miles and I started out very slowly. My right knee was giving me a bit of jip so I decided today was going to be a slow walk. After 5.3km someone came running up behind me, "Did you lose something?" a voice said in a German accent. It was Nadia. I couldn't believe it. She had split the two stages that I combined how I was going to before I opted to just go all the way to Leon. It was such a surprise to see her again and not only that she had found something of mine that I had accidently dropped a day ago, my camera case. I had noticed but decided to not go back, she had come along some time later and found it. She was doing well but she was infested with bedbugs and was covered in bites. I felt so sorry for her. She has thrown away her sleeping bag as despite chemical treatment and washing her bag she is still being eaten alive. I took this chance to do what I am not very good at and express my feelings. I explained how bad I felt after we barely said goodbye and told her how I find it hard to express how I feel, she said I was silly and I should have just said it. I explained why I wanted to go alone and she said she understood it and she herself sees now that she was holding me back and not letting me go. I was happy with this though as familiarity brings security so we held onto each other. It seems that since we split up that both of our Camino's have truly begun. We talked about a lot of coincidences such as how she had met the guy that lives by me and he had mentioned me, and other such things. I also assured her that I had a feeling that we would be seeing David, if not before Santiago then in the city itself. We walked for some time together until she stopped to have a drink and I continued. We said goodbye as if we may never see each other again, I said that I knew we would but she insisted just incase. I got talking to another australian which was nice and I joined him and his group for a drink, strangely one of htem was a guy from Ireland who I had sat next to on the train to St. Jean. The other Australian I had met came by and joined us too.
I got to Rabanal 13.3km for about 11:30 which was far too early to stop so I decided to continue to the next place. I had a bite to eat and a drink and then continued. I decided that if I stopped in the place 5.8km after Rabanal then I would pass the Cruz de Ferro in the dark, this is the place where people bring a stone from home to place at the cross to reprosent their sins or something. I brought a stone from the top of Scafell Pike. I had met Nadia again and we took each others picture here and then I continued. The next place to stay was just a matress on the floor and a hole in the ground for a toilet, very basic so I continued. By this point I had done all the climbing up the mountain and I still felt great, I was hardly hanging around either. I got to Acebo and decided that I felt strong enough to go to the next place, the last place before Molinaseca. My knee had stopped hurting as soon as I met Nadia for the first time and I had felt so strong all day. I decided that I would keep going until I felt that I was too tired to continue, this took me all the way to Riego de Ambros a total of 42.2km and although I was tiring now I felt that I could do the last 5.7km to Molinaseca. This last stretch was all down hill, well 14.2km of it was and parts of it were very steep. It was a real tough stretch to Molinaseca and I felt that I was near to done but I kept on and finally I reached the town. A lovely place, one of the most beautiful places I have come to on the Camino. I saw the two Canadians Brian and Paul who had walked 30 odd Km today and they were amazed when I told them where I had come from.
I got in to the albergue that I had chosen from my book and who is sitting outside with a glass of wine, David. I couldn't believe it and neither could he. He especially couldn't believe how far I had come. We had a brief talk and I told him that I would fill him in after my shower. Unfortunately it was time for dinner and he hadn't booked a menu here so he went into town. We agreed to stay at the same albergue tomorrow so we can catch up. It is weird that although we only knew each other for 3 days it is very good to see him again and I am looking forward to catching up with him. I was absolutely starving, I hadn't eaten properly for such a big walk. I ate lentil soup which was gorgeous, salad - yes salad, tomato, lettuce, carrot, you name it I ate it and it was actually alright with a bit of oil and vinegar on, lots of spaghetti, pineapple and peach. I am stuffed now but I really needed to eat so much, should give me energy for tomorrow.
As I got in so late, just after 6pm, I did not have chance to wash my clothes so I shall be walking in a smelly kit tomorrow. I plan to take it slow tomorrow and enjoy the day, walking 19miles to Villafranca del Bierzo. I doubt the walk will be as beautiful as today though, it really was the most beautiful walk I have done yet. The latter parts gave me a chance to be alone which was lovely and the path led through bushes and trees, it really felt like an adventure or exploration. The scenery was lovely too, rolling mountains and forrests with an autumn colour gradient. Absolutely gorgeous walk and despite the hardship I really enjoyed myself.
The hospitalerio called me crazy when he asked where I had started from today, I don't see the problem if I was sure my body could do it. I will pay tomorrow though with stiff knees and aches but I will take it slow and rest often. Not sure if there is much that I can't do when I set my mind to it, still trying to decide if I am strong or just too damn stubborn to quit.
So no pain, just very stiff. I am off to give myself a massage of the lower limbs and to stretch my muscles. Very tired but absolutely over the moon with todays experience. Up and down 1,505m mountain and 29.7miles. Slightly impressed with myself. I remember struggling to do 17miles to Larassona and feeling worse than this at the end of it. How far I have come. I think I am starting to get the hunger for a physical challenge, what next after the Camino? No greater feeling than achieving something you never thought yourself capable of. I am beginning to wonder what aren't I capable of.
Wednesday 12 October 2011
Astorga 19.4miles
After I did my blog yesterday I relaxed in the garden of the albergue, oh how a beer would have suited the weather and the scenery. I had a gorgeous ice lolly and it was so good that I had another right after. Three Canadian women stayed at the albergue too, they came later in the evening and had their own room. They started in Leon and I gave them some advice and slightly scared them by telling them about the next few stages, they were really nice. The albergue hospitalerio was such a nice lady, kept returning my smiles and just being really friendly. She asked if I wanted to soak my feet and I said no they are fine and just my muscles ache, she then insisted that I take this cream to rub into my muscles before I go to bed and when I wake up. Later when I was eating the pilgrims menu she heard me coughing and brought over a shot to help with my chest, had to turn it down unfortunately. The pilgrims menu was very odd, it was described as traditional. Starters were stewed vegetables, peas and ham or green beans. I went for the stewed vegetables which was nice enough apart from the random fish like meat that was mixed in. I swear there were the heads of some weird eel or something thrown in for good measure. The mains were eel, veal or meat balls. I went for the meat balls and they were lovely, nice chips too.
So I got into bed for about 8:30pm but I found it hard to drop off as id had a nap earlier. It was great having my own room but I think there was football on as I could hear "GOOOOOOOOOAAAAALL GOOOOOAAAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL!" as the continental commentators get a bit excited. I managed to drop off though and woke up at 6:30am, having a half an hour lie in as breakfast wasn't till 7am. Once I was all packed and ready to go the place was still all shut up so I headed off on an empty stomach. I also needed to fill my water bladder at the fountain outside the albergue but it was dry. I was again walking in the dark but the moon was so bright it lit my way, it was such a lovely walk and I flew through the first 5.8km. After 9.6km I found a water fountain and filled up my bag, the australian was also sat nearby and he insisted that I had his bananna as I had missed breakfast. Nothing but lovely people along the camino. After 4.5km more I stopped for a coffee con leche and a croissant with butter and jam, that really got me going. I then continued for the last 16.2km without a break but I felt good. There were two small climbs and a couple of small descents but nothing too major. There was also a really nice girl with a south african accent in the middle of nowhere giving pilgrims juice and some food. I had some lemonade which was gorgeous once you ignored the dead flies floating in it and I had a wholemeal biscuit too, I left a donation and headed off.
Astorga is nice enough, pretty dead though. Apparently it is a public holiday today so lots of places are closed. The albergue is really nice, I have a single bed which is great as it means no climbing into a bunk bed or hacing someone above me. Once I had washed my clothes and myself I went to grab some food, lots of places had finished until 7pm which sucked. I did find one place that serves all day though. One question though. Why is it always so bluddy hard to get just a plate of chips in Spain? I am under the impression that chips are 'Patatas fritas' please correct me if I am wrong, which may very well be the problem here. The first time, I forget where, they bought me some crisps so I just ate them and said nothing. At this place I had a terribly confusing conversation with the barmaid which saw me ordering small roast potatos covered in alioli, and I mean "would you like some roast potatos with your alioli?" covered. Still they were very nice and I am glad I opted for the GRANDE helping, I love garlic so it was all good but even this was too much for me so I had to scrape most of the sauce off. I feel sorry for the people in the beds next to me because I can still taste the stuff now.
Today's 19miles was easy enough, after doing 23miles 19 was never going to give me any problems, well at least not mentally. I did however at one point get random shooting pains in my right knee, it was fine when walking but killed when I stopped and began again. It is all good now though, just slightly tired legs. I am ready for the 13miles of ascent tomorrow. I am really liking these solitary walks again as I am free to do what I want and I can go at whatever pace my legs feel they can manage. I also have started taking a lot more photo's again now I am by myself.
So not much else to report here. Still not sure about Finisterre and Muxia which would be a further 4 days and apparently the best walks of the whole Camino. The thing that is putting me off is the price of my plane tickets as they will be 200euros rather than 80euros (that is bags included) if I don't head home straight away. I need to check out my financial situation and make a decision. I am in no real rush to get home as once I am home the job hunting begins so I should really make the most of this.
That is it, nothing else comes to mind. I am going to put my feet up and decide where to have dinner. Apparently a posh hotel/restaurant does a pilgrims menu but I am not sure if it is a good idea that I go there as I make pilgrims look like they are black tie smart. The hair and face fuzz situation is a bit out of control and my clothes just seem to get filthier with each wash. Then there is the small matter of my sandals, or rather the feet that wear them and the small fact that they resemble those that belong to a leper. At least I smell good, I seem to get through a bar of soap a week and nowhere is open here to get a new one so tomorrow I wash with a paper thin bar.
I am rambling about nothing now so time to go.
So I got into bed for about 8:30pm but I found it hard to drop off as id had a nap earlier. It was great having my own room but I think there was football on as I could hear "GOOOOOOOOOAAAAALL GOOOOOAAAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL GOAL!" as the continental commentators get a bit excited. I managed to drop off though and woke up at 6:30am, having a half an hour lie in as breakfast wasn't till 7am. Once I was all packed and ready to go the place was still all shut up so I headed off on an empty stomach. I also needed to fill my water bladder at the fountain outside the albergue but it was dry. I was again walking in the dark but the moon was so bright it lit my way, it was such a lovely walk and I flew through the first 5.8km. After 9.6km I found a water fountain and filled up my bag, the australian was also sat nearby and he insisted that I had his bananna as I had missed breakfast. Nothing but lovely people along the camino. After 4.5km more I stopped for a coffee con leche and a croissant with butter and jam, that really got me going. I then continued for the last 16.2km without a break but I felt good. There were two small climbs and a couple of small descents but nothing too major. There was also a really nice girl with a south african accent in the middle of nowhere giving pilgrims juice and some food. I had some lemonade which was gorgeous once you ignored the dead flies floating in it and I had a wholemeal biscuit too, I left a donation and headed off.
Astorga is nice enough, pretty dead though. Apparently it is a public holiday today so lots of places are closed. The albergue is really nice, I have a single bed which is great as it means no climbing into a bunk bed or hacing someone above me. Once I had washed my clothes and myself I went to grab some food, lots of places had finished until 7pm which sucked. I did find one place that serves all day though. One question though. Why is it always so bluddy hard to get just a plate of chips in Spain? I am under the impression that chips are 'Patatas fritas' please correct me if I am wrong, which may very well be the problem here. The first time, I forget where, they bought me some crisps so I just ate them and said nothing. At this place I had a terribly confusing conversation with the barmaid which saw me ordering small roast potatos covered in alioli, and I mean "would you like some roast potatos with your alioli?" covered. Still they were very nice and I am glad I opted for the GRANDE helping, I love garlic so it was all good but even this was too much for me so I had to scrape most of the sauce off. I feel sorry for the people in the beds next to me because I can still taste the stuff now.
Today's 19miles was easy enough, after doing 23miles 19 was never going to give me any problems, well at least not mentally. I did however at one point get random shooting pains in my right knee, it was fine when walking but killed when I stopped and began again. It is all good now though, just slightly tired legs. I am ready for the 13miles of ascent tomorrow. I am really liking these solitary walks again as I am free to do what I want and I can go at whatever pace my legs feel they can manage. I also have started taking a lot more photo's again now I am by myself.
So not much else to report here. Still not sure about Finisterre and Muxia which would be a further 4 days and apparently the best walks of the whole Camino. The thing that is putting me off is the price of my plane tickets as they will be 200euros rather than 80euros (that is bags included) if I don't head home straight away. I need to check out my financial situation and make a decision. I am in no real rush to get home as once I am home the job hunting begins so I should really make the most of this.
That is it, nothing else comes to mind. I am going to put my feet up and decide where to have dinner. Apparently a posh hotel/restaurant does a pilgrims menu but I am not sure if it is a good idea that I go there as I make pilgrims look like they are black tie smart. The hair and face fuzz situation is a bit out of control and my clothes just seem to get filthier with each wash. Then there is the small matter of my sandals, or rather the feet that wear them and the small fact that they resemble those that belong to a leper. At least I smell good, I seem to get through a bar of soap a week and nowhere is open here to get a new one so tomorrow I wash with a paper thin bar.
I am rambling about nothing now so time to go.
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